What You Should Know About Organic Skincare Products

I talk to some people who would not even think of using any skincare product that isn’t organic. And then there are other individuals who wouldn’t touch an organic skincare product with a ten foot pole. I used to be the former but now I’m the latter. In my opinion, there is so much misinformation about the safety of organic vs. non-organic skincare products…like triethanolamine being linked to kidney and liver cancer, and hydroquinone causing cancer. There’s just so much misinformation about all of this!

For example, we know through a lot of clinical testing that not enough triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to even reach toxic levels. Peach pits contain cyanide. Oranges have methanol in them. We’ve been using parts of fruits and vegetables in skincare products for thousands of years. Many of them contain naturally-occurring chemicals and toxins. Keep in mind, just because something is natural does not mean it has been clinically tested and is safe to use on your skin. Poison ivy is organic and natural, but would you rub it all over your skin?

NEWS FLASH: All matter is made of chemicals (excluding subatomic particles). We are chemicals. The air we breathe is chemicals. The food we consume is chemicals that are digested by chemicals that turn them into more chemicals. Oxygen is a chemical, but we all need it to breathe, right? Therefore, a “chemical-free lifestyle” is impossible.

I agree that there are harmful chemicals in this world. However, the media and certain organizations also love to hype the dangers of them such as sulfates, parabens, hydroquinone, retinol, etc. and this raises unjustified alarm. In a lot of people’s minds chemicals are equal to toxins or poison. Keep in mind that products used on our skin topically are not the same as ingesting them. Did you know that there are around 80,000 synthetic AND natural chemicals (give or take a few) and only around 200 of them have been tested for safety?

Similar to the misconceptions of "healthy" when it comes to nutrition, public perception is often skewed by the media and credibility is often lacking. Many things, including natural compounds, in large quantities can be cancerous. There are guidelines, regulations, and testing for a reason. It is best to use organic and natural ingredients when they are safe and effective. While buying organic might be great for your groceries, when it comes to skincare the same rules don't necessarily apply. It doesn't necessarily mean better when it comes to caring for your skin.

My Personal Organic vs. Non-Organic Skincare Story

Many natural chemicals can be harmful, especially if misused while many synthetic chemicals not found in nature are life-saving. The main point to consider is that a skincare product's integrity depends on whether its ingredients are proven safe and effective backed by clinical studies and whether the concentration and delivery of the ingredients are appropriate.

Rewind back to almost 4 years ago, I only used organic and natural skincare products. I wouldn’t even think of using anything else. In all honesty, in the couple of years that I used organic skincare products, I kept waiting for them to transform my skin because after all, they were "organic." They never did anything for my skin other than make it feel soft and then...I got a terrible bacterial infection all over my face from using them, and my opinions changed after doing tons of research and talking to many skincare specialists about this hot topic. I ended up having to see a dermatologist and had to be on antibiotics for 3 months. I also had to purchase a special cream for my face for 3 months that cost me, with insurance, $243 a month. The regular no insurance price was almost $700 a month. I had to use that cream daily all over my face. My skin finally cleared up. But during those 3 months of skin agony, my self-esteem and confidence was so low that I didn’t even want to go out or be seen anywhere.

After going through this, I personally will never use organic products on my face again. My dermatologist as well as many other skincare specialists informed that organic skincare products, for the most part, are not regulated in the same way organic foods are regulated. It's best to stick with ingredients, such as retinol and Vitamin C, that have been studied, tested, and used with success for many years. If bacteria would have entered my blood stream, it would have been a huge issue for me. So from now on, I stick to organic as much as possible when it comes to my groceries. When it comes to skincare, I'd much rather use a brand and products that I know for sure are safe and effective. If only I knew then what I know now!

In my humble opinion, life is a balancing act...balancing work, family, exercise, social, etc. I’ve taken this same balanced approach when it comes to my skincare, the foods I eat, and the household products I use.

Meet Chemistry Expert Joe Schwarcz

Joe Schwarcz, Director of McGill University’s Office for Science and Society, is well known for his informative and entertaining public lectures on demystifying science topics for the public. Professor Schwarcz has received numerous awards for teaching chemistry and for interpreting science for the public. He hosts "The Dr. Joe Show" on Montreal's CJAD and has appeared hundreds of times on The Discovery Channel, CTV, CBC, TV Ontario, and Global Television. Dr. Schwarcz also writes a newspaper column titled “The Right Chemistry” and has authored a number of books, all of which have been on the best seller list.

First and foremost when it comes to your skin, Dr. Schwarcz will tell you to stay out of the sun. This is worse for you than any chemicals that may be in your skincare. People want magic while still getting a sun tan or going to tanning beds, but magic doesn’t happen when you tan.

