Watch guide: Patek Philippe Grand Complication 3970E

With the watch market going crazy, there are just very few models from the top brands that remain ‘underrated’. It’s always interesting how one can argue that a specific model deserves more credit, whilst someone else doesn’t necessarily grasps the historical importance of it. Furthermore, it might be hard to convince somebody, let alone a regular non-watch geek, that a watch over 100K is undervalued. But in this guide, I will try to anyway! Welcome to the watch guide of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970E.

Forget about the Nautilus or Aquanaut for a second. Patek Philippe is known for “haute horlogerie” and have been stabilizing their position at the top of the market for over a century. But to get there in the first place, they went to great lengths and pioneered in many highly complicated, mechanical developments. One of these being the introduction of the very first perpetual calendar wristwatch ever, realized as early as 1925. It was clear the artisans of Patek Philippe were set out to accomplish great things. One of these astonishing wonders is the 3970E, where they combined the Perpetual Calendar with a Chronograph function. 

I will try to carefully explain why you should love this model. And I will do so by looking at its history to properly judge it in the correct timeframe. Obviously, we won’t leave you without explaining everything about this special reference, from its case to its hands and the evolution of different versions.

History: 

A chronograph function together with a perpetual calendar has been named by many the most important combination of complications. This family didn’t start with the 3970 so I’ll take you back to the beginning. I just mentioned the 1925 Perpetual Calendar wristwatch, but in fact the movement for this marvel was already completed before the turn of the 20th century. It wasn’t until the 20’s for this movement to be re-cased and sold. In that same decade, the first chronograph wristwatch from Patek first saw light. However, both complications were scarcely used, only for special pieces rather than produced in larger numbers. For this we had to wait for reference 130 and 1526 (respectively) regarding a series of the chronograph and perpetual calendar.

It wasn’t until the early 40’s for these 2 complications to be combined in a serially produced model. Any Patek Philippe aficionado knows the reference: 1518. But even people outside the world of watches might have heard of it, since a steel example fetched a record price when it was sold in 2014 for over 11 million dollars; making it than the most expensive wristwatch ever sold.

Back then, such highly complicated watches were usually on special order and very few other brands were able to execute and sell similar models. Patek’s 1518 was listed just shy of 2800 swiss Francs for a gold example, an astronomical asking price for a non-special-order piece. 

The successor was launched in the 50’s under reference 2499. A much-coveted watch in the auction industry and among collectors often mentioned as the most wearable grail piece Patek. High in demand but low in supply; approximately only 1 a month was produced over the course of 35 years, resulting in a rather high current value. The early 2499’s still featured the square pushers that we know from its predecessor but they switched to round pushers for the 2nd version, something you can also find on the reference that is in today’s spotlight: the 3970E. 

Between 1986 and 2004, different series were made with their own characteristics. We will shed light on that, as once again we will examine all parts individually of this masterpiece. 

Case:

Starting off with the case. We specifically mentioned 3970E, where the letter stands for the French word “Etanche” which means: waterproof. Yet the first 100 pieces that left the factory had a Snap-On case back and thus are not 3970E but merely 3970. From the 2nd series onwards, they fitted the 3970 with a screw-down case back and by doing so they finally accomplished the production of a waterproof Grand Complication. The 2nd series were factory fitted with a solid case back, whilst the 3rd series came with both a solid as well as a see-through case back. The final execution was solely delivered with the last mentiones see-through case back. 

To produce the cases, Patek choose their signature metals: precious. White, yellow or pink gold was used alongside Platinum examples. No steel 3970E has ever surfaced nor believed to be ever produced. The case measured 36mm, a tad smaller than both the 2499 as well as the 1518. The lugs are stepped and depending on the country it was delivered to; stamped with different hallmarks. The most noticeable and sought-after is the so-called “Big hallmark”.

The three-piece head itself is quite thick and sports a concave bezel. The side of the case features 4 correctors to set the different calendric features. As mentioned earlier on; the pushers are round and have a traditional placement at the 2 and 4 o’clock position. The crown is ribbed, to improve grip, and is adorned with the Calatrava cross.

Bracelet & Clasp:

The majority was fitted on a leather strap. There are a couple examples that feature a woven bracelet that is integrated to the case, making it not possible to replace it for leather as the lugs were completed removed to offer the most elegant design.

Movement:

The sapphire crystal allowed the appreciator of mechanics to enjoy the beauty of the movement in the 4th, 3rdand optionally but uncommon on the 2nd series. But even if you had a solid case back you’d probably expected the utmost quality for their flagship Grand Complication. Spot-on with the CH27-70Q, a Lemania based caliber. Obviously this Ebauche was modified, for example the addition of the perpetual calendar module, and finished plus decorated to the liking of the Patek artisans. Making it not only reliable but mouthwatering to look at as well. Pay attention to the exquisite chamfering and the Geneva stripes on the surface.

Dial & hands:

Few things are closer to perfection than the dial lay-out of the 3970. Surrounded by an open minute track we can find a lot going on in the center of the dial to display all the different functions, yet it remains a delight for the eye. Above the brand-name one can read the day and month in faceted apertures. The sub-dials at 3 and 9 are also lowered. The last mentioned featuring a chrono-minute counter as well as the leap-year indication. On the opposite part of the dial is the decentral seconds and 24-hour indication. Last but not least: the moon phase and date at the bottom. The text color is contrasting the dial and a lovely classic font is used. The numbers are all Arabic. 

Esthetically it’s easiest to differentiate the series by the hands and markers. Both the first and 2nd series come with leaf hands and stick markers. They change to pointy batons and matching hands for the 3rd series and the final execution. Platinum examples can feature diamond markers instead and only the platinum version is executed either with black or silvered dial. 

There are a few exceptions, like the one from Eric Clapton that was fitted with a Salmon colored dial and a Breguet number 12. Another possibly unique execution was found with the same dial configuration yet in black, one in platinum and another one in yellow gold. In 2013 Christies sold a very late 3970 in yellow gold with full Breguet numerals and hands. Unfortunately, I’m not allowed to share a picture from the current owner, but there also exists a platinum execution with Salmon dial and full Breguet numerals and matching handset. The same collector also owns a highly unusual example with lume, so maybe there are still some undiscovered treasures out there!  

Conclusion:

In the 2 decades the 3970E was in production, it established itself as the backbone of Patek’s highly complicated lines. A couple years after the turn of the century the production ceased and was followed by the way larger and less elegant 5970. I have had quite a couple of both references and every time I hold them side by side I can’t wrap my head around the fact the 5970 is higher in price. I hope after checking this guide, the watch-community will have a better understanding of the historical importance and sheer beauty of this Patek Philippe with Perpetual Calendar, Moon phase and chronograph function. For some this doesn’t yet qualify for the title “Grand Complication”, even though Patek claims it is, regardless for me this watch is “Grand appreciation”!