Unclimbed Peaks Conquered: Japanese Climbers Rewrite History in Pakistan’s Hindu Raj

Nestled in the breathtaking Hindu Raj mountain range of northern Pakistan lies a peak that has long intrigued mountaineers worldwide—Thui II. Rising to 6,523 meters, this remote and formidable giant had only been climbed once before, in 1978. However, in September 2023, three Japanese climbers made history by achieving the first ascent of its west face in pure alpine style, marking one of the most remarkable climbing feats of the year.

Thui II: A Mountain of Challenges and Triumphs

Thui II is located in the Hindu Raj, a lesser-known range situated between the Hindu Kush and Karakoram mountains. Its steep walls and remote location make it a true challenge for climbers. The peak was first summited in 1978 by a British team led by Nick Tritton. That expedition tackled the southeast ridge, a feat that required six arduous days. Following their summit, the climbers endured a harrowing descent in deteriorating weather, highlighting the extreme conditions of this isolated peak.

Decades later, in 2023, Japanese climbers Yudai Suzuki, Yuu Nishida, and Kei Narita took on an even more ambitious challenge: the unclimbed west face of Thui II. During an earlier expedition to the region, the trio spotted the peak and resolved to return and conquer it. Their journey would prove to be a testament to human endurance, meticulous planning, and unparalleled skill.

Planning the Ascent

Preparation for the climb began with extensive research. Using tools like Google Earth, Suzuki studied the west face of Thui II, identifying ice and rock formations that could support a mixed climbing route. In September 2023, the team established a base camp at 4,300 meters. However, their progress was initially delayed by persistent rain and bad weather. To acclimatize, they climbed nearby Rishit Peak, spending five days reaching an altitude of 6,000 meters.

After waiting out 12 long days of poor weather at base camp, the climbers finally began their ascent on September 21. Carrying food supplies for four to five days, they set out to tackle the daunting west face.

The Climb: Overcoming Treacherous Conditions

The ascent began with simul-climbing two long pitches, but the challenges intensified as they moved higher. At 5,600 meters, the team faced melting ice and had to navigate a difficult M7 pitch using dry tooling and jamming techniques. On the second day, they progressed through steep mixed couloir and vertical chimney sections, climbing a total of 25 pitches before reaching their bivy site at 6,250 meters.

As they approached the summit, the climb grew even more taxing. High-altitude conditions left Suzuki battling headaches and exhaustion, but their perseverance paid off. On September 23, the trio reached the summit of Thui II, becoming the first climbers to ascend its west face.

The Descent: A Test of Endurance

The descent was no less challenging. Battling strong winds and cold temperatures, the climbers spent an entire day rappelling down the route. By September 24, they had safely returned to base camp. Over their climb, they established three camps: Camp 1 at 5,810 meters, Camp 2 at 6,250 meters, and Camp 3 at 6,523 meters.

Their route, named Spider’s Thread (ED+, M7, A2), is a tribute to the intricate ice formations on the peak and the giant spiders they encountered at base camp. The climb is a testament to the spirit of exploration and the rewards of venturing into the unknown.

The Hidden Beauty of the Hindu Raj

The Hindu Raj range is one of Pakistan’s hidden gems. Unlike the more famous Karakoram and Himalayas, this range remains relatively unexplored, offering climbers and trekkers a unique blend of natural beauty and adventure. Thui II’s west face is just one of many challenges awaiting those willing to explore this remote region.

Explore the Unexplored with Trips Nomad Adventures

At Trips Nomad Adventures, we invite climbers, trekkers, and history enthusiasts to discover the untamed beauty of Pakistan’s northern mountains. From the hidden Hindu Raj to the majestic Hindu Kush, these ranges offer endless opportunities for adventure and discovery.

Whether you’re looking to scale unclimbed peaks, trek through pristine valleys, or immerse yourself in the region's rich history, we’re here to guide you every step of the way. Let’s turn your dream of exploring Pakistan’s wild frontiers into reality.

Plan Your Adventure Today

Ready to embark on your journey of discovery? Visit our website at www.tripsnomad.com to learn more about our tailored adventure packages. The Hindu Raj awaits—are you ready to answer the call?

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