The World of Fabrics: History of Brocade

From ancient origins and secret silkworm methods, brocade has always been a sought-after material. Tracing its history demonstrates a rich cultural past and hints at why this fabric is making a comeback.

In many cultures, Brocade weaving is classed as a highly-skilled form of art due to the delicate detailing and intricate patterns that are created through weaving silk threads with silver or gold threads. In fact, the name itself is derived from the Italian word broccato, which translates to ‘embossed cloth’. Richly decorative, this fabric has been used for centuries to adorn refined evening wear, costumes, tapestries, and fascinating pieces of upholstery.

STEALING SECRETS?

Originating in China – whose closely guarded secret of how to use silkworms to create silk was desired by many – brocade was one of the very few luxury fabrics chiefly reserved for nobility in the Far East. Whilst brocade fabric was used in Byzantium, their lack of silk initially meant that they wove the fabric from linen and wool. This changed when the Byzantines started trading with China via the Silk Road in the 5th Century, receiving raw silk and silk threads to transform into decadent fabrics that could be traded across the world. Following the Byzantine ‘acquisition’ of the secret to silk-making in the 6th Century (they smuggled silkworms and silkworm eggs from China), the Early Middle Ages saw the Byzantine Empire take centre-stage in the production of brocade fabrics. Eventually, the knowledge behind silk making spread further and, by the Late Middle Ages, Italy had become the main producer of expensive brocade fabrics, with monarchs and nobility from across Europe coveting luxurious Italian silk brocade for their opulent clothing. The fabric was particularly important in the Italian Renaissance, as artistic innovation led to more intricate, complex weaving patterns that were highly regarded in Europe for their exquisite beauty. To honour the trade link existing between Italy and the Far East, the patterns embroidered into the fabric retained vestiges of Chinese, Indian, and Persian designs.

MAKING IT MODERN?

Originally, brocade was made purely of silk fibres, using the technique of ‘jacquarding’ – a process where a background weave (usually silk) is imprinted with a tightly woven design over the top to create the beautiful appearance of an embossed patterning. The embroidered pattern on the top of the silk is usually created with silver or gold threading, which gives the fabric a very luxurious feel. The use of brocade fabrics seems to have evolved somewhat over time and, although still used for costumes and evening dresses, it is now commonly seen on upholstery. This is because brocade is a crisp, heavy fabric that doesn’t tend to drape very well, thus making it perfect for decorating furniture; it holds its shape firmly, as well as looking luxurious with its heavy weight and detailed patterning. In the Middle Ages, brocade fabric was very occasionally festooned in precious and semiprecious stones to emphasise its richness. This fashion has been replaced by sequins and beading in modern times, achieving a similar glimmering look but with a far cheaper alternative.

Lauded by interior and fashion designers alike, brocade fabrics have made their way into various trends over the past few years, incorporating a range of floral patterns as well as traditional Indian, Persian, and Chinese designs to suit a range of tastes and pay homage to its origins. This merging of historical and modern elements has been delightfully depicted by various fashion houses, including Dolce & Gabbana.

FROM ONE LOOM to ANOTHER?

Originally, brocade would have been made by using a draw loom, allowing each thread to be controlled separately. This method would have taken a seamstress many hours of work, weaving the silk and adding texture to intricate designs. Brocade fabrics are now more commonly woven on a jacquard loom, a much easier way to create many complex designs (and tapestry look-a-likes!) using the original jacquarding technique. Designed in the late 19th Century, the revolutionary jacquard loom made brocade weaving more accessible, due to its ease of use in comparison with the old technique. Surprisingly though, despite being made on a jacquard loom, brocade is not, in fact, a jacquard fabric. This is primarily because other jacquard fabrics, such as damask, are reversible, whereas brocade fabric is not – the back of brocade often features floating threads.

With a long and rich journey that has seen it traverse through some of the most fascinating, creative, ostentatious empires in history, it is no surprise that brocade is still a popular choice for haute-couture fashion and interior design today. Although some patterns may have become Westernised over time, and the method of production much less time-consuming, brocade fabric has lost none of its original beauty and elegance.

Have a look in our?boutique ?to see the ways that we have used this gorgeous fabric in some of our clothes!??

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Since its establishment, ‘Olga Anderson’ has strongly believed in promoting our core values of women empowerment and celebration of femininity. Our designs create not only a luxurious look but aspire to enrich the beauty and confidence of our incredible clients. We have been incredibly blessed to receive love and support from these women who are a true inspiration for our work.

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