THE WAGES OF VEHICLE TRAFFIC AT THE CHELLAH IN RABAT, MOROCCO

April 9, 2017 in Rabat, Morocco- The ramparts circling the historic Chellah, founded during Phoenician times, if not earlier, and housing Roman and Islamic ruins, are now restored. Historic storks' nests are removed and gone, despite storks having spiritual significance in Morocco and the proximity of saintly shrines within and just outside the Chellah walls. The walls are restored to an ideal state not showing their history or decay. Also gone or reduced in size and number are vernacular or clandestine housing near small farms and portions of the greenery that defined this area around the ramparts. The wild garden included plants with medicinal value and edible greens.

The bypass just behind me as I take this photo with a wide angle lens setting may likely bring noise, rumble, and air pollution to this centuries old classified historic monument, and, perhaps, create vehicle traffic that will kill the birds that nest and forage here beside the storks. The birds include bee eaters, marsh harriers, and egrets, among many other local and migrating I have photo documented over a few years, despite fending off drunk men, the risk of encountering thieves, and tramping through thick mud. The area just south of the Chellah is a liminal space not good for single ladies to traverse, though one occasionally sees shepherds with sheep flocks and families picnicking among spring flowers during the afternoon. In this area I have documented a tagged female ibis here in spring 2016, and ibis flocks still fly overhead in 2017. Other wildlife include tortoises.

Migrating birds primarily come from Europe and are protected by the Bonn Convention or the Convention on the Conservation of Migratory Species of Wild Animals (CMS). Morocco has been a Party of CMS since 1993 The Moroccan government has additionally ratified a law to protect wildlife: the Moroccan Decree or Dahir no. 1-10-84 of December 10, 2012. Another law to protect the landscaping frame around historic monuments has yet to be ratified.

The tagged female ibis was foraging for food with other waders just next to the building of the rocade or bypass that will shunt vehicle traffic away from downtown Rabat and link to the city of Salé across the river Bou Regreg (Bouregreg). The highway will pass through fields on the Salé side. The Bou Regreg also has fish locals eat, though the river is reportedly polluted and, on my walk along it, I found a run off with what smelled like sewage. The Chellah is near what looks to be a clandestine town or shantytown, Douar Doum, walls heavy with sports street art, in addition to relatively more lavish villas of Yousufiyya nearly overlooking the river.

The building of the bypass may have pushed birds of prey into the new city of Rabat, where I have noticed many nesting and foraging throughout the high rises and alongside colonies of swifts and other birds. Morocco has seen an up-tick in personal vehicle ownership, especially among females, and of Volkswagen automobiles, a maker that has recently weathered an emissions and, thus, air pollution scandal. Additional photos at https://twitter.com/cdapelian and my personal collection.

One also has to wonder if the vibrations, exhaust fumes, and noise will affect the Chellah and its protective frame and ecology structurally and otherwise.....