What is actually selling in the fashion world?
Elena Kirioukhina
Independent Consultant - Retail/Wholesale at Openstyle Consulting
I don't have a design background, I haven't studied at fashion school but I can look at the collection and tell you in 10 minutes what would work, what needs to change, and why. This comes from years of selling experience and interest in fashion. However, once in a while my prediction is totally wrong and it proves (to me) that fashion is super exciting. When Maria Grazia Chiuri left Valentino (where she worked as a co-designer with Pierpaolo Piccioli) for Dior, no one knew for sure what to expect, who is the real talent? It was like two people writing books together. Who is better Par Wahloo or Maj Sjowall (Swedish crime novelists that wrote together, I highly recommend)? But as soon as I saw the first collection I was 100% sure - the designer stayed at Valentino. This was boring and uninteresting. Today, I think that MG is one of the best designers out there.
With the rise of social media and street fashion, the image of what is cool is moved towards the younger, hipper clients. The issue here is simple: those clients have no money and the designer's RTW was and still is supported by women of 35 and older. So MG went to work to make sure those women have something appropriate to wear. The first - bar jacket. The iconic Dior item she reworked multiple times in different fabrications: tie die, denim, tapestry, taking the price down (it helps the client to buy a second piece). Luxury designers rarely talk about core. At this price, you have to innovate all the time. She doesn't care. A few seasons ago she made a camouflage group using fil coupe technique. It sold out in a second. So, this is core now. The examples are endless. Back in March during her conversation with Suzy Menkes about the future of the fashion weeks and call-outs for a new production schedule, she didn't go into any drama. She just mentioned that her client is happy with the way things are and her atelier is producing collections the same way as per pandemic. Basically, she took all mystiques out of Dior and made it all about the client that wants to wear pretty clothes. Some called her a glorified merchandiser, so what? Business is great. Valentino? I don't want to gossip.
With all the men's streetwear designers that are coming to the women's world, I have a question: what are they planning to show to a 40 years old woman who can afford to buy at a regular price?