An update: same pear different cheddar and where are all the balanced journalists?

We’ve given away plenty of column inches in Fine Food Digest this month to the welcome news that Mrs Kirkham’s cheese production has restarted. I’ve seen the same sort of coverage in The Grocer but interestingly less coverage in the consumer press, in print or online.? And that pisses me off.? Why? Just before Christmas the pages of the Mail Online and its naive media chums were posting headlines exclaiming that not only would Mrs Kirkham’s cheese harm you, but all unpasteurised cheese would too.? And you shouldn’t buy artisan cheese from a deli, as that was almost certainly poison. One headline pushed it too far by including the words ‘person died’ with absolutely no evidence, proof, or connection to food, let alone the cheese under investigation.

None of those media channels have the decency to now cover the story to its conclusion, with the outcome being that Kirkham’s cheese is now safe, well-made (tastes bloody good too) and whilst there were some technical issues, had nothing to do with any illness or death.? The only accurate words were ‘Cheese scare’.? That’s all it was: stirring up the ‘thank god my cheese is made by a robot’ brigade using scare-tactics to increase online ad sales.?

For the sake of my own balance there was a more positive turophile-led story on the same site last month. It was gentle relief to absorb some good old-fashioned ‘look at me’ PR by Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi, who claimed that his restaurant cheeseboards are now 50% British, the other half being French and Italian.? Read the piece online.

The timing couldn’t have been better given my previous missive which included a rallying call to improve the cheese course offered in foodservice countrywide.? The course that is often the poor relation on most menus, plagued with wastage issues and scant training for those serving it.

The piece included welcome praise for our homegrown cheese from Monsieur Bosi, although that is not altogether surprising to those of us already invested in the British artisan cheese scene. But the ripe pear I was consuming with a different chunk of cheddar this time: Tom Calver’s best, caught in my throat again as I re-read his declaration that Davidstow cheddar was better than a 48-month-old Comte.? Excuse the clumsy Breaking Bad analogy, but at best Davidstow is a gateway-cheddar, on an essential journey to more complicated, flavoursome and fulfilling things: just like my piece of Westcombe.

Nonetheless the sentiment behind this slightly sensationalist piece is laudable.? Join our movement to improve cheese in food-service.? Retailers: why not approach your local pub, restaurant or hotel and work with them on supply & wastage, how to serve, and cheese chat to educate the diner. You’ll be sure to let them know that unpasteurised cheese and cheese made by the little people will most likely knock ‘em dead.