Watch guide: Rolex Prototype “Moonraker” Daytona’s:

There are few things more exciting than the word “Rolex” followed by “prototype”; especially when it comes to their Daytona line. Today we will start by discussing the definition of a prototype and will follow this up by a textbook example of such, as we debut knowledge regarding a very subtle and historically important variant. This will be interesting…

Definition:?

The dictionary reads: Prototype – a first or preliminary version from which other forms are developed. How this applies to the watchworld is somewhat subjective. The topic of prototypes should be handled with care as it oftentimes is up for debate.?

Rolex is a mysterious company and over the years it has been a process of trial and error during the evolution of the brand and certain models. They tested out quite some things and sometimes it never made it into production or merely was used as a study. But the dynamics of those projects can differ quite a bit. Let’s shed some light on this with some examples:?

• The whitegold 1680 that broke some records when it sold half a decade ago. Rumored only 3 ever saw the light of day. It features a dial and handset that we know from regular production 1680/8 and a Bark-finished president bracelet we see on 1807/9. So far nothing special, however; a whitegold case wasn’t optional for the Submariner and most notable is the unique bezel. Adding to the narrative it was never intended for commercial sale: the watch doesn’t bear a serial number. Not unusual for a prototype.?
• Unlike “the Unicorn” Daytona. The unique aspect is also the whitegold case, but as this watch was delivered to a German retailer it does not qualify as a prototype but more likely was a special order for an important figure.?
• But where does the most recent find fit in? The Yacht-master made for Ben Ainslie. Not only is the case made out of Titanium but it also lacks the date feature. A prototype or a special order? You be the judge.

Going back to dive watches; a field that is very important to Rolex and where Rolex is responsible for major contributions. To push the limits for underwater exploration, many efforts and inventions were made, resulting in an interesting timeline of progress. A prime example project for professional intentions, rather than commercial goals, is the “Deepsea special”. Made in small batches, but in different variations, to “test the waters” regarding the functionality when exposed to huge pressure at great depths. It can be seen as the blueprint for the Sea-Dweller; that too has a true prototype of its own: “The single red Sea-Dweller”. Both are more prototype in the practical aspect, unlike the previously mentioned Submariner 1680/9.

Aesthetically Rolex also experimented. The dial of the watch is the main feature when changing the looks and this was outsourced, in close collaboration, too multiple producers. Singer for example was one of the suppliers to Rolex, among many other brands. Numerous concepts were created as -for example Singer- presented design proposals: displaying new materials, finishes, techniques etc. Needless to say not all these dial studies were taken into production; resulting in some unusual designs that were archived in their catalogue and sometimes -at a later stage- found their way into watches.?

Very different from the “Test dials” that are sometimes falsely advertised as prototypes. The design is very clean so there is no distraction from the functionality.??However, they were for internal use only, to test the precision of a movement for COSC qualification.?

As can be concluded by the previously mentioned examples, there are numerous aspects that can be taken into account to qualify, or disqualify, it as a prototype. All these aspects come together in the following watches dubbed “the Moonrakers”.

Movement:

Starting with the movement. The evolution of the Daytona obviously started with Valjoux-based movements, which were manually wound. The commercial success was very limited and therefore they shifted to automatic movements in 1988. Again, the engine of this line wasn’t from Rolex or Aegler themselves, but they reached out to Zenith for their El-Primero ebauche. Cal. 4030 was born out of it and the popularity of the model increased in the upcoming years. But still there was the urge for Rolex to debut their first in-house chronograph caliber, which they started to develop mid 90’s. Now during this process is where we can find the incredible prototype we have in today’s spotlight.?

The movement that was going to be launched -known as cal. 4130, featuring a “vertical clutch chronograph” resulted in a different positioning for the sub-dials. As form follows function, the second indicator was moved from 9 o’clock to the bottom of the dial, switching places with the hour totalizer. The minute counter stayed at the 3 o’clock, but just like the sub-dial at 9, it was moved off-center to a higher position on the dial.?

Dial:

Over to the dial; the very subject of this video. As this dial sits right between the 5-digit and 6-digit references, we will look at the differences and similarities compared to both.?

Because of the changes made in the movement, an update to the dial lay-out was required. As mentioned, the sub-dials moved to a higher position on the dial. When eventually the 6-digit Daytona launched, they also repositioned the text accordingly; now sitting closer to the coronet. But on the transitional “Moonraker” dials they didn’t adjust this yet, therefore the sub-dials are rather close to the text.?Most likely Rolex used the same cliché’s as they did for their 5-digit Daytona’s, which also explains why the font is the same on this prototype.?

Now over to the sub-dials themselves. Here too we can find the same font as one can find on the 16520 and 16528. But on the steel version there is an important difference to the finish of the rings. It now has the finish we have come to know from the 116520, ridged metal rather than black lacquer. This shift already took place in the mid 90’s on regular production pieces for the gold and bicolor models. Around this time Rolex had also tried out the silver chapter rings on a handful of prototype dials for the 16520.?

After getting in details, it is easy to forget the bigger picture; like the surface of the dial itself. The production of the automatic Daytona’s started off with a very glossy finish for the white ones known as “porcelain”. Due to high production costs and increased fragility Rolex opted for a matte variant instead. With the introduction of the 6-digit refs the glossy dial made a return; albeit not as white and shiny like the “Porcelain” one.?

On these prototypes, the looks weren’t of the utmost importance, hence it is no surprise they choose the simplest of methods; grené finish. Somewhat reminiscent of certain batches during the Valjoux Daytona era but a bit chalkier. Anyways way more matte than the standard production dials for 5- or 6-digit Daytona’s.?

Another important aspect are the markers. Not only did Rolex change the size of the markers in the new century, the luminescent material changed from luminova to super-luminova. Whilst the initial lume for the 5-digit Daytona’s already changed from tritium to luminova in 98. These prototype Moonraker dials feature tritium, therefore proofing they were developed pre-1998, so at least 2 years prior to the commercial introduction of the Cal. 4130 and the 1165xx it was housed in.?

Hands:

Just like the index, the hands were widened on the 6-digit Daytona’s. Yet, unlike the markers, the hands weren’t updated directly at the launch but some years later. Thus, the thin hands that are supplied on the Moonraker are less of an oddity than the smaller markers. The thing that might stand out the most are the red second- and counter-hands. Usually only seen on precious metal Daytona’s with so-called “racing dial”.?

Conclusion:

We are thrilled to have these prototypes side by side. Exceedingly rare as only 20 in steel and 5 in gold were supplied by Singer to Rolex, during a pivotal moment in the history of the Cosmograph. As per usual regarding prototypes, they are shrouded in mystery -which is part of the romance- and the literature is scarce. However, the “Moonrakers” have been published in Pucci ‘s “Daytona perpetual” book and I’d like to end with the text from that publication:?

The existing knowledge, a result of the studies carried out on the self-winding Cosmograph Daytona, is not only based on a passion that has been perpetuated for more than thirty years. These chronographs are rooted in excellence and originality that are highlighted in the production models alongside the research of distinctive and unique aspects that make collecting these watches so important. Therefore, it has been above all, a concerted effort. Firstly, the genius minds of both the designers and the watchmakers that created this winning watch and secondly, the patience and the attention from the influential collectors that kept the flame of passion for this incredible watch alight.?