WORLI KOLIWADA—A WORLD WITHIN WORLD

Most are overawed by the extravagance of skyscrapers standing impossibly tall at Worli, but if they just veer off the motorable passage into a modest and overcrowded bylane, which can be accessed only by foot or two-wheelers—they’ll discover a Mumbai that is less seen and experienced—Worli Koliwada. Ironically, this is the true "Amchi Mumbai", which is now besieged by so-called symbols of development. However, it grows ever more resilient to exist and sustain its identity against all odds.

Worli Koliwada exists in a different time zone. It is one of the oldest settlements of Mumbai. It contradicts and contrasts the privileged world it is juxtaposed with. That is also the beauty of Mumbai that makes way for past and future to coexist.

The entrance to Worli Koliwada is unassuming. As one gingerly presses on ahead, a different world gradually begins to unravel. It’s impossible to move without shoulders kissing and shoving against the other. Women are sitting at their doorsteps jutting into the bylane. Small shops, hawkers, locals shopping and gossiping, children playing with abandon, two-wheelers in both directions passing by at great speed, people hurrying on foot—it’s all happening in this narrow lane that is the lifeline of the village. As we move ahead, the lane becomes narrower. One may get the impression that perhaps there’s nothing up ahead, but turning back will be the biggest mistake of life. Keep going wherever the path leads. Soon it will open up into one of the most breathtaking views in the world.

First, one would come across Worli Fort. It’s a small fort built on an elevation by the British in 1675. Delightfully, the fort is well restored. There is a small temple in the premises of the fort built by the locals. Interestingly, there is also a gym right next to the temple where local boys indulge in bodybuilding. However, the most exciting part of the fort is the magnificent view it offers from its ramparts. One can only imagine how it must have been during its prime. Now, one can see multi-storeyed concretes that are literally touching the sky—looming over modest settlement at ground level. It provides an unbelievable impression of stark contradiction. One can lose perspective or gain a new one. But it’s awe inspiring, nevertheless.?

However, once we climb down from the fort and pass on towards waterfront, the view is a gorgeous life-size canvas that showcases one of the most prominent symbols of modernity in Mumbai—the Worli Bridge in the background—contrasting modest everyday life of Koli community in the foreground. It’s an open community space. Locals shoot the breeze, park and repair their boats, set off on their boats into the sea and return back with their catch, youngsters play cricket and make reels for social media, elders find a quiet corner (there are plenty) to introspect (perhaps wondering if the view was better with or without Worli bridge). The location is also a big a hit with Bollywood. It has already appeared in various movies—not just Hindi, but other languages as well. And the movie shoots are a vital source of income for the community.

Primarily, Worli Koliwada is a village of Koli community or Kolis, which is a fishing community. They are the original residents of Mumbai. Over the years, non-Kolis have also made it their home and they have been accepted with open arms. They stay together, support each other through thick and thin and celebrate each other’s festivals. Even within Koli community, there are some who are Hindus and some are Christians. Christian households acknowledge their Hindu antecedents by worshipping Hindu Gods along with their Christian customs. A church at the lands end exemplifies equality, diversity and co-existence. They have societies, schools and health centres, which makes Worli Koliwada a self-sustainable microcosm.

The location is a real estate super prime, but strong community compels builders to steer clear of it, lest they find themselves in a political quagmire.?

Since, Worli bridge has come up, locals complain it has had a drastic impact on fishing. Traditional occupation hasn’t remained as promising as it was. The younger generation has already started looking beyond their traditional roots. It is unfortunate, but inevitable. For better or worse—changing times will always have unavoidable trade-offs. Balancing culture and tradition against rapid change is always going to be a struggle. And the community is sincerely hard at work to retain the essence of their existence, while moving with the times.?