What I learned Walking 5 Days of La Compostelle in France

Reflections and Learnings from hiking La Compostelle in France, June 2022

Suzanne Saxe-Roux

?Having moved to the south of France permanently during Covid, I became more and more interested in walking part of La Compostelle in France, a hike that has become increasingly popular the last 20 years for people from all over the world. It’s an ancient trail, followed by thousands of walkers and pilgrims each year since the tenth century. (You can read a little bit about the history of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques?here .) Some people take on the challenge for religious reasons, other for the great outdoors adventure, or to get in touch with something deeper in their lives, find new meaning, meditate, heal themselves, to connect with nature, pray, or to recalibrate and rejuvenate. It is a personal journey in which everyone on the trail provides support, encouragement, empathy, and camaraderie. In France there are four routes connecting to the final destination at Santiago de Compostelle in western Spain. Many people do one trail at a time, a portion of one, or some take 6 months off and complete the whole trail. We chose the Chemin de Saint Jacques starting in Le Puy-en-Velay.

As lovers of nature, my husband and I chose to go for the challenge, the beauty, and to get away and engage in whatever came up for us on this journey. Physical preparation is required as well as mental commitment and alignment.

?Our first step started at the Cathedral Notre Dame du Puy at 7:00 in the morning for the Pilgrims Mass and blessing. Hundreds of hikers filled the Cathedral with backpacks and walking sticks propped up against the stone walls. Not being catholic, I wasn’t sure what to expect, but was surprised to see the priest ask people to introduce themselves, where they were from across the world, to meet their fellow pilgrims and hikers, and he jointly blessed everyone for a great, beneficial, and safe journey. Immediately, a bonding occurred as people lined up to purchase their “La Compostelle Passport” (the stamps you get at stops along the way, proof that you traveled the route).

The euphoria was soon short lived as we climbed from the cathedral to the top of the town to set out on the Camino. It felt like forever and I was already questioning my choice and ability fighting not to turn back. With a devilish smirk, I stared longingly at the bus sign and dreamed of the bus taking me to the top of the steep hill. I could hear my daughter’s voice saying, “You can do it, push through.” Wanting to make my daughter proud and knowing there was a bus that followed the road from village to village gave me options and confirmed that I wouldn’t be stranded, if I truly failed to “push through”. Our standing joke, from then on was that I could look at the schedule, stare, but, no-no-no, I could not get on the bus! Very quickly, as we set out on the first 14 km (8.6 miles) day, I had some insights:

Reflection 1: Everyone is on their own journey and goes at their own pace.

?In researching the hike, we discovered most people walk 25 km+/- per day, day after day up, down valleys and over mountains. Our intuition after consulting with a friend who had done the hike a few times and after a grueling 15 km practice hike over boulders closer to home was to find a pace that would work for us. 25 kms was more than we wanted to do daily as we also wanted to enjoy the nature, get in touch with life, and do some aquarelle painting and reading each day (and maybe take a nap). We set our pace at 15 km and 7 km easier days with multiple rests at friendly chambre d'hotes with full pensione (who also stamped our passports) and time to hang out in small villages. We decided we were not competing to get the next village first or be the fastest. It was for us to enjoy and at our own pace and we wanted time to chat with other hikers. Even my husband who found himself walking faster and ahead of me had sufficient time to commune with nature as he walked at his individual pace, meditated along the way, and socialized with others on the trail when people rested together. ?

Throughout the day we would stop and rest in the shade, drink water and eat a light snack, enjoy the amazing views, and visit with other hikers. Later, hikers would pass us or we would pass them and so it went. I was learning that I could go at my own pace and it wasn’t a race to win. It was an individual journey, but shared experience. Some people talked, some walked in silence. Each according to her or his own needs. When we saw two French women take out their special carafe of café (besides water) and chat over a chocolate snack, we knew they had the right idea. It was about the journey and enjoying it, the joie-de-vivre, not the finish line.

