When does desire stop being desirable?

Every industry has its conventional wisdoms. In retail, it’s that key products should always be placed at eye level. In real estate, it’s that carefully chosen adjectives can transform a cramped flat into a ‘compact but stunning studio apartment’. And in advertising, it’s the immortal concept of ‘sex sells’. Popularised by the real and fictional Don Drapers of the trade, ‘sex sells’ is the idea that attractive people and sexual imagery make products more memorable, attract customers, and boost sales. And it’s fair to say that it’s been used tirelessly by brands across the board, including ones you’d least expect.?

In this week’s Brand Feel, we’re taking on the textbook advertising trope. From racy vintage ads to brands trying to correct themselves in the era of #MeToo, we’ll unpack some of the biggest themes and trends in the world of ‘sex sells’ advertising. All this to answer the burning question: is there still a place for flaming desire in today’s branding?

Tempting audiences since 1871?

The use of sex in advertising is nearly as old as advertising itself. We have Pearl Tobacco to thank for it – their 1871 package cover with an image of a naked woman was one of the first documented uses of sex appeal to tempt customers into a purchase. The trend quickly caught on, with other cigarette brands inserting sexy trading cards into each pack. From tobacco to soap to perfume; brand guardians realised that getting their audiences hot under the collar was the perfect way of grabbing the limelight and capturing attention.

As consumers’ ideas around sex changed, so did advertising. In the 50s, Marilyn Monroe saying she only wore Chanel No. 5 to bed was the height of titillation. By the noughties, brands like Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Abercrombie & Fitch, Diesel, and American Apparel had built their entire branding around desire, trying to outdo each other with ever more provocative ads. Soon after, brands outside the fashion and beauty industries turned to sex as a not-so-secret advertising weapon. From bottled water to flip phones and even vegetarianism (that’s PETA’s X-rated ‘Veggie Love’ campaign, in case you’re curious); sex has made it into nearly every industry’s ads.?

No wonder so many brands adopted this strategy. Whether the audiences find desire-driven messaging alluring or outrageous, these campaigns command attention. But that’s only half of the job of advertising – it must also persuade consumers to buy. This is where many sexualised ads have fallen down. They may capture attention, but when the campaign is not relevant to the product, or worse, alienating to certain audiences, it may do damage to a brand’s persuasive abilities and long-term perceptions.

?When hot-blooded passion burns ?

?Over the last few years, several brands that have historically relied on the ‘sex sells’ strategy have attempted to shake off their old brand perceptions in a bid to stay relevant – especially with the younger, more progressive crowd. The body spray brand Lynx, for example, came out with a campaign that marks a 180-degree switch from its notorious positioning of the product as a ‘babe magnet’. Adopting a self-deprecating strategy, ‘The New Lynx Effect’ reframes the classic Lynx storyline by challenging gender stereotypes – even a cockerpoo-walking Anthony Joshua features in the ad. Desire and attraction are still hinted at, but the focus has shifted to joy, confidence, and, crucially, consent. A refreshed take on desire targeting the next generation of customers.

?Lynx’s repositioning has been met with positive responses but the same can’t be said about every brand. After heavy criticism for promoting unrealistic beauty standards, Victoria’s Secret underwent a similar repositioning which saw the brand correct itself with a size-inclusive rebrand. But it seems it has gotten it wrong, on all fronts.

?For some audiences responding to the adverts on YouTube, the shift has been seen as a token gesture. ‘It feels like you just wanna fit into the trend only,’ ‘This just screams performative inclusivity.’ On the other hand, die-hard fans are mourning the ‘old Victoria’s Secret’ and calling on the brand to bring back the elaborate fashion show and supermodel marketing. By diluting its sexiness, Victoria’s Secret might just have alienated loyal customers and offended aspirational audiences in one fell swoop. All while newcomers, like Rihanna’s lingerie brand SAVAGE x FENTY, are sweeping in to grab market share – offering both glamorous designs and inclusive sizing.

?So, is ‘sex sells’ dead? ?

?Many advertisers have made a false assumption that because sexual desire is a primal feeling, it should be evoked through primal messaging. It encourages an oversimplified way of thinking that forgets the target audience and their drivers. This tends to lead to desensitised viewers and marketers who are reaching for more and more provocative ideas, just to evoke any response.

?However, there is still a route to renewing the spark. Diesel, another brand known for its steamy campaigns, might have chartered the way with ‘When together’. Launched during the pandemic, the campaign explores the emotions of real-life couples seeing each other for the first time after lockdown: longing for connection, nervous anticipation, excitement, pent-up desire. While the ad still features the sexualised imagery the brand is known for, it places it in a context that deeply resonates with the audience. It’s the vulnerable side of desire, rather than red-hot passion, that makes the campaign so magnetic.

?One of the most effective ways of leveraging desire by modern brands is through subtlety and acknowledging how the emotion fits into a broader set of audience drivers. Place and travel brands have been particularly successful in adopting this strategy, through tasteful nods to naughtiness as one of the many reasons customers are drawn to travel. British Airways playfully hints at this in its recent copy-driven campaign, while the Premier Inn’s TV advert explores love and desire in all its guises. Interestingly, the Premier Inn promises the same feeling of playful frivolity, whatever the trip – and indeed, whatever the audience.

?An irresistible opportunity

?Many brands today are choosing to entirely steer clear of the ‘sex sells’ strategy, out of concern for alienating or offending their audiences. This creates an opportunity for others to claim that space… and maybe even re-invent the genre. But to do so successfully, brands need to do their research. What does my audience actually find seductive? How is this relevant to my brand or product? Will this strategy really resonate or will it just attract attention? Am I risking alienating other audiences? Seduction is a dialogue – to get it right, brands should be listening as much as talking.?

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Every successful campaign starts with thorough research. At Hunter, we can help you understand your audiences through primary consumer research, cultural insight mapping, and consumer trends. Get in touch to find out more.