What’s Behind the Recent Rash of Designer Exits?
Today, WWD has all the exclusive details on Kenzo's new Global Ambassador. Also, take a deep dive into what's behind the recent rash of designer exits. Plus, get an inside look at the CFDA's Pride panel with AMEX and the new ‘Africa Fashion’ Exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum.
Kenzo’s artistic director?Nigo, no slouch when it comes to music, has selected Vernon, one of 13 members of South Korean boy band Seventeen, as a global ambassador for the French house.
The 25-year-old?K-pop?star is to front various?Kenzo?advertising campaigns for clothing and sneaker categories, and make his first official appearance at Kenzo’s coed fashion show taking place on Friday during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris.
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Does the recent rash of premature departures of young designers at storied houses suggest increased volatility in the creative director’s role?
The creative shakeup has little precedent in recent fashion history and comes in tandem with a healthy number of management changes.
“The two highest profile figures in a luxury brand are the CEO and creative director, and the buck stops with one or the other, sometimes simultaneously,” said Mary Gallagher, a Paris-based senior consultant at executive search firm Find.
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The LGBTQIA+ designers spoke with Them's Sarah Burke on their beginnings, muses and how to uplift their community through fashion and activism.
Burke pointed out that the designers “all kind of play with and respond to gender in such interesting and also different ways.” She moved the conversation to the impact of fashion beyond the runway, asking each how fashion can be used as a driver for inclusivity and the furthering diverse representation particularly for LGBTQIA+ and queer people of color.
“Our goal was to challenge like how trans bodies are allowed to show up in public space,” McCharen-Tran, whose label Chromat focuses on swimwear, said. “That is a huge part of why we’re doing what we’re doing. It’s creating more options and pushing the culture. I think fashion is a tool to live in your gender, to live in your truth and be comfortable,“ McCharen-Tran said to a mix of applause and screams from the crowd.
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A mannequin stands with head tilted, a knee jutting from the deep bias chiffon and woven fabric hemline of Papa Oppong’s Takari T, a T-shirt worn as a dress from the Ghanaian-born designer’s celebrated 2021 Yopoo collection, which evokes a Ghanaian woman’s life from birth to marriage to death. A “Ghana Must Go” bag — the ubiquitous blue, white and red reusable bags that have come to symbolize the forced migration of millions of Ghanaians from Nigeria — sits on the floor next to the mannequin.
It’s one of two looks from Oppong included in the Brooklyn Museum’s iteration of “Africa Fashion,” the blockbuster exhibition that opened last summer at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, and which runs Friday through Oct. 22 in New York.
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