Without torque wrench, how do you tighten wheel lug nuts?
If you have to use a lug wrench, do this as a temporary measure (i.e.: changing a flat on the side of the road). As soon as possible, you need to have those lug nuts correctly tightened!
Once upon a time, virtually all cars came with steel wheels and had drum brakes all the way around. With those, as long as you didn’t leave any of the nuts loose, you were generally all right.
Nowadays, however, the majority of cars have alloy wheels and most also have four wheel disc brakes.
Alloy wheels expand and contract at a different rate than iron and steel do, and after 50 to 100 miles lug nuts need to be checked and/or tightened, commonly known in the industry as ‘re-torqued’. This is because they?can?loosen after the first time! Additionally, unevenly tightened lug nuts can distort brake rotors (the ‘discs’ in ‘disc brakes’) so you get a noisy wobble when you step on the brake pedal.
You don’t need a great torque wrench for lug nuts. The precise torque isn’t as important as making sure that all the lugs on a wheel are tightened to the same degree so the load is evenly applied. For most cars, I use 90 lbs.-feet, and 100 on light trucks using a slightly larger diameter lug. On a smaller car I might use 85 pounds feet. That 90 lbs.-ft. figure is assuming your lug nuts and wrench are 19mm or 3/4″. A 1/2″ drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight or a discount store should be fine for wheel lugs, though I’d suggest getting a higher quality one for most anything else. A ‘click’ type would be best, since it can be hard to read the scale on one that isn’t when doing wheel lugs. Just be sure that you STOP applying pressure when you hear one click. If you hear two clicks before you stop pushing or pulling, you’ve overshot your desired torque. Do be sure to reset your torque wrench to either ‘STOP’ or a low setting before you put it away in order to maintain some semblance of calibration.
Above article quotes from Mr. Tim Gordon
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