WHAT DOES A CHEF LOOK LIKE, Pt. 2: HOW DO WE GET MORE WOMEN IN THE KITCHEN?
Countertalk
Working to promote healthy & inclusive working environments in hospitality. Food events, talks, demos and more.
As we continue our series spotlighting the experiences of women in the kitchen, we’re asking: how do we get more female representation in professional kitchens? Many of us recall the backlash when a certain butter influencer showcased his male-only kitchen team and, in defence, claimed that no women applied. We don’t need to dignify that excuse with an analysis, but we do need to explore why this could have been deemed an acceptable response, why it’s an excuse that we still hear too often behind closed doors, and what we can do to move the dial.
In this discussion, four leading female chefs—Chantelle Nicholson, Sally?Abe, Emily Chia, and Simmie Vedi—delve into the broader issue of gender representation in kitchens. Their insights reveal the systemic challenges that women face in the culinary world and emphasise the urgent need for industry-wide changes to create more inclusive and equitable environments.
As the chefs discuss leadership and workplace culture, they move beyond personal experiences to propose actionable solutions, from offering flexible working hours and supportive maternity packages to fostering diversity in leadership. They advocate for systemic reforms to make kitchens more welcoming to women and stress the importance of empowering women from all backgrounds, while dismantling long-standing structures that have marginalised them.
These chefs are not just challenging the status quo; they’re shaping a future where the culinary industry better reflects the diversity and talent it has long overlooked.
REPRESENTATION
Chantelle Nicholson: Throughout my career, I was often the only woman in the kitchen, but now my kitchen is the opposite. Still, from a public perception, there’s a clear lack of female chefs in the media spotlight. Efforts have been made to reduce this (often unconscious) bias, but they tend to be inconsistent. While we’ve seen some change, we still have a long way to go.
The same old chefs get quoted, take up the column inches, and dominate the airtime—even though they were notorious for treating people badly in the past. Meanwhile, chefs today who are doing incredible things receive less attention, despite pushing boundaries and stepping out of their comfort zones. There’s an 'old guard' that hasn’t innovated much, yet they maintain a revered presence in the media. Time and time again we have seen 'exposés' where bad behaviour has been called out, but it's not run its course. I’m not into playing the blame game, but I do believe in people owning their actions and genuinely working to improve things.
Sally?Abe: There is definitely still a difference in how male and female chefs are perceived; although it is changing it's not changed and it's annoying when people seem to think that the problem is fixed! There is still a tendency to assume that the women are the pastry chefs. I think in the public eye most of the men on TV are the professional chefs – Tom Kerridge, Marcus Wareing where as the women tend to be more home style cooks – Delia, Nigella etc. Which I think sends a message in itself.
When I was a young chef I didn’t give gender representation in kitchens a great deal of thought as there wasn’t a choice in the matter, you just took what you got and were grateful for being given the opportunity. But today the tables are turned as every restaurant is continually short staffed so the power lies with the staff now. We need to make our kitchens places that are attractive to women. Offer good, flexible hours, maternity packages, environments which they feel comfortable in – not in which they are made to feel like an outsider. It's important to understand that everyone receives information differently – it can’t be a one size fits all approach.
Emily Chia: Representation is so important. Only in the last 5 years are we seeing widespread representation of women in professional kitchens. I want to be able to see myself and what a career path in kitchens can look like for someone like me. To add another layer to this dilemma, I can think of a handful of head chefs/chef owners who are women of colour cooking cuisines not directly reflective of the colour of their skin. Power to the people representing their own culture through cuisine. But my experience in the kitchen is not in Chinese cuisine and I often have to justify my position cooking non-Asian food.
Knowing what challenges women in kitchens and women in management face is only half the battle. I hope that when we diversify the culture in kitchens (not only hiring more women but people from different cultural, social and economic backgrounds) we will have a more empathetic environment in which minorities and underrepresented individuals can thrive. ?
Simmie Vedi: I think I've had to have this conversation with thousands of people over ten years, about why I don't cook more Indian food. It seems to stress certain types that I haven't made my culture's food my entire personality. I love my culture but my experiences in kitchens and personal interests in food go way beyond that. Women of colour seem to have these expectations pushed onto us by others and I'm glad to go against that now so that more women can go against it in the future.
Male chefs are usually perceived as being in charge, they are usually approached first by delivery drivers, technicians and the public etc. Within the kitchen, it varies - in some kitchens (usually with undesirable leadership) there is a distinct segregation of genders; women placed on pastry despite their wishes or interests, ostracised from the rest of the team. In other places it just doesn't matter. I feel like it's changing - even in the decade I've been cooking it's changed a lot. Why? Well, despite male chefs usually learning from their mothers, women's skills and intellect within a kitchen have been downplayed and devalued over time. I think as we gain more and more women into this industry, the perception of women in kitchens is changing. The strength and skill we bring to a team has been undermined for a long time.
