A week in Champagne...
Christopher Walkey
Champagne / Sparkling Wine Consultant. Founder of Glass of Bubbly / Sustainability in Wine Conference / Champagne Collectors. Wine author / judge / advisor and much more...
That time of the year again when the urge creeps upon me to have myself booked for a week down amongst the vines and sleepy villages of the Champagne region.
For the last few years I have made at least one trip annually for several days at a time as I engage in a busy agenda of pre-booked winery visits and unique tastings with both old friends and new.
"With thousands of producers packed together in its two main wine growing areas, Champagne is a wonderful wine tourism destination for anyone wishing to explore the flavours and aromas of this famous and globally loved 'tipple'."
This year I was joined by two others, Oliver who took charge of live streaming each visit and Les (Glass of Bubbly investor) who wanted to chalk off a visit to Champagne from his bucket list and kindly took his Range Rover and the driving duties... Three men in Champagne you could say.
There is so much to love when visiting this wine region (Ardennes, Aube, Haute-Marne, and Marne) with calming and peaceful villages set within rolling hills of neatly planted vines. As you pass through the regions you will come past many Champagne houses from those smaller and unknown names operating in the villages from their homes to the grander names boasting impressive set ups and large operating quarters.
This time our journey took us to the northern region and what for me is the heart of this wine region, Epernay, with our diary packed with three visits daily for five days meaning that from 10:30 until 18:00 we would often be found with a glass of bubbly in our hand.
"I recommend to book in any visits / tasting prior to travelling as many of the smaller producers can be busy with the likes of maintaining their vines and the larger wine houses can be quite full of visitors during the peak holiday season."
It is advisable to set about an agenda prior to travelling and exploring the Champagne region and that any visits to wineries that you plan you have previously booked and confirmed. Much of the region sees usually smaller villages and towns that hold clusters of Champagne houses so you can easily visit many as they are spread around sometimes only a few steps from each other so that from walking to cycling to driving, you are able to enjoy a good selection of wine makers and wines.
Lots of Champagne houses are offering overnight accommodation on site or very nearby plus you can explore the likes of AirBnB so to find a places to stay. You can easily spend a day in each small village and simply travel on to the next (avoiding driving in between tastings). Epernay is quite central and is seen as the main local 'town' with most services available (Reims located some 20 mins drive north) and has its own train station which is connected to Paris and thus Eurostar for those visiting from the UK.
"You will find it hard to put down your mobile phone / camera / video camera and especially to resist updating your social media accounts as the region holds a lifetime of wonderful moments to capture from expertly groomed vines to stunning architecture. It's an Instagram dream location!"
Our tour started with a visit to the Champagne house of FreresJean Frere, located in Avize, who are creating, what will soon be available to both professionals and consumers, a fine tasting and overnight destination. This winery really sets the bar when it comes to standard of wine making and branding and our overnights stay relaxed us down perfectly from our several hour journey just taken. Overnight accommodation for both trade and consumers by way of two wonderfully renovated traditional village property where you can taste and explore your way through their labels and vintages.
As a wine journalist and particularly one focused on Champagnes and sparkling wines, it is of course a wonderful profession to have, though simply sitting back to enjoy the moment is not always possible. For many others in the wine industry I am sure they will know what I mean, if you are heavily involved in wine journalism you are endlessly capturing 'the moments' from reviewing the wines to photography, grabbing notes from interviews to touring cellars / vineyards. Even when it comes to eating it may be a case of doing so when the food has turned cold as previously once again you find yourself taking notes and photos. Our friends and family may see all the best moments shared on the likes of Facebook and Instagram, but we are certainly paddling like a duck on water in between times!
So with a busy agenda ahead we had some fine Champagne labels to visit and share live broadcasting from:
Champagne Vollereaux:
Champagne Paul Launois:
Champagne Duval-Leroy:
Champagne Roger Brun:
We also had to collect The World's Finest Glass of Bubbly Trophy from wine maker Philippe Brun so that it can be ready to award to the new winner for 2020. Champagne Roger Brun were the 2019 winners for their Réserve Familiale 2004:
Champagne Goutorbe Bouillot:
Champagne Faniel et Fils:
Champagne Henri Chauvet:
Champagne Lorain-Trichet:
Champagne Michel Gonet:
Champagne Jacquinot:
Champagne Richard-Flinaux:
Champagne Robert-Allait:
Champagne Roger Constant Lemaire:
Champagne Moutardier:
Champagne Autreau:
Champagne de Boursault: