Untold Story about Mount Nun Expedition 7134m - Rescue 2023
In August 2023 A team led by Stanzin Norboo accompanied by guides Jigmet Tharchin , Rigzin A. and Phuntsog Namgyal on an expedition to the Nun mountain in Ladakh. The team including climbers Dr. Varuna Raina , Ms. Kabak Yano and Lipsa from various parts of India moved to Camp 3 at an elevation of 6450m on 9th August 2023.
The path from Camp 2 to Camp 3 was challenging with a steep incline of 55 degrees. Upon reaching Camp 3 around 12:30 pm on 10th August 2023 the team set up camp at an elevation of 6400m sharing the space with two foreign climbers guided by Darjeeling Guide.
While resting in the two tents the weather suddenly worsened bringing in very cold temperatures and light snow. This unexpected change made summiting seem improbable especially considering the dangerous avalanche-prone terrain between Camps 2 and 3. To assess the weather conditions the team contacted the meteorological department in Ka Lotus, Srinagar whose guidance proved to be crucial in navigating the challenging situation.
At Camp 3 of Nun we were pleasantly surprised to find good phone and internet connections courtesy of Jio and Airtel. After contacting Ka Lotus, the weather worsened rapidly with distant thunder and lightning. Originally planning to start our final summit push at 10 pm weather fluctuations forced us to delay until 12:40 pm.
Phuntsog led the way with Kabak Yono known for her determination and fame in Arunachal Pradesh. Jigmet followed with Dr. Varuna and I assisted guide Ms. Lipsa while Stanzin ensured smooth progress showcasing excellent leadership qualities.
As we progressed, Ms. Lipsa acknowledging her limits opted out of the summit attempt. Stanzin escorted her back to Summit Camp 3 promising to rejoin us later. The route from Camp 3 to the Summit featured significant crevasses some more than 50m deep, a sight both intimidating and awe-inspiring. The path along the cornice ridge approximately 150m long was nerve-wracking due to the cracking ice sounds and biting cold winds. Stanzin rejoined us and suggested I lead alongside Phuntsog. As we neared the peak, a rocky path awaited demanding utmost caution while navigating the challenging mix of ice and rock.
The rocky face of Nun poses immense challenges especially as it transitions from ice to rock, creating slippery conditions demanding extreme caution. Phuntsog and I meticulously checked each anchor for secure fitting in the snow. Approaching the rocky ice section facing a 60-degree slope of about 10m required intense effort utilizing jumaring for support. It was an exceptionally demanding task.
Around 4:50 am, Phuntsog and I observed Stanzin seemingly detached from the fixed rope rolling about 40m. Panic set in until Jigmet clarified via walkie-talkie that it was Stanzin's helmet not him. Our immediate focus shifted to rescuing him but being at a steep section descending took around 30 minutes as accommodating other climber on the rope was challenging, risking its integrity.
Phuntsog and I began the descent but the weight on the rope from Kabak and Varuna slowed us. We had to strategize to prevent the rope from breaking. Guiding Kabak to switch from jumaring to a descending device was tough and after 30 minutes, we reached Stanzin bleeding and unconscious, speaking incoherently. Varuna, our group's doctor highlighted the urgency of evacuating him suspecting internal bleeding.
Without delay, we commenced a difficult descent from 6950m to 4500m starting at 5:30 am relentlessly attempting to contact the insurance company and administrative services. Unfortunately, In our Country lacks a robust mountaineering rescue setup. Jigmet and Varuna persistently contacted various departments while I attempted to signal for rescue. Despite spotting a helicopter, we knew bringing Stanzin down to lower ground was imperative even if the helicopter arrived.
Dr. Varuna's relentless efforts brought positive news of a helicopter rescue coordinated by the Indian army. Jigmet, stationed at camp 3, ensured timely communication and network functionality. As the rest of the team descended from camp 3 to camp 2 at an elevation of 5400m, Stanzin, mentally fatigued, struggled to walk. We used emergency mats to safely transport him down the steep slope to camp 2. Sherpa Ang Dendi joined midway between camps 2 and 3, aiding Stanzin's descent. Phuntsog, Dendi, and I constructed a helicopter landing pad with stones. Though saddened by a delayed rescue scheduled for August 11, 2023, we take pride in our team's display of unity and courage, proving mountaineering as a collective effort. While there are numerous stories, this experience has taught us the values of mutual aid, teamwork, unity, and resilience in challenging times.
The Nun Expedition comprised 10 climbers and 8 mountain guides; some members withdrew due to physical constraints, a decision we respected. Grateful to the Indian Air Force team, they successfully rescued Stanzin on August 11, 2023, at 6:00 am from Nun basecamp. Stanzin has recovered well, and we're preparing for the upcoming Nun Kun expedition in the 2024 season. | Chow Expeditions