Are we there yet? The status of the EU’s Textiles Strategy

The EU Strategy on Sustainable Textiles from 2022 aims to make the industry more circular and make fast-fashion “out of fashion”. It sets out 24 measures, 14 of which is completed, 7 is ongoing or expected and 3 is unlikely to happen (see full list and details at the end). The completed measures are mainly low hanging fruits or parts of horizontal legislation. The majority of textile specific measures are expected to be adopted in the coming years.

Part of the next Commission’s objectives is to achieve the goals in the Green Deal, including transitioning resource-intensive sectors such as the textile industry to circularity. In some communities, it led to a sigh of relief after questions about the survival of the Green Deal after the European elections.?

A partially new narrative for the textile sector

But everything is not as before the European elections. The fierce competition from third countries underlines the need for getting the transition right. There will be greater emphasis on competitiveness and a well-functioning single market – a result of resource scarcity, dependency on third-countries and supply chain disruptions.

The recent report on EU’s competitiveness (the Draghi report) recommends “to establish a true Single Market for waste and circularity”. Something that is already reflected in the promised Circular Economy Act.

It does not mean lowering the green ambitions, but it will require careful consideration of measures and more harmonisation. Member States will likely have to focus on better implementation and enforcement.

What’s in the pipeline for textiles

There are multiple delays to the timeline envisioned in the Textile Strategy. But the eagerness to make textile products more sustainable is glaringly clear. The work has started in some areas despite not having an official mandate or work programme yet. This includes preparatory studies under the Ecodesign Regulation, assessing possible sustainability and information requirements as well as the feasibility of setting Green Public Procurement requirements.

Although the mission letter for the incoming Commissioner for environment does not explicitly mention textiles, it is tasking the next Commissioner to enhance efforts to develop a single market for sustainable products – this will inevitably include textile products.

There is also expected to be a political agreement on the extended producer responsibility soon. The aim being to internalise the environmental costs of textiles and ensuring better waste treatment. In addition, a common methodology for measuring the environmental footprint for apparel and footwear (PEFCR) is expected to be adopted in 2025.

European Parliament and Council went beyond the Textile Strategy

In some instances, the co-legislators went beyond the measures laid out in the Textile Strategy, showing the political willingness to take action. Most noticeable the ban on the destruction of unsold textiles, which applies from July 2026. Another example, is the Council wanting to mandate the Commission to assess the feasibility of setting waste prevention, collection, preparing for re-use and recycling targets by 2028.

In 2023, the European Parliament reiterated the need for absolute decoupling of growth from resource use in the textile sector and expressed concerns regarding the overconsumption. In June 2024, the Council called to scale up circular production and consumption models.

All this say that the textile sector will continue to remain in the spotlight for the coming years. Although greater emphasis will be put on competitiveness, sustainability measures combined with better implementation and enforcement may prove to be the way forward for a more prosperous future for the European textile industry.

Progress on measures from the EU’s strategy for sustainable textiles

Actions under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation following its adoption

• Mandatory performance requirements for the environmental sustainability of textile products: Preparatory study ongoing. Expected to be announced as priority group by March 2025.
• Digital Product Passport for textiles with information requirements on environmental sustainability: Preparatory study ongoing. Expected to be announced as priority group by March 2025.
• Mandatory requirements concerning green public procurement and Member State incentives: Preparatory study ongoing. Expected to be announced as priority group by March 2025
• Disclosure of the number of discarded products by large enterprises and their subsequent treatment, and measures on banning the destruction of unsold textiles: Completed. Starting first full financial year after August 2025. Note: ban included from 2026 for large companies, 2030 for medium-sized.

Other actions on sustainable production and consumption

• Empowering consumers in the green transition and ensuring the reliability of green claims. Completed. Applies from 27 September 2026. Note: Green Claims directive under negotiation
• Review of the Textile Labelling Regulation and considering the introduction of a digital label: Expected Q2, 2025.
• Revision of the EU Ecolabel criteria for textiles and footwear: Preparatory study ongoing.
• Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules for apparel and footwear: Commission is expected to adopt PEFCR in 2025.
• Initiative to address the unintentional release of microplastics from textile products: No measures expected. Note: could be addressed under the Ecodesign Regulation.
• Review of the Best Available Techniques Reference Document for the Textiles Industry. Completed.
• Enforcing the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive in the textile sector. Completed. Measures apply from 26 July 2027.

Actions on waste challenges

• Extended Producer Responsibility requirements for textiles with eco-modulation of fees and measures to promote the waste hierarchy for textile waste. Under negotiation.
• Launch of work on the setting of preparing for re-use and recycling targets for textiles: Report published by European Environmental Agency. Note: Commission mandated to assess feasibility of targets in Council General approach for the Waste Framework Directive.
• Enforcing the restrictions on exports of textile waste outside the OECD and developing criteria for distinguishing waste from second-hand textile products: Waste Shipment regulation applies from 21 May 2026. Note: rules for export of reusable textiles expected in the Waste Framework Directive

Actions to enable the transition

• Launch of the Transition Pathway for the Textiles Ecosystem: First pledges handed in.
• Guidance on supporting uptake and partnerships for the circular economy between social enterprises and other actors, including in the textile sector: Focus on cooperation in extended producer responsibility.
• Guidance on circular economy business models featuring the textile sector: TBC.
• Launch of #ReFashionNow: Launched.
• New European Bauhaus to support sustainable textiles: Launched.
• Horizon Europe calls to support R&D in textiles: Launched.
• Adoption of common industrial technology roadmap on circularity: Completed.
• Criteria for circular manufacturing of apparel under the Taxonomy Regulation. Completed
• Work on skills for the textiles ecosystem within the European Skills Agenda and the renewed European Alliance for Apprenticeships: Completed.
• Strengthening of market surveillance through cooperation between enforcement authorities and launch of EU Toolbox against counterfeiting: Completed.

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