Water Damage Mitigation

Originally posted by R. Womack on Nottingham Country Neighborhoods, Katy Texas

As a retired restoration specialist I have had to structurally appraise and deal with more water damage than I can remember. So I would like to post some advice for my neighbors who have gotten water in their homes. 

When the water levels drop there are just not going to be enough qualified contractors and knowledgeable workers to address flooding of this magnitude. For those that have flood insurance I would imagine you have already contacted your carrier, if not do so. It is required that an owner take steps to mitigate their damage, but for those that do not have flood insurance it is even more important.

In dealing with any insurance carrier, FEMA or a government institution there are three things to remember: document, document, document. As soon as possible the first step I recommend is getting a video camera (much better than photos) and take a slow, through video of everything, narrating as you go. That means opening every drawer, box, closet, etc. etc. Make a copy and store the media in a safe place, so you can prove your loss.

As for the structure, restoration needed depends a lot on the depth of water that entered the structure and how long it was there; an inch or two is typically easier to address than several feet. But in every case getting your contents out as quickly as possible where they can be evaluated and damage addressed is a priority, also so proper access to the structural elements can be obtained. 

The following comments are general in nature and may or may not apply to your structure and is intended to give those an idea of what is involved to restore a water damaged structure: 

If a level of water remains in the structure that cannot be removed then there is little that can be done repair wise until the water level is below the slab. The longer water remains in the structure the greater the chance the structure will reach a point that it becomes economically unfeasible to repair.

Once the water level is below the slab, saturated components like carpet need to be removed promptly. Wood and laminate flooring will release and buckle so it too needs to be removed. Hard flooring may survive high water, but may not survive oncoming construction. 

Baseboards and other wood moldings will warp and separate. 

Drywall will hold moisture in the wall cavities and may grow mold so drywall is typically cut above the water line and removed to dry the wall cavities. From a repair standpoint when water levels have reached a couple of feet it is faster to remove and easier to repair by taking out the lower 4 foot sheet of drywall at the seam. Some insurance carriers however will only pay for drywall to the flood line. Exterior walls have insulation that will hold moisture for a longer periods of time so it is imperative the wet insulation be removed. Remaining water in the structure is typically removed with blowers, wet vacuums, mops, brooms, squeegees, etc. Drying fans and dehumidifiers should be set up as soon as possible. The more air you can move the better. If the HVAC is working DO NOT TURN ON THE HEAT! Turn on the AC and keep it as cold as possible. The lower the temperature the slower the mold growth.

Components above the water line will typically remain intact, but may develop mold and mildew unless treated.

Keeping down the growth of mold and mildew is extremely important. Clorox bleach and water is an old standby, cheap and it works, but it also has a strong odor, it is a bleach and I find it unpleasant to work with. I have always preferred using a product named Consan. It is an extremely effective algaecide, fungicide, bactericide concentrate safe to use around humans and pets. It is available in pints at Lows or by the gallon online. The last online price I saw was approximately $55 a gallon. One or two tablespoons per gallon of water in a pressurized garden sprayer and spray down everything. Wet clothing, rugs and other soft contents can be washed or dipped in the diluted Consan then let dry to remove mildew and odor. Consan does not bleach out colors. My wife and I used Consan for 30 years to wash our scuba equipment and wet suits during and after dive trips. 

As far as what to expect with other components:

Cabinets that have been underwater will delaminate. If the water level was less than a couple of inches and was removed promptly opening up the toe kick under lower cabinets and drying might save the cabinet. 

Doors will swell and separate as will the jambs and casings. With minor water levels, the jamb and casing may only require minor adjustment and repainting. 

Doorlocks and hardware will rust and corrode unless removed promptly cleaned and lubricated. Lubricants that leave a film like WD-40 work well.

Aluminum window frames should be wiped clean and a coat of WD-40 helps prevent corrosion.

Submerged electrical lines will usually dry without problems, however fixtures, switches and outlets will usually rust or corrode.

Plumbing fixtures will usually dry without problems and will just require cleaning.

Masonry will typically dry, but may be stained. Metal wall ties holding the masonry to the framework may rust or otherwise be compromised, this will depend on the length of time underwater.

The structure’s wood framework may warp, twist or bend and the nails will typically will rust. The extent will also largely depend on the length of time submerged.

I cannot stress the importance of the time element as to getting in and beginning the drying process. Once dry the structure can then be restored at your leisure. I realize many may not have the necessary skills, tools or feel comfortable, but for those that it is a necessity, day labor can usually be found in front of Home Depot. It is my hope there will be friends, neighbors, family or organizations that will also step up to help. I hope this narrative will be of some help to you, but as stated I am retired and not looking for work, as I already have more irons in the fire than I can handle.