Dr. Schwarcz will also tell you there is no difference between synthetic chemicals and chemicals produced by nature. What he will let you know is that there is a big difference between hazard and risk. You can reduce your risks, but you can’t reduce the hazard. He recommends that we don’t listen to all the hype. Even though the FDA doesn't monitor the skincare business, the Peer Review Scientific Literature does. The business is self-monitoring. Companies that are not necessarily all organic and natural do clinical testing. They don’t want to risk hurting anyone and getting sued. Listen to the British Journal of Dermatology. This is why the FDA doesn’t monitor, because they don’t need to.

Also, there is a lot of research in the cosmetic field. They even have their own governing body, The Cosmetic Ingredients Review Panel. They make the rules as to what and how much can be put into cosmetics. Again, cosmetics don't come under review by the FDA because they are not needed. Cosmetic companies want repeat customers, so they do monitor and test their products through other reviews and panels, not the FDA.

Organic Skincare Product Labeling

If organic is supposedly better for skin, why aren't all products organic? Cost is one reason. Another reason is that it is difficult to create products that will stay blended and preserved without using proven chemicals to maintain bacteria-free products. The claim that organic and natural cosmetics are better for skin hasn't been proven in clinical studies.

Some patients may benefit from trying products labeled as organic or natural when they have a known allergy to a chemical ingredient or preservative. Still, you are just as likely to be allergic to something labeled organic. Product labels can be misleading. The FDA doesn’t have strict regulations on skincare and cosmetic definitions, so companies can use buzzwords like "organic" and "natural" without a concrete explanation to back up those claims. The FDA doesn’t regulate cosmetics and skincare products until after the product is put on the market. Manufacturers aren’t even required to register with the FDA or submit any data regarding their products, although they’re encouraged to do so. The FDA can and does inspect products for safety, but it isn’t a requirement in the same way food and drugs are tested.

The National Organic Program, a division of the Department of Agriculture, is in charge of monitoring that proper conditions have been met and assigning the appropriate USDA Organic seal to products. While these labels are important for marketing, they provide no guidelines about product safety. Don’t assume that the ingredients are necessarily safer just because they are organic. When it comes to labeling organic and natural products, a company can add two organic or natural ingredients and market the product as "contains natural ingredients," while filling it with a host of synthetic fillers, dyes, and fragrances. Many ingredients may come from natural sources, but synthetic chemicals are still used in the processing of the product.

So, rather than thinking in terms of organic vs. natural vs. unnatural when it comes to skincare, it’s better to do your own research and investigate specific ingredients instead. Study up on the most common ingredients, where they’re derived from, and how they’re processed. Also, pay attention to whether you’ve been sensitive to these ingredients in the past.

Some Popular Chemicals Used in Non-Organic Skincare Products

Below are details on several popular chemicals used in some skincare and cosmetics that get a bad name, but is the dangerous hype about them really just scare tactics without clinical testing to back up those bad claims? Read below.

Parabens: They help stop bacterial growth. Parabens are necessary for use as preservatives. In one study, they did find changes in some cells, but this study had NO controls. Parabens are animal pheromones. They occur in nature. The same percentage used in cosmetics is equal to the same amount that can be found naturally in blueberries. We still eat blueberries. The truth is there is nothing wrong with parabens, especially when you put them into context with other more harmful chemicals that we are exposed to each day. Parabens are not toxic or carcinogenic to humans. They are perfectly safe for use in skincare and cosmetic products, and this is supported by a lot data and studies to back them up.

Parabens are easy to spot on a label. Their names contain the word “paraben” in them… methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc. They have been used for around 80 years and have a long and proven safety record. They are gentle on skin too, causing minimal irritation. In 2004, the following paper was published by a group of British researchers at the University of Reading: Concentration of Parabens in Human Breast Tumors, by P. D. Darbre, in the Journal of Applied Toxicology 24:5-13 (2004). The authors detected traces of parabens in breast tumor tissue samples. The interpretation was that parabens in the deodorants being studied could cause breast cancer. This generated immediate and widespread critique by the scientific community. However, there was a major flaw with this study – the control group samples were contaminated by parabens of an unknown source. The researchers admitted that they didn’t know where those parabens came from. They could’ve come from a source other than the deodorants. Peer reviews of this study showed that there is no causal link between the parabens and cancer. To date, no studies have proven that parabens cause cancer.

Of course, this study was picked up by the media and several consumer advocacy groups who reinforced these erroneous findings to the public. And this is how parabens got a bad rap. The author publicly refuted the interpretations in the study in a letter to the editor of the journal later that year. But of course the media didn’t let it be known to the public.

The concern about parabens is over their potential to be endocrine disruptors by mimicking human estrogens. In comparison, parabens are 100,000 times weaker than human estrogens. In order for parabens to have an estrogenic effect, the dosage would have to be at least 25,000 times the dosage used in skincare and cosmetics.

