UDAIPUR and ETERNAL MEWAR ALWAYS DRAWS ME BACK
By Aline Dobbie
Exactly one year ago we were in Udaipur as one of the especially important places on the extensive Family trip we made starting in Delhi. Rajasthan has so much on offer for the traveller but truly Udaipur has the charm and special attributes of a unique city and heritage.
We departed from Jodhpur nice and early and stopped along the way to have tea and coffee and delicious snacks at Rohet Garh; this is a favourite haunt of mine and I was only sorry we could not spend a longer time here but the welcome was as warm as ever and the family were enchanted. Rohet Garh with its Mihir Garh should be allocated two nights which gives ample time to enjoy a visit to the Bishnoi villages.
We drove to Udaipur along the modern good road having briefly paused at the Ranakpur Temple. A visit to this temple used to be a real pleasure and the last time I was there was February 2015 but now, sadly the Jain authorities have become greedy and commercialised it and the staff and security are very unimpressive. We arrived in early evening to be warmly welcomed at Fateh Prakash Palace, one of the several palaces that belong to the HRH Group. Now however, since 1st January 2020 Fateh Prakash has become a Taj Hotel and is a compliment to the Taj Lake Palace. The HRH Group of Hotels however continues to flourish with the Shiv Niwas Palace and several others in the group. These gracious palaces with stunning views of Lake Pichola draw one back time and again – I never tire of taking pictures of the lake and the hills beyond and all of life in Udaipur on the banks. These are elegant suites with beautiful bathrooms and sitting rooms; breakfast is at the Sunset Restaurant with the maximum view of the Sunset in the evenings. Udaipur has much to see, with the well curated City Palace Museum, which is just a short walk, but there are buggies to drive one around too. Now it is further enhanced by the stunning new gallery called the Saleh Khana which is in the oldest portion of The City Palace Museum in Udaipur. It was built in the 1560’s by Maharana Udai Singh II, in whose name ‘Udaipur’ as a ‘city of peace’ was established.
Today, five centuries after the city’s foundation was laid, Saleh Khana is witness to the coming together of world-class professionals and traditional ironsmiths as the arms and armoury gallery of the City Palace Museum gets a new lease of life in the twenty-first century. I was to visit it on my last day in Udaipur in March 2020 of which more later.
Naturally, there are lots of shops, restaurants, and the city beyond. For us the Maharana’s collection of vintage cars is a very big attraction and we went to see them, and all the males indulged in wonder at these great beasts of the internal combustion engine in beautiful condition; well I am pretty besotted with vintage and classic cars too and consider this one of the finest collections in the world. After which a thali meal was enjoyed in the restaurant attached in a circular gracious building next door. The Garden Hotel which also belongs to the HRH Group is a few steps away. A thali is the round tray on which come a selection of small bowls filled with different sauces and curries and rice and breads – this is strictly vegetarian.
The island in the lake which also houses a small hotel and restaurant is the Jag Mandir. The famous emperor Shah Jahan had been quartered there by a forgiving Maharana when he was fleeing the wrath of his own Mogul Emperor father Jahangir (his mother was a Rajput princess of Mewar of which Udaipur is now the capital). Jag Mandir is lovely and after a small boat cruise around the lake in the gradually setting sun an evening spent on Jag Mandir with tea, drinks, and then a lovely meal whilst the sun finally disappears is memorable. Added to that the Maharana’s own band might choose to play and add to the ambience. Udaipur is a wonderful location for weddings, and much respected as a very prestige venue for Indian society weddings. We said our farewells as a family this day one year ago and flew to Mumbai, but the memory remains in our family’s hearts.
We drove to Udaipur at the end of February 2020 and it is always a great pleasure to return to the place which we both know and love. On this occasion we were attending the Maharana Mewar Foundation Annual Award ceremony for the second occasion as I am a member of the Colonel James Tod Committee which is part of the Foundation; Colonel James Tod two hundred years ago was tasked with helping Rajputana – now Rajasthan with its progress after the state had been victim of many Mahratta onslaughts. The young Scot who fell in love with Mewar and its neighbouring states or kingdoms did so much to help improve the State and its finances and help its people with their livelihoods. He did much more than that, of which I have written in my forthcoming book. To this day Colonel James Tod is revered in Mewar, and the recognition to foreigners who have helped the State, now in our present time, is bestowed annually at the Maharana Mewar Awards. Sadly, James Tod died young back in the UK but his deep love and fascination for India lives on in his archives held both in the UK and indeed Mewar and the annual award.
