UTTRAKHAND - HUB OF BAST FIBERS

In Uttarakhand there are around forty different kinds of plant origin fibers available, only a few are found to grow in abundance and are linked intrinsically to the tribal communities as part of the living craft cultures. While some level of economic activity is being undertaken centered on these fibers, pilot case studies have demonstrated the potential for industrialization and commercialization of the sector. Few of them are: Agave Cantala (Rambans), Grewia optiva (Bhimal), Cannabis sativa (Industiral Hemp), Bharbar, Kansi, Munj, Maloo, Pateri and Stinging nettle.

Uttaranchal became the 27th state of the country on 9th Nov’ 2000.The new state represents the high aspirations of its people for their all-around socio-economic development. The state forms part of Central Himalayas. Uttaranchal has an area of 53,483 sq.km (which is 1.67% of the total land-area) spread over 13 districts having a total population of 85 lakhs (Uttaranchal Bamboo and Fibre Development Board, 2009). The state has 92.57% area as hilly and only 7.43% as plains.

NETTLE STINGING (URTICADIOICA L.)

The nettle stinging (Urticadioica L.) is a perennial plant that contains unlignified, sclerenchymatic fibres in the bark. Several species of the nettle family (Urticaceae) produce bast fibres similar to flax, and many of these species have been used to produce fibre for making textiles and clothing for thousands of years. The three main fibre producing species are European nettle, Ramie and Himalayan nettle. European nettle is difficult to grow commercially. Ramie, on the other hand, produces a fine fibre that is produced commercially in China and Japan. Himalayan nettle is a large nettle grown mainly in the Himalayan region. In all these species, the fibre comes from the stem and, incidentally, there is no sting left in the extracted fibre.

It is thought that nettle fibre has been used to make thread and fabric as far back as 2000 years. Before the discovery of cotton nettle has been used throughout Europe as the fabric of choice for better garment and linens. Inventions of manmade fibres have led to its abandonment as a source of textile. Dunsmore (2003) has opined that European nettle was used in the early world wars because of its similarities to cotton, which was unavailable at the time. As it is a potential replacement for cotton, it has a wide variety of uses. It is produced via the same method as cotton which is called "cottonising" and this is a physio-chemical method.

Bhimal?(Grewia optiva)

Bhimal?(Grewia optiva) is an imperishable, evergreen tree that contains unlignified, sclerenchymatic fibers in the bark. Several species of the bhimal family (Malvaceae) produce bast fibers similar to flax, and many of these species have been used to produce fiber for making textiles and clothing for thousands of years. The Himalayan Grewia Optiva fibre is one such natural fiber that is?drawn out by processing shoots of Grewia optiva tree. Grewia is a presently acknowledging species of flowering plant in the family?Malvaceae, indigenous to the Indian Subcontinent.?It has many resemblances with and may be a synonym of?Grewia optiva. In all these species, the fiber comes from the stem and, incidentally, there is no sting left in the extracted fiber.

In the ancient time period Kumaon is known for tendency towards clothes, through the outfit of poor rural folks and those of feudal were different. Local people in the ancient to medieval times used Bhimal (Grewia optiva) fiber to make inexpensive attire for themselves. The turning point in garments came in the society after the First World War when clothes are manufactured from miles started taking place in Kumaon marts and markets. Inventions of manmade fibers have led to its abandonment as a source of textile.

One more factor in favour of both fibers is environmentally sustainable. It can be grown very easily. It requires very less water and rare utilization of pesticides. In comparison Cotton uses more hazardous pesticides than any other crop. Cotton even though is natural fibre but growing cotton is not at all environment friendly.

Today’s fashion-conscious consumer demands variety in textile products. Moreover, textile consumer is concerned with high performance, low cost and aesthetic appearance of fabric. Fibres properties determine the behaviour of the textiles at all stage of processing and manufacturing. It also determines the performance characteristics of yarn and fabric in use. There are a number of fibres properties which can influence the quality of the yarn. Fibres testing becomes all the more important for natural fibres because a lot of variation is found in these fibres affecting the quality of yarn as well as fabrics.