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CULTURE
Chantelle Nicholson: I had hoped monumental shifts had happened, and in some ways they have but talking to some of the young chefs that come and spend some time in our kitchen I'm not so sure. There still seems to be a culture where kindness isn't a celebrated trait, and the opposite reigns. On a positive note, I do feel hopeful when there are some lovely chats that I tap into on the Countertalk Business Owners & HR WhatsApp chats. Where you can see people genuinely care for their team and how the business can support them.
I could tell you so many horror stories, but I'm not sure it is super helpful. I think the worst part was the way it really put me off the industry. I remember cycling to one place I worked at and just wishing a bus would knock me off my bike, so I didn't have to go to work, and could just sleep for weeks (I was very sleep deprived due to working so much). That is not an experience I want anyone else to have to go through, amongst other things. Hence why for me, Apricity was a chance to do things differently for the people of our industry.?
Simmie Vedi: Bullying and micromanagement are still significant issues in kitchens. As a head chef myself now, I handle bullying swiftly, using the processes in place—whether it’s mediation, disciplinary action, or something else. As for micromanagement, I think it's good practise to voice your concerns to your employer, and if they continue, consider leaving the organisation in a planned way that offers you the most security. As an industry, we need to stand up for these things when we see them happening, keep logs of problems and report issues to appropriate bodies. I am also strongly in favour of unions and the advice they can offer.?
The other thing - men just don’t understand how we are affected by the different way in which they speak to us in work. From dismissive to patronising to overly familiar or flirtatious, all women have the same set of experiences at varying frequencies throughout our career.
Sally?Abe: Language in the kitchen is a huge issue for me. Being called ‘darling,’ ‘miss,’ or ‘young lady,’ even at a senior level, is incredibly condescending and happens far too often. People need to think twice about how they address others—if they wouldn’t say it to a man, why is it okay to say to a woman?
The best workplace experience I had was at The Harwood Arms. Once the team was where I wanted us to be, it was a great place to work - everyone had each other's backs and it was a very empowering workplace to be a part of. We operated as a real unit, supporting each other during busy times and making a real effort with team meals. It was fun, empowering, and we even had sing-alongs to the speaker in the mornings before service!
Emily Chia: All the small things mount up so much - the small ways in which women feel that the whole set-up is not for them. Uniforms for example - company-provided workwear, even when available in different sizes, is not designed for women. While I appreciate not having to buy my own uniform, I also need to feel comfortable at work. The classic Carême jacket, when fitted on a chef, is the equivalent of a power suit - but chef whites often feel like I’m playing dress-up, rather than giving me the confidence and sense of professionalism that women deserve as much as men.
FUTURE
Chantelle Nicholson: Apricity is, in many ways, the antithesis of my early experiences. It was important to me to do things differently. It took quite a lot of unlearning, and getting out of my comfort zone, but my goal was clear: to create a restaurant that served great food, awesome drinks, was warm and welcoming, and put the team first. Setting boundaries for this (and for myself) allowed it to happen. We are now in the opposite position to that which I was in during my early career - we have one male in the kitchen, as opposed to one female interestingly. This wasn't intentional, but happened organically. I think it is due to offering a supportive environment where anyone can thrive, despite your gender or other. Basic things such as a curfew for guests to be out by, to ensure the team get home safely & have enough rest time, a 5 day week operation, closing for team days twice a year, plus a few more things just set the ground rules to base it all from.?
Simmie Vedi: We need to create spaces where women feel safe. A lot of kitchen culture is still unhealthy and quite phobic to women and the LGBTQIA+ community. Replacing the leadership that believes in perpetuating misogynistic and homo/transphobic tropes is paramount.
My current place, Chapter, is an arts and community centre and the vibes are everything. The people are ridiculously lovely, the morals, ethics and codes are all in-line with my own. I don't have to hide a single part of who I am and I’m trusted to do my job without micromanagement. The lesson here is simple: stop micromanaging your team, pay skilled people what they’re worth, and make them feel valued.
Emily Chia: I took chances on applicants who didn’t have the experience and based hiring on positive attitude and willingness to learn. Often applicants without experience were women who didn’t feel confident in their abilities or were doing career changes, often both! I think about what I needed when I was in their position, what kind of training and encouragement helped move me forward. Some women I’ve had the pleasure of hiring and working with are now head chefs—I couldn’t be prouder to know them. In all honesty I am still learning and I think being able to admit that is one of my strengths. I strive to always create and work in an environment where women can be honest, not perform for men and not be judged for being themselves.