Vibrant Venice: Bellinis, boat-hopping and the Biennale

APERITIVO

The most effective way to settle into a mini-break anywhere - but especially Italy - is with a glass of the good stuff. Head to Cantine Già Schiavi, a legendary wine bar-come-hangout and order a glass of local Prosecco with a plate of ‘Cicchetti’ - slices of bread adorned with lagoon delights such as baccala mantecato (whipped salt cod), sarde in saor (a wondrous combination of fried sardines and onions) and polpo (octopus). Other vibe-dependable hotspots include All’Arco, Vino Vero, and Cantina Do Mori. These places are real Venetian ‘bacaro’ - think no tables, usually no menus and carefree Italians spilling out onto the side canal streets with a bottle of wine in hand. If after a day of travel you’re looking for something more refined head to Hemingway’s old haunt, Harry’s Bar. Order a Bellini, eat the delicate finger sandwiches (egg and anchovy, a revolution) and let them persuade you to stay for the creamy risotto alla Cipriani.?

STAY

Whether it’s an old-world palazzo on the Grand Canal, a charming B&B alongside a quiet side canal or a family run hotel on the Lido, most places in Venice have extraordinary character. For Venetian opulence The Gritti Palace, a meticulously restored 15th Century palazzo, is the place to book. Fresh flowers, soft sheets and deep marble bathtubs (lined with Acqua di Parma toiletries) will make leaving the hotel for dinner a struggle. Luckily, that won’t be a problem - eat upscale seasonal fare with one of the best views of the Grand Canal from the hotel restaurant, Club Del Doge. In the lively Cannaregio area, Hotel Antico Doge is a charming little gem of a hotel. Traditional Venetian furnishings invite you to relax while watching gondolas glide by on the small canal beside the hotel. For value-for-money Locando Leon Bianco offers simple, elegant rooms that look out onto the Rialto market. It’s one of those increasingly rare places where you feel owners Enrico and Luca genuinely want you to have a wonderful stay.

Don’t be afraid to leave the main island and head to islands like Murano, Burano and the Lido - easily accessible by Vaporetto and a welcome relief from the hustle of the city centre. The Belmond Hotel Cipriani on Giudecca island (5-minutes by boat from St Mark’s) is a place of unapologetic grandeur. Step onto the private dock and head straight to Gabbiano bar - a Clooney favourite - before taking a dip in the olympic size saltwater pool. On the Lido, Villa Contarini is a warm and welcoming B&B that feels more like a home than a hotel. A relaxed atmosphere means swimming on the nearby beach before breakfast is no problem and with the convenient location - a short ferry from Arsenale - you’ll be admiring works at the Biennale while others are still fighting to get through the crowds in St Mark’s.

EAT

Paradiso Perduto is a lost paradise you feel lucky to have found when you walk into this lively locals spot. Go for lunch and order the antipasto di pesce, a spectacular introduction to local delicacies such as seppioline fritte con polenta (fried cuttlefish) and folpetti (baby octopus). Service is relaxed and you’ll notice the waiters merrily drinking red wine from a chipped tumbler while taking orders. For the veg lovers, La Zucca is a must. The daily-changing menu suggests everything served was bought that morning, and you can tell. The sformato di zucca (pumpkin flan) is legendary and the lasagne di carciofi (artichoke lasagne) is so good you’ll wish you ordered two. If the sun is soaking the city, have lunch on the terrace of the Hotel Monaco. The view overlooking the Salute helps one understand where Monet got his inspiration.?

Antiche Carampane for dinner is a real treat. From its location, tucked away in the long Venetian backstreets, to the owner Francesco and his mother who will show you a menu if you insist but prefer to serve you the freshest delicacies from the morning market. If they have moeche (softshell crabs), order them. Alla Testiere is an elegant spot for foodies in the know. With just nine tables you need to pre-book, but it’s worth it for the creative menu and fantastic wine list. L'Osteria di Santa Marina should also be on your list. The service is genuine and the food a welcome twist on Venetian classics. The carpaccio di capesante con fiocchi di fegato grasso (scallop carpaccio with foie gras) and linguine al ragù di granciporro (crab linguine) are both exquisite. If you’re looking for something close to the Biennale, Al Covo is a much-loved locals spot conveniently close to the action and a great option for lunch or dinner. The owner Cesare has been known to personally row to neighboring island Sant’ Erasmo to pick artichokes in time for lunch and the puddings are perfect tira-mi-su’s.

DISCOVER

The Biennale this year promises to be exceptional. Heavy on female surrealists, “The Milk of Dreams” curated by Cecile Alemani will include more than 1,000 works and of the 213 featured artists, 180 of them have never before shown at the Venice Biennale. But there’s more (and no, I’m not talking about Titian or Tintoretto).?

Take an hour out for Ca’ Rezzonico, mainly to stand in front of Canaletto’s Il rio dei Mendicanti, a mesmerising examination of life in Venice in the late 17th Century. Don’t leave before you’ve been upstairs to the Pinacoteca Egidio Martini - if only to gaze at Caffi’s Veduca di Roma dal Pincio. At Ca’ Pesaro, thematically curated rooms encourage you to compare artists rarely exhibited in such close proximity. Give yourself enough time to spend a quiet moment with Rodin’s Pensatore and Sorolla’s Cucendo la Vela. If you’re lucky enough to be in the city on a quiet day, it is worth seeing the Triumphal Quadriga, the horses of Basilica di San Marco - it’s hard to know what’s more impressive, the story of these magnificent beasts or their beauty.?

For something a little different, take a trip with the local Venetian fisherman of Bragozzo Rosa dei Venti. Learn about lagoon produce and listen to devilish stories from Manuel over cold white wine while he cooks freshly caught moeche fritte onboard (his fried softshell crab is the stuff of legends).

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The Venice Biennale takes place from April 23 to November 27, day entrance costs €20.

Double rooms at the Gritti Palace start from €900 and from €200 at Locando Leon Bianco. Further information on Bragozzo Rosa Dei Venti can be found on their website https://bragozzorosadeiventi.com/?