A Valentine to Potato Chips I've Loved

Today's article was inspired by an article I came across in Smithsonian Magazine, called "How The Potato Chip Took Over America" - by Brandon Tensly (linked?HERE.) The article discusses a chef named George Crum (alternately George Speck,) a descendant of Native Americans and African Americans who worked at Moon's Lake House in Saratoga Springs, NY, during the 19th century. The article references what came to be known as Saratoga Chips, but also mentions Laura Scudder, who marketed her freshness-dated chips as "the noisiest chips in the world" and Leonard Japp, a Chicago-based chef who, as rumor has it, created a potato chip specifically for Al Capone who had tasted them in Saratoga Springs.

So please indulge me as I take a walk down memory lane, remembering some of my favorite potato chips.

Growing up in Chicago, I loved Jay's Barbeque Potato Chips. At some point, my father mentioned that they used to be called Japp's - until WWII sentiments prodded the manufacturers to change the name to something perceived to be more neutral. It's true; the name was changed from Japp's to Jays after the 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor. The company was founded in 1927 by Leonard Japp and was a family-owned company; it's now operated by Snyders of Hanover - they have committed to only selling the product in the midwest. Consequently, I've been known to hand-carry several bags back to California from Chicago.

My first meal in New Orleans was at Galatoire's, and their Souffle Potatoes were on the menu that day. (If they don't puff correctly on a given day, they are not served.) I would describe these as an upscale spin on Saratoga Chips; the potatoes are sliced a little thicker, then fried at a relatively low temperature until they puff. They are then held and fried for a second time at a higher temperature, just before serving. This video, from the vintage PBS show Great Chefs of New Orleans, demonstrates the technique.

As a young bride, one of our favorite restaurants was Binyon's in Chicago - and Saratoga Chips was one of their featured side dishes. Sliced potatoes were fried until crisp, and served in a basket. At the time I had no idea about the history of Saratoga Chips - all I knew was that they were delicious! Years later another Chicago restaurant created a really tasty version of this dish - West Town Tavern tossed Saratoga Chips with balsamic syrup, white truffle oil, fresh chopped rosemary, and grated parmesan. Talk about Umami! I'm so glad to have this recipe so I can taste these chips in real life - not only in my memories.

Recipe: West Town Tavern Potato Chips