The Vagabond Grape: Unpicking Merlot's Regional Reputations

Most grape varieties are immediately recognisable by their key regions: Sancerre, Hermitage, Rioja and the rest. So why does Merlot, one of the world’s most popular varieties, have a less strong association with its premium regions?

With our Global Merlot Masters returning for 2023, we’re keen to dispel the myth that Merlot is a less distinctive, lower quality grape. But first we’ve been looking at how Merlot got this ‘homeless’ reputation, and what opportunities producers have to fight back.

Regional associations are usually immediate. For many varieties, the plantings are concentrated enough that there is no argument: Albari?o is undeniably Galician, Nebbiolo is Piedmontese through and through and Gamay is almost inseparable from Beaujolais. Where there is more geographic spread, the grapes tend to be less important, and often have the decency to change name for each core region. Grenache may dominate in the Southern Rh?ne, for instance, but there is still space for Garnacha in Priorat, and Cannonau in Sardinia. Even for the international – read French – varieties, there is an iconic Old World homeland, and often a handful of hotspots around the global.

But Merlot somehow stands apart. It is among the most planted and most popular varieties in the world, yet its identity is less secure, and strangely homeless. Why doesn’t the famous red grape have a prime location like its rivals? And where might producers position themselves to get around its reputational baggage.

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The French heritage

Its origins are not a mystery, admittedly. The story of Merlot points back to Bordeaux, and to this day some of the finest and most expensive examples are to be found there. The top wines of Pomerol and St. émilion, in particular, have price tags that put them alongside Burgundy and the Médoc. Thus, for us in the trade, Merlot is fairly obviously a product of Bordeaux. Though initially less widely planted, it is now responsible for two thirds of the region’s area under vine. The producers simply could not operate without Merlot, which makes it rather strange that the brand association does not cut through.

Unfortunately for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon takes much of the limelight. Though its plantings in Bordeaux are well under half those of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon seems to dominate the conversation. In most articles, Cabernet is mentioned first, and search results for “Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux” are 25% higher than “Merlot Bordeaux”. Even the official Bordeaux website seems to attach a symbolic importance: Cabernet Sauvignon is described as “the traditional grape variety of the Bordeaux vineyards” while Merlot is listed as “the most common grape variety in Bordeaux”. Though you can’t deny the facts of acreage, one is given the emotional heft of tradition.

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New World success

If there isn’t a strong Old World association, one alternative is to establish a stronghold outside the ancestral home. After all, Merlot’s fellow Bordeaux varieties have thrived beyond the motherland. Though Cahors sells on being the ancestral home of Malbec, these days the grape is most closely associated with Mendoza. Likewise Carmenère is most famous away from France, in Chile’s Central Valley. Could Merlot repeat this feat and make a new home across the waters?

It is possible, but the case is weaker for Merlot than many others. The weighty authority on all things ampelographic, Wine Grapes, neatly summarises the problem: “it would be quicker and easier to say where Merlot is not grown than to list the many regions and countries in which it has been planted.” The issue is not that Merlot lacks overseas plantings, but quite the reverse. With so many areas producing the variety, several of them known for high quality, no single region can emerge as the benchmark flagbearer. It means that Merlot is an instantly recognisable grape the world over, but fame poses a problem for market positioning.

A ‘medium’ reputation

Merlot’s struggle to find an instantly recognisable stronghold is indicative of its broader struggles: a sense that it is indistinct, too easy-going for its own good. It starts with the grape itself.

For those of us who have been through the wine education mill, Merlot may be the most middle-of-the-road variety studied. Even in samples of equal quality, it is structurally less dynamic, and perhaps more approachable, than rivals. Its structural elements rarely jut out on the palate, with excesses of tannin or acidity a rarity, and body and alcohol rarely bold enough to leap out. Even the flavour profiles tend towards the red and black fruits that are typical for red wines. Though Merlot can offer some distinctive green notes of eucalyptus, there is nothing in the profile as bold as, for instance, the honeyed petrol of aged Riesling or the delicate rose aromas in Nebbiolo. It has helped create a global reputation for Merlot, but one that often emphasises its ease to approach rather than a distinctive appeal.

This is particularly important when the global spread of Merlot is considered. These characteristics can be recreated the world over, to create a dependable style. Crucially, to do this is relatively cheap and easy. As an early ripening variety, it can withstand cooler climates than Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, while its acidity is less of a troublemaker than in Pinot Noir (especially at lower price points). Cheaply made Merlot, with the above approachable characteristics can be easily replicated and put on supermarket shelves and wine lists all over the world. The commercial potential of this is clear, but that can come at the cost of a distinctive identity

In the film Sideways, often accused of putting the final nail in the coffin of Merlot’s reputation, there is no direct attack on the variety. However, the main character’s thoughts on Pinot Noir say it all:

“Only when someone has taken the time to truly understand its potential can Pinot be coaxed into its fullest expression. And when that happens, its flavors are the most haunting and brilliant and subtle and thrilling and ancient on the planet.”

Pinot Noir may require nurture, but the rewards are painted in transcendent language. No such praise comes the way of Merlot. That omission is a great summary for the problems the grape faces; it is too easy, too crowd-pleasing and too indistinct to compete with the other noble varieties.

Where next?

As unrepentant fans of Merlot, we still want to see it better represented and more widely loved in the wine trade. We certainly think our competitions are a great way to reach new drinkers, who often look at grape variety and awards as key influencers. But there are plenty of causes for ?

In its French homeland, Bordeaux is increasingly marketing itself beyond the Médoc. Though these wines are still vital to its success, for too long they have dominated the conversation – probably since their great marketing coup of 1855. There are now active efforts to promote the less iconic styles: sparkling, rosé, sweet and the Merlot based blends. Although this will benefit the fine wines of Pomerol and St. émilion, it is particularly exciting for the smaller, value-mined satellite appellations. If Bordeaux can shake off its expensive image, Merlot based reds will be a main beneficiary, and so can push back against the narrative that Cabernet Sauvignon is the Bordeaux grape.

Elsewhere, however, the fight is for new territory rather than settling old rivalries. While well established regions are still key players, the world of wine is increasingly uncovering areas with untapped commercial potential. The trendier side of the industry is known for pushing beyond expected regions, with Eastern Europe, Mediterranean islands and the Levant all receiving increased attention in recent years. All have great potential for Merlot. Although indigenous varieties are often pushed to the front when developing these regional reputations, there is space for established varieties to participate as well. You only need look at Supertuscans to see the potential, as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot developed an international reputation right under the nose of Sangiovese. With an open minded, increasingly global market, Merlot has opportunities to seize new ground and counteract the reputation of a cheap, generic red.

Finally, the information era can aid consumers in their discoveries. The rise of mobile technology, including wine apps, means that consumers have huge amounts of data at their fingertips, 24/7. Though the label on the bottle or the menu on the table are still the first resource for drinkers, a quick search will usually reveal much more. For varietally labelled bottles, this information can be the assurance customers need. Rather than prejudge a wine based on its variety, they may look at winemaking information, scores and awards to inform that choice. If the wine is regionally labelled, on the other hand, this additional information may be the only clue that a quality bottle is, in fact, Merlot based. Either way, a deeper understanding allows consumers to move beyond a simple varietal prejudice.