Weekly Wind Down - A curved classic from Cartier, an ultra-thin Bulgari & a rare Rolex Submariner

2023 Cartier Tank Cintrée '100th Anniversary'

In a modern world of high tech materials and complex construction techniques, it’s hard to appreciate just how revolutionary the Tank Cintrée was when it debuted in 1921.? At a time when wristwatches were still evolving from pocket watches, Louis Cartier dared to create something entirely new—an elongated, curved case designed to follow the natural contours of the wrist. This was a radical departure from traditional watchmaking, a statement of both style and ergonomics that had never been seen before.

100 years later, 卡地亚 celebrated this icon with a limited-edition reissue of just 150 pieces. This modern rendition remains strikingly faithful to the original, featuring its signature slender profile, gently arched case, and minimalist dial. Its refined proportions and seamless curvature showcase Cartier’s mastery of watch design—a legacy that continues to captivate collectors today. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for ￡34,750.?

2022 Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton

The Octo Finissimo may have lost the arms race for the world’s thinnest mechanical watch (that title currently belongs to Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing), but that doesn't diminish its impact over the past decade.

The Finissimo has redefined modern watchmaking, pushing the boundaries of ultra-thin design while maintaining everyday wearability. Over the years, Bvlgari has expanded the line, showcasing its watchmaking expertise across various complications and finishes.

One of our favorites is this skeletonised reference, which puts the incredibly thin in-house Caliber BVL 128SK on full display. For a collection defined by movement innovation, this feels like the ultimate expression of the Octo Finissimo’s engineering prowess.

We also have to talk about ergonomics. At just 5.37mm thick, this watch is a masterclass in comfort. Crafted in titanium, its lightweight construction enhances wearability without compromising the bold, architectural aesthetic that defines the Octo Finissimo line. Who said fashion brands can’t do high horology? Recently sold on Watch Collecting for ￡9,200

1987 Rolex Submariner 'Triple Zero'

The ROLEX Submariner reference 168000 occupies a somewhat mysterious place in the model’s history. Produced for only nine months between 1987 and 1988, it served as an incremental transition between the 16800 and later models. At first glance, it is nearly indistinguishable from its predecessor, retaining the same design elements and caliber 3035 movement. However, it introduced one crucial innovation—the use of 904L stainless steel. This was the first time Rolex implemented 904L in a Submariner, a material now synonymous with all modern Rolex sports watches due to its superior corrosion resistance and polished finish.

Another intriguing detail is its reference number. The 168000 was the first Submariner to feature a six-digit reference, a format Rolex would not revisit until the early 2000s. This unique distinction, combined with its incredibly short production run, makes it a compelling piece for collectors. Despite its relative obscurity, the 168000 offers strong value in today’s market, often priced close to the more common 16800. Given its historical significance and rarity, it has all the hallmarks of a future collectible—one that remains an underrated gem in the Submariner lineage. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for ￡9,350