By the last day, we decided to get up early and leave by 6:30 to avoid the heat of the day. Our host that morning got up specially to make us a grand café crème and serve breakfast. I found myself totally relaxed hiking uphill for 2 km alone at the break of dawn. ?There was something easy about going ahead of the crowd. A few hours later, one group of hikers we met at dinner the night before, waved as they met up with us and said, “We heard the Americans left at 6:30 and wondered if it was you. Bravo”

Reflection 2: When stressed or tired, stop, and take 30 seconds of calm and breathe

?Climbing the mountains were not easy, especially as I have had asthma my entire life. I wasn’t wheezing, but was short of breath often. As a result, I gave myself permission, borrowing from CNN, to give myself 30 seconds of calm when I was anxious or stressed. ?I’d stop and stand still, breathe in and out 5 breaths and slow my heart rate. Thirty seconds later, I would continue. I did this over-and-over again as I climbed the toughest trails and smiled each time I stopped or got to a crest. Again, this small gift to myself was for the benefit of my own journey and was another insight into how life is not a race, but how we live it each moment, each hour, each day. One step at a time, I was climbing the hills and making steady progress.

Reflection 3: Be more Empathetic and less Judgmental (of others and of myself)

?Unexpectedly, I kept hearing myself say, “Let go of judging yourself and others. Have some empathy.” As the birds sang, the cuckoo birds called, ka-ka-ka-ka-ka-kow-kow-kowlp-kowl-kowlp, the winds rustled softly through the trees, and I put one foot in front of the other, this idea of non-judgment was taking hold. I was learning on this pilgrimage that judgment made me unhappy, and truly did not help anyone. I don’t usually think that I am judgmental, but as I dug deeper, I realized there were times that I was critical of others and said something that didn’t need to be said.?It was triggered by something someone once said or my own inner voice. Hiking through the meadows, I realized I needed to focus on being more empathetic and be more aware of what was going on with people before speaking. More listening quietly. More taking in. The birds, the land, the wind, the farmers, fellow hikers along the way, and the hosts at the hotels were all empathetic to our journeys providing us with the best care possible. All supporting our efforts.

Over the next days and weeks, I practiced stopping and breathing my 5-30 seconds of calm before responding with any judgment and with more empathy and an open heart.

?Reflection 4: The kindest people are walking the La Compostelle

The open and loving attitude of each person we met was extraordinary. From the 81 year old vibrant Canadian woman hiking alone to a group of friends from northern France, to two brothers from Luxembourg, to a mom and son who were camping along the way, all were unique and awesome. Each person was kind, supportive, generous, and empathetic to each other’s personal journey. What I learned was, that it doesn’t take much, but a kind smile, a gentle nod, a bottle of water, a hello wave as you pass on the trail. Kindness is free, easy, and wonderful to give and to receive and it has a big impact.

?This entry into hiking La Compostelle was eye-opening and everything I hoped it would be. Next year, we are looking at a different route in Portugal or Spain, where new insights will be found.

?Following is a summary of my learnings and insights that can be used in all aspects of life both at work and personal.

?1: You and everyone around you are on their own journey through life.

?Remember, what we can do best, is support others on their journeys, provide them with encouragement, motivation in the form of stretch tasks, feedback, gently nods in the right direction and coaching to succeed.

?2: When stressed or tired, stop and take 5 - 30 seconds of calm to rejuvenate and to breathe

?When you become annoyed, frustrated, tired, angry, lonely, hungry, or stressed, consider taking 5 to 30 seconds of calm and breathe in and out. Allow yourself the sense of quiet, peacefulness, and coming back to the present moment. Walk outside in nature and close your eyes, breathe deeply, and get restored in 5 seconds.

3: Be empathetic and less judgmental

?Be aware of being triggered by someone or wanting to “let them know what you think or how you feel or what the better way is”, under the guise of being judgmental and “informative”. Take 5 seconds and consider what is happening to the other person, what will be most helpful in the moment (staying silent, asking a question, listening, or making a constructive critique)? We all have choices on how to respond. Be mindful of this and consider all your options before charging in with your wisdom.

?4: Everyone has the capacity to take the time to be Kind

?We all have the ability to be kind and gentle to others, but often forget in our busy days. Give someone a big smile, a thank you, a nod, a hug (if appropriate), a bottle of water or a snack to eat. It is about the simple and small acts that turn out to be huge. Let them know you are there and you care. Being kind?is also beneficial to yourself, it releases dopamine in the brain that makes you feel good, a natural high, making you feel happier and more positive.?

Lastly, breathe, take a walk for 10 minutes, be in nature, for an hour, a day, or a few days or more. It is awe-inspiring and restorative![1]

Suzanne Saxe-Roux, Ed.D., PCC

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