...WHEN IN GUBBIO!
And yes, if you’re a Terence Hill fan, you’ll love that this is where Father Matteo came to life!
Friends:
Roman B. from Decatur, Alabama, asked about Gubbio in Umbria, Italy. I have been and continue to visit the ancient city regularly, and I have this information to share. The best places to dine and lodge are part of the Mencarelly Hospitality Group.
My favorite place to dine is La Taverna del Lupo.
And yes, you can mention my name! Chef Walter Potenza
And for the rest of the readers, if you’re planning a trip to Italy and near Umbria, I’ve got a couple of amazing experiences in Gubbio you absolutely shouldn’t miss!
Picture this: you’re in Gubbio, swept up in one of Italy’s oldest traditions, dating back to at least 1160. It’s the vigil of Saint Ubaldo, and the energy is unreal. The main event is the Ceri—three massive wooden prisms topped with Saint Ubaldo, Saint George, and Saint Anthony statues.
You’ll be standing in Piazza Grande, feeling the buzz as the Ceraioli (these powerful guys) hoist the Ceri onto their shoulders and take off running through the streets. Join the crowd, cheer them on, and follow as they race up the steep road to Mount Ingino and the Basilica of Saint Ubaldo—it’s about four kilometers of pure adrenaline.
The best part? The Alzata at 11:30 a.m. (video) when the vast Campanone bell rings and the Ceraioli lift the Ceri upright quickly before sprinting off. It’s jaw-dropping. Afterward, stick around at night—wander the piazzas, grab local food (truffles), and wine from the vendors spilling out everywhere.
It’s so lively, and honestly, like photographer Steve McCurry once said about this festa, you’ll find not just saints and a festival, but people and life.
Oh, and a fun fact: those three Ceri are even on Umbria’s coat of arms!
Now, if your trip’s in winter, say around Christmas, Gubbio’s a different kind of magic. You’ve got to see the world’s largest “Christmas tree” on Mount Ingino. Imagine this: you’re there on December 7th when they flip the switch, and suddenly, 800 colored lights—450 meters wide, 700 meters tall, covering 130,000 square meters—light up the mountainside.
https://youtu.be/9kLbMgM6ifI ( The Ceri Alzata) Watch!
It shines every night until January 10th, a tradition since 1981, and it’s breathtaking.
While you’re at it, pop into Saint John’s church—it’s where they filmed Father Matteo, that fun TV series with Terence Hill as the priest detective. The church glows with colored lights, and nearby, Saint Martin’s neighborhood turns into a living museum with life-sized sculptures, biblical scenes, and artisans working away. It’s like stepping into a Christmas storybook.
Gubbio’s got this nickname, “city of fools,” thanks to its quirky locals, and you’ll see why—it’s got a timeless vibe, perched on Mount Ingino in northeast Umbria. Start your day at Piazza Grande; the valley views will stop you, and the Gothic Palazzo dei Consoli is a must-see.
Head inside the Civic Museum to check out the Eugubine Tables—seven bronze tablets from the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC that tell ancient Italic stories. You can even ring the Campanone bell! And get this: the palace had running water and toilets way back when—pretty impressive.
Down in the lower town, Piazza Quaranta Martiri feels like a medieval market, and the Church of Saint Francis is worth a stop—look for the spot where Saint Francis tamed a wolf, complete with the rock and the wolf’s grave marker. It’s a calm, quiet moment.
Head up to the Basilica of Saint Ubaldo on Mount Ingino for adventure. You can hike it, but I’d recommend the cableway—this tiny “cage” dangles 500 meters up, barely fitting two people. You’ll glide over Gubbio’s rooftops and hills, feeling like you’re flying.
At the top, you can see Saint Ubaldo’s relics and the famous Ceri up close. Trust me, whether it’s the festa in May or Christmas in December, Gubbio’s got a magic that’ll pull you back again.
And yeah, if you’re a Terence Hill fan, you’ll love that this is where Father Matteo came to life! What do you think? It sounds like a plan for your trip.