Under the spell of sensational Seville

The superlatives do escape me when I try and think of ways to quantify compact and gorgeous Seville. They somehow just don’t feel enough. I often wonder how other people feel or have felt about the place during or after their visit there. It’s a dynamo of a place in the sense that it isn’t all that big, but it is packed so tightly with heritage, culture, lifestyle, architecture, history and its very own, unique identity that I yearned for it to be my own secret place.

I can’t apologise for this, and while it takes nothing away from all other Spanish cities I have visited, which are all wonderful places, Seville is my favourite hands down, and Andalusia is my favourite Spanish region.

Though it is a bit of a pig to fly into for the international tourist (since there are few international flights directly into the city) The high speed rail connections to and from Santa Justa Train Station makes it very easy to get here from other parts of Spain, as well as reasonably affordable with some forward planning. With the expansion of the high speed network being rolled out too, it will become even easier to get to other parts of Andalusia and the country’s other major destinations relatively quickly. That’s if you can tear yourself away from here, of course.

There is an abundance of sun that bathes the city. Even in November (despite a chill in the air first thing) there is plenty of sunshine to keep the ever present orange trees in bloom. It’s a youthful place due to the presence of prominent Seville University. The confidence that seems to permeate the air is the like that can only be quantified by the French phrase ‘je ne sais quoi.’

So many great operas have made Seville their backdrop. You can wander the streets and buildings that form the backdrop of Rossini’s ‘Barber of Seville’ and Mozart’s ‘Don Juan’, to name but a few. It provides a stunning backdrop for film and TV even now; The Alcázar is prominent as the filming location for the water gardens and palaces of Dorne in Game of Thrones. The former Tabaco factory is now one of the major buildings for the University of Seville but is also famous for its role in Bizet’s opera ‘Carmen’. Even in books, Seville’s streets and monuments come to life. Dan Brown couldn’t resist the city’s charms, the final acts of his first book ‘Digital Fortress’ are set in the Andalusian capital. It feels dreamlike at times. It feels familiar, with plenty of stories and plenty of corridors that give you another point of view on the place.

?If Seville was to be quantified by rhythm, it would be to the strings of the Spanish guitar and the pulsating beating of feet that signify the flamenco. It is quite possible to catch a quality and affordable flamenco show in Seville (aside from street performers outside the main attractions). Try Casa de la Memoria; for its intimate setting (seats only 100 people) and up close performances. It’s incredibly energetic, evocative and passionate, with plenty of places close by to grab a bite to eat before or after the show. Shows tend to last around an hours, with dances and solo guitar performances. Flamenco is very energetic, so you can’t blame the dancers for taking a bit of a break between sets.

Seville’s oldest bakery, La Campana is literally around the corner from Casa de la Memoria and is worth a look, if not for the window displays but also for the selection of cakes, sandwiches, pastries, snacks and biscuits. So pull up a chair al fresco and watch life in this city unfold in front of your eyes.

The star attractions of the city are undoubtedly the Cathedral, Giralda and the Alcázar, which forms part of the official suite of royal residences throughout the country. You may want to take your time with these, rather than pack them both into a single day, and do try and make the effort to visit during quieter moments in the day (on opening), so you can appreciate them and enjoy them for a little while before hordes of tour groups arrive armed with their ungodly selfie sticks. There is something about having places like these near enough to oneself for a little while. The silence somehow sounds different here.

Seville Cathedral is an amazing example of the changing forms of a building as a result of the ruling force in the city over its ages. It is built on the site of a former mosque which stood there during the rule of the Moors. It took over 100 years to build and is one of the world’s most impressive and largest cathedrals. The remains of Christopher Columbus are interred here in an impressive tomb and monument to the explorer. Painstaking analysis of the remains has concluded that they are Columbus’, after years of debate, confusion and conspiracy theories had suggested other locations where they may have been buried. You’ll be treated to some impressive examples of art by famous Spanish masters Goya and Murillo as well as the staggering nave and the vastness and height of the internal structure.

Towering and ever present on the Seville skyline, the Giralda is ornate and an absolute beauty in a city full of beauties. It is a relatively gentle climb to the top of the tower, up 35 ramps that were built so that mounted guards could ride to the top of the tower. The views at the top (and on your way up through the many windows) are spectacular and there is plenty of Gothic and Moorish detailing to appreciate as you ascend. The Giralda was the minaret of the former mosque before the conquest of the city by the Christians. It was retained as the tower for the cathedral with additions post conquest.

Exiting Seville Cathedral is a chance to linger and marvel still at the beauty of the place. The Patio de los Naranjos is the only other part to have survived from the Moorish mosque, where people would complete ritual washing before entering the mosque. The fountain trickles and the rows of orange trees create a tranquil and fragrant foreground to the dominant tower and cathedral. At the time of visiting, the admission to Seville Cathedral included entry into (and up) the Giralda.

?If you have a real interest in the collision of architecture with differing faiths through the ages and the fascinating history of this part of Spain, a visit to Cordoba’s Cathedral (with its forest of arches) is definitely for you, and it can be reached in about 45 minutes by high speed rail.?

Again, I find that the superlatives are redundant when it comes to describing the Alcázar. TheRomans were the first to create a residence on the site for the city’s rulers. Walking around the Alcázar will give you this sense of travelling through the ages of Roman Hispalis, Moorish Ishbilia and Christian Seville, since the various rulers of the region continued to add and expand on the palace, gardens and the fortifications, however the vast majority of what makes up the Alcázar today is from after the Reconquest. Regardless, it’s probably one of the best examples of Mudéjar architecture in all of Spain.??

The Alcázar is an official residence for the Spanish Royal Family. It is possible to view these areas of the palace through a separate ticket, with 30 minute guided tours.

The gardens are stunning and a place you can just sit in peace to the sound of flowing water and birds chirping while you let the sun’s rays rejuvenate you. There are plenty of pools, water features, flower beds and ornate benches with tiled patterns of the like you will have seen throughout the Alcázar. The elevated gallery gives you a great sense of the expanse of the gardens on both sides of the wall. There is even a fun little maze to get lost in and a cafeteria from where you can appreciate the gardens and the peacocks from.

Seville has plenty of parks and gardens for you to enjoy over the course of your visit. As if the city wasn’t gorgeous enough, Plaza de Espa?a and the surrounding parks and gardens up the ante, and are full people cycling, roller blading and running, strolling and romancing. To be honest, Seville does have a very romantic air about it, and it’s no more apparent than in and around the Plaza de Espa?a. Despite its appearance, it is a relatively new construction, and was built as part of the Ibero – American Exposition in 1929, but is has its place among the grand and old and the hearts of locals and tourists alike.???

Barrio Santa Cruz just begs for you to get lost in among is narrow alleyways, corridors, courtyards and stately buildings. The former Jewish Quarter is hours of fun and a host of picture postcard photo opportunities. It’s probably your best option for decent pit stops or dining options too, with lots of Spanish and regional offerings for the curious foodie. There are some truly fantastic places to stay, tucked away in the alleyways of this amazing part of the city too.

?I know I have focussed on the obvious here; the beautiful parks, the gorgeous cathedral and the stunning palace, but I was probably never going to achieve what I would have liked to through this post. The truth is Seville lingers after you have gone. It casts a spell on you through its combination of sunshine, sights, history and confidence. All of these make it a perfect place for the solo traveller to start or end a Spanish odyssey, or a short break where reality can wait while you star in your own epic adventure. ???