Why UP(Uttar Pradesh) is Down: A story from Varanasi

"What are you doing here? Where are you going?", asked a policeman curtly.

I was out on my usual late-night stroll at the nearby Assi ghat(bank of a river), in Varanasi. During my walk, I saw a group of artists making a flower rangoli, an intricate pattern on a floor using flower petals. A few of these artists collaborate with my start-up, so I thought of greeting them.

"I live in this area. I am on a casual walk. The artists you see over there are known to me. I am just going to say hello", I replied.

"You can't go. Walk somewhere else. Preparations are going on", replied the policeman.

"Why? If you want to restrict, put up a sign here", I said to the policeman.

"Go somewhere else. Don't stay here", said the policeman rudely.

I returned to my house, bitter with this experience. I wrote about this incident to the concerned govt officer. The officer is a young guy who has studied at one of the IITs, premier technical institutes of India. I had interacted with him on a few occasions earlier, hence knew him personally.

He responded, saying that this may be due to the girls' safety. A minister is visiting tomorrow, hence the security was there. He suggested to not mind this incident.

I returned to Varanasi in 2015 and co-founded a start-up, working to improve career opportunities of visual arts students from Tier 2/3 cities. When this incident happened, I remembered an experience from 2011 in New York City.

Osama Bin Laden was killed by the US forces on May 2, 2011. At that time, I was working, at one of the top Investment banks in the world, as a software consultant. My office was right across the site where the World Trade Center building used to exist. New construction was ongoing there. The site also had a memorial for the victims of the tragic 9/11 incident. After the killing of Osama bin Laden, the then President of the USA, Barack Obama visited the memorial. When I got to know that President would visit, expecting additional security, I was mentally prepared for questioning or frisking by the authorities. 

I took my usual morning train and got down at the WTC station. I stepped out from an exit, which leads to a narrow alley adjoining the WTC site, connecting to the main avenue. My office was just right across the road. I had prepared my mind for any additional inquiry and had calmed myself. After all, the President was visiting the site and I was a foreigner working in the city. I came out, followed the road diversion of just a block, well-marked by notice signs, and reached my office. I saw a few more police officers than usual but no one stopped me or asked any questions. Notice boards were placed for route change, with proper markings, hence I didn't need to ask any questions. Later in the day, I had a few meetings at the World Financial Center, behind the site where President was visiting. Again, nobody stopped, frisked, or asked any questions. 

Imagine the contrast in the experience. My earlier experience, narrated in the beginning, wasn't a stray incident, where an overzealous administration ignores the "public" in the public place/property. A few times, I have been pushed aside on a busy road by a policeman, making way for govt officers rushing to nearby temples. Witnessing government officials use administrative privileges when visiting the nearby Assi Ghat on a regular evening for a family outing is a common occurrence. All this in addition to the general disregard of the professional niceties one experiences while meeting government officials.

As this article narrates, Uttar Pradesh is a laggard in social and economic progress when compared to other Indian states. Before the pandemic hit, as mentioned here, the unemployment rate in Uttar Pradesh was higher than the national average. This report by Asian Development Bank highlights that the per capita income of Uttar Pradesh was 50% of the national average in 2017/18. The state needs businesses and investments to progress. Successive governments have spent hundreds of crores on organizing summits to woo investors.

But the question is, are those investors who are used to governance and administrative experiences in the places like Silicon Valley, New York or other European cities are going to tolerate feudal and regressive diktats of administration? Will they bear the experiences of administrative callousness and curtness of Government offices?

I am not done yet with this city. In the past 2 years, supported by supporting friends and a caring family, I have started another business in an even poorer district in the adjoining state of Bihar. But, after the incident narrated above, I have stopped suggesting others to start a business here, Earlier, I would write to investors, Ivy-league professors to visit the city and interact with other businesses. Now, I don't. 

I feel an obligation to live in Varanasi and work locally to improve in any small way I can. I chose to leave the comfort, wealth, and dignity that a well-paying job in major cities of developed countries provides and persevere amidst such the narrated humiliation and indignities. But, in absence of any emotional connection, will anyone else?

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