Hydroquinone: A popular skin lightener that doesn’t accumulate in the body and breaks down very quickly. Hydroquinone when fed to rodents in high doses will create cancer. Studies have fed high doses to humans with no harm. Hydroquinone is also found in blueberries. It shouldn’t be used when pregnant but there is no evidence that it is risky in pregnant women. However, there is no sense in taking the chance. So while hydroquinone is a concern for many, it has NOT been directly linked to cancer in humans, only mice. This rumor arose from a study that demonstrated mice exposed to hydroquinone developed liver tumors. However, these results were reported in a misleading fashion, as dermatological experts explained in a 2006 review in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Rodent studies involving very high doses of hydroquinone administered by feeding tube showed the potential to cause cancer, according to the FDA. However, no carcinogenic properties have been associated with topical or oral hydroquinone use in humans. So, if you're a human and use the standard preparations, then hydroquinone seems safe to use. Also, the track record speaks to the safety of hydroquinone itself. Some suggestions exist that there may be problems when pharmacies compound hydroquinone in higher concentrations than the approved 4% level, but again no studies have proven hydroquinone causes cancer in humans when used topically.

It appears to work well with other ingredients like vitamin C, Retin A, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acids. You can use lower concentrations of 1.5-2% and get additional benefits from these complementary ingredients. Always keep the concentration of hydroquinone as low as possible. OTC preparations can have up to 2% while those available by prescription usually have around 4% hydroquinone. Always buy products containing hydroquinone if they are only made in the U.S. Mercury has been banned for many years and this seems to be a major source of issues in skincare products that contain hydroquinone made in other countries.

Retinol: A vitamin A derivative found in many OTC products and has been favored by dermatologists for decades. It is a weaker version of tretinoin, a prescription vitamin A that is highly effective in reversing sun damage and signs of aging. There are many people that can’t tolerate tretinoin because it can be very irritating and drying. Retinol is milder yet still effective. Vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, rapidly break down when exposed to the sun and air and should be used at night only. Retinol-containing products should always come in pumps, tubes, or capsules with tight-fitting caps. In day time products, retinol can have the opposite effect and actually make skin age faster because it is more susceptible to the sun, no matter the amount of sun protection promised in day time products, foundations, or sunscreens. Something else to consider is that retinol, like all vitamin A derivatives, isn't recommended for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. The bottom line is that retinol is a useful and proven ingredient in its proper place, night time products.

Product Risk vs. Benefit

The presence of either synthetic or natural chemicals doesn’t mean the presence of risk. Apples have formaldehyde and acetone. You have to look at the numbers. It was Paracelsus who said, “All things are poison and nothing is without poison; only the dose makes a thing not a poison.” Dosage and ingredient concentrations in any skincare product are key. In cosmetics and skincare products, whether the chemical is natural or synthetic is irrelevant. It is the same chemical.

Opposing views in science are common, but don't necessarily carry equal weight. There is always the argument that synthetic or natural chemicals that are safe alone, may trigger cancer in a combination. Almost any position can be supported by the data. There are no safe substances, only safe ways to use substances.

The key is education. Common sense tells us that everything in moderation is what works. Too much of a good thing can end up being bad for you, synthetic or natural. The next time you purchase skincare products, educate yourself as to whether the ingredients are proven safe and effective. Are they backed by clinical studies? Are the concentration and delivery of the ingredients appropriate?

Putting All This Information into Perspective

In skincare and cosmetics, most “supposedly bad for you chemicals” are used at low concentrations. In toxicity studies, chemicals are tested at very high concentrations. The goal of these studies is to administer a high enough dose of a substance to cause death or harm to the test subject. At an extremely high dose, nearly all chemicals are toxic. Even water is toxic if too much is ingested. You can't conclude that the same substance at a much lower dose that you would find in a skincare or cosmetic product would be just as toxic. You’d need to repeat the study at the same dose used in the actual skincare and cosmetics products themselves. You would have to compare apples to apples instead of apples to oranges in order to get a true study result. In the ideal scenario, you would also repeat the study in human beings, not lab mice. Additionally, the manner of application matters (topical, injection, or oral) as well as the contact time (how long was the subject exposed?).

The problems begin when people who don’t have scientific training start making the wrong assumptions or drawing the wrong conclusions from medical toxicity studies. Don't get me wrong, I think it’s great to have advocacy groups looking out for us. We need that system of checks and balances. But when it comes to medicine, health, skincare, and cosmetics, specialized scientific knowledge and training are required to interpret studies and analyze products correctly, reporting the correct information to the public. Be in the know before you start to panic when coming across an article on the internet saying that only organic skincare products are good for you and your skin.

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