Where Was Eggplant Parmigiana Born?

Article by Rita Romano

A great classic Italian, eggplant Parmigiana, has uncertain origins. The name of this recipe does not come from the region of Parmigiano, but from the word palmigiana, meaning “shutters.” In 19th century Sicily, neighborhood homes included lots of shutters. Their wooden slats—one above another—is a reference to the layers of eggplant slices in this dish.

The origins of eggplant Parmigiana are controversial: the regions of Emilia-Romagna, Sicily, and Campania each claim to have invented the dish. Its history is complicated, like the layers of eggplant slices and olive oil, covered with tomatoes and mozzarella, that create a depth of flavor. The first appearance of eggplant Parmigiana was likely made between the second half of the 18th century and the first decades of the 19th century. The first printed recipe appeared in Ippolito Cavalcanti’s treatise “Practical Theoretical Cuisine,” published in Naples in 1839.

Although it is one of the richest and tastiest dishes in the Italian culinary tradition, there are as many variations of the recipe as there are cooks in Italy. Eggplant Parmigiana has so many variations worldwide that even the main ingredient—eggplant—can be replaced with chicken or veal. Chicken Parmesan is made with breaded chicken breast, tomato sauce, and a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese—the mozzarella can be kept in the ‘fridge along with the unused eggplant!

Here’s how to make a perfect Eggplant Parmigiana—without gluten.

Ingredients:

Olive oil - for frying

Eggplants/aubergine - 2 medium, peeled and sliced in ? inch thick rounds

Salt and freshly ground black pepper - to taste

Mozzarella - 10 oz.-fresh cow’s milk mozzarella, drained and cut into 1/4-inch pieces or shredded.

Rice flour - 1 cup

Eggs 4 beaten

Reggiano Parmesan cheese - 1 cup, freshly grated

Fresh Italian parsley leaves or basil - 2 tablespoons, chopped

Tomato sauce

Ingredients: Tomato Sauce:

Extra virgin olive oil - 3 Tbsp.

Sweet onion - ?, diced

Crushed tomatoes - 2 cans, 28 oz. each

Salt and freshly ground black pepper - to taste

Red pepper flakes - to taste

Fresh parsley - 1 Tbsp., chopped

Sauce Preparation

In a saucepan over medium heat, sauté onion in olive oil. Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper and red pepper. Cook for about 30 minutes; taste for additional seasoning. Add fresh parley and remove from heat.

Place the flour on a plate. Break the eggs into a wide bowl, whip with a fork, and add salt and pepper. Dredge slices of eggplant in flour and then dip into eggs, coating well. Pour oil in a large skillet, place on medium high heat. Fry eggplant until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Cover the bottom of a baking dish with sauce. Place a layer of eggplant slices slightly overlapped on top the sauce to cover the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle some of the mozzarella and parmesan cheese over the eggplant slices; add sauce and fresh parsley

Repeat with another layer of the eggplant, finish with mozzarella, parmesan cheese, sauce, and parsley. Bake in a preheated 400°F (200°C) oven for about 30-35 minutes. Allow to rest for about 15 minutes before serving

Rita Romano is a native of Bari, Italy and the youngest of ten children born into a family with a deep appreciation for the culinary arts. www.ritasrecipes.com.