Beyond the Burrito: Unpacking Mesoamerican Food History

“A burrito is just an oversized, Americanized Taco.” “Flour tortillas have no place in traditional Mexican cuisine.”

I have felt sheepish opting for flour over corn tortillas. I have been confused ordering enchiladas in Mexico. Spoiler Alert: It is layered corn tortilla chips and not a tightly wrapped meat or cheese-filled tortilla.

But nothing is more controversial than the Burrito. Its origins are unclear. It is not just the size – which is suspiciously American. It is distinguishing it, by definition, from the taco. Most importantly, it is the reliance on the flour tortilla. Mesoamerican cuisines relied almost solely on corn or maze since 5,000 B.C. Flour or grain was not widely available until Spanish rule.

In the 1500s, the tradition of wrapping ingredients in a tortilla was noted among the Mayans and Pueblos. They would ground up corn by hand and fill it with beans,?peppers,?avocado,?chili,?and even seafood – ingredients changing with the season. It was about the size of your hand and resembled a thicker version of the modern-day corn tortilla, remarkably like Pupusas -- a staple in Modern-Day El Salvadoran cuisine.

Some argue this birthed both the burrito and the taco, making their origins synonymous. Others will kick you out of their house and tell you where to stuff your pupusa.

Damn the Colonizers

My thought is the Burrito represents a cultural journey and not a direct link.

In 1532, Francisco Pizarro conquered the Inca Empire, effectively beginning 300 years of Spanish rule. With colonialism, came fruit, cattle, chickens, European architecture, Catholicism, oppression and yes, an early version of the Flour Tortilla.

In 1600, in the regions of Sonora, Chihuahua, Durango and Sinaloa, a flour-based wrap emerged. It was more like a Middle Eastern Flatbread than Mayan and Pueblo fare. In Modern Day Sonoran cuisine, it is the Machaca -- shredded meat and other seasonal ingredients stuffed inside flatbread.

I argue this is the true parent of the Modern-Day burrito.

Hear me out.

Colonialism sparked a vast exchange of culinary ideas between Mexico and the Middle East.?Trade routes and cultural interactions, previously unheard of in the region, introduced new ingredients and cooking techniques. Look at the similarities between the pita and the pan araba of Northern Mexico.

In my opinion the Burrito emerged, even before it had a name, as a transitory necessity and output of changing cultures. It lived in parallel to traditional Mesoamerican cuisine. Traditional foods at the time were based on small meals, similar to street food. During colonization, they were forced to scatter, isolate and live differently.

• Fun Fact: Neither the taco nor burrito appear in the Spanish Dictionary until 300 years later.
• Taco shows up in 1894. Definition: Practice of wrapping food in a tortilla.
• Burrito shows up in 1915. Definition: Large tortilla rolled up with meat,?beans,?and other foods inside.

Food for Revolutionaries

And then there is the Legend of Juan “The Little Donkey” Mendez.

He was a street vendor in Ciudad Juarez during the Mexican Revolutionary War (1910-1920). He famously rode a donkey aka “Burro.”

As legend goes, when the much larger and decidedly better armed Federal soldiers trounced the rural Zapatistas, they would retreat to the hills and use the rugged landscape for cover. Mendez would hide provisions in long flour tortillas to keep them warm and ride throughout the hills to feed scattered and starving compatriots. The men, hearing the donkey, would emerge from the hills when he approached, receive sustenance, and return. So, he became known as the Little Donkey aka “Burrito.”

Oral histories change. No one has been able to confirm if Juan Mendez was a real person, or a Legend. But “Burrito” stuck and appeared contemporaneously in the Spanish dictionary during the Revolutionary war. Burrito became synonymous with sustenance, hard work and humility and the donkey, a symbol of perseverance and carrying burdens.

The Mission

The popularization of the burrito definitively occurred during the 50s and 60s in San Francisco’s Mission District. I cannot pretend to do that history any justice (the correlation between the Mission District and Mexican Revolutionary War) here. In short, it was a confluence of Mexican and Latin American migration, an industrial boon, cultural assimilation, and a whole lot of Bohemians. The Mission was a cultural cornerstone.

In 1961, El Faro opened its doors, featuring what they called the “Super Burrito.” Its interior was adorned with artwork of Zapatistas, Juan Mendez, and his famous donkey.

In 1972, La Cumbre Taqueria opened and coined the term the “Mission Burrito.”

About the burritos: Absolute behemoths. Oversized flour tortillas stuffed with beans, rice, meat, and endless possibilities. Whereas the original fare may have been the size of your hand, they are the size of a forearm. A meal unto itself.

Both restaurants are still alive today as is their familial – and friendly -- rivalry. La Cumbre Taqueria has multiple locations, Vegan and Gluten-Free options. El Faro, translation Lighthouse, maintains its flagship location and is still a gathering place for immigrants and activists, fostering solidarity and cultural connection.

In Mexican culture,?the burro transcends its animal form and is a symbol of national identity,?rural wisdom,?and humor. Burros, much like the Legend of Juan Mendez, played a crucial role in the Revolutionary War -- serving as transportation and companionship for rebel forces.?

Just like “the Burro,” the Burrito has had an incredible journey and remains one of the truest testaments to cultural and culinary fusion and adaptation.

Bon Appetit!

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