We had the great pleasure of staying in the Shiv Niwas Palace. Shiv Niwas Palace has now become a home from home for us. I was more familiar as I indicated with Fateh Prakash on previous occasions but having just stayed at this lovely heritage property, I am delighted to recommend it. We had such a welcoming lovely time with great service and cuisine in palatial surroundings. The crescent-shaped palace, built in the early 20th century, in the reign of Maharana Fateh Singh has been meticulously maintained and preserved. Shiv Niwas Palace is the flag ship now of HRH Group of Hotels and offers a spa and wellness centre, a large outdoor swimming pool and free Wi-Fi throughout the property. This architectural marvel offers elegant suites featuring traditional décor. They are equipped with air-conditioning and feature a flat-screen TV, minibar, and wardrobe with iron and safe. The ensuite bathrooms have bath and shower facilities and contain complimentary toiletries. Lake Pichola is just there to feast your eyes on. Maharana Pratap Airport is 17.4 miles away and Udaipur Railway Station is 2.2 miles away. The hotel’s Paantya restaurant serves delicious Mughlai, Rajasthani, and Continental fare. The Pool Deck serves light snacks and dinner as well as refreshing drinks. The Palki Khanna restaurant in the Manek Chowk serves a variety of cuisines from around Europe should one want a change of venue.
On this occasion we had the pleasure of visiting the very new Armoury which is still to be completed. Truly it has been achieved with great professionalism and with British expertise and once open will be intriguing and so worthwhile. The City Palace of Udaipur is a treasure trove of wonderful heritage and has been very well curated and I have seen it develop over twenty-three years to its present heights. However, my deep pleasure derived from making a cup of tea in the morning at about 06.30 and watching the sun come up with the birds in the trees opposite. The sunrise tinges the buildings on the lake pink and the parakeets, and the hornbills become active and sometimes a kite comes and sits on the big tree opposite our suite. Gra would continue with his morning walk routine and enjoyed observing all the morning rituals. I looked forward to a perfect breakfast – the Eggs Benedict is perfection! Then of an evening about 18.20 hours I would stand on our private balcony and watch the sun set and that is so beautiful. I have written about Udaipur often with affection. On this occasion we also visited the Monsoon Palace far on the peak of the hill opposite. This was the idea of a short lived but wise Maharana in the 19th century, and now belongs to the state but is worth the visit for its panoramic views down on to the lakes. To be Custodians of India and Rajasthan’s heritage demands commitment and is challenging but very worthwhile. https://photos.app.goo.gl/a2pWhunAGykBJ6qx9
All too soon it was time to leave for Mumbai to spend a night and depart the next morning on an Emirates flight back home. Alarming news had been dominating social networks about the Coronavirus and its rapid travel through from China to other countries where it had engulfed authorities. It was obvious that this was a huge global challenge so for us to return home on the 6th March was a great relief, but we wore masks the whole way on our flights and were diligent about hand washing. Now four months later we are emerging from lockdown at home as we are in the vulnerable age group, and asked to refrain from socialising and we were determined to try and not get this awful illness – the young largely bounce back but the 70s age group onwards have severe challenges.
The situation is still a serious challenge as I write in India, and I think back to the day of our arrival in India and that clear blue sky without a dark cloud to threaten. Now, we all globally have a huge health challenge but also a massive financial challenge as peoples’ livelihoods are threatened everywhere; everyone had to shut down businesses, schools, services, hospitality; here now in the UK the Government is working desperately to encourage a return to daily lives and travel and eat out or go to the theatre or attend clinics and of course a return after the summer holidays to schooling and tertiary education. It has been a dark time which has impacted with tragic consequences. We must continue to be vigilant and keep safe and travel responsibly.
But this challenge will pass, and I am happy to help promote India once again now that several hotel groups have opened their doors and are so keen to welcome you back. International flights I am informed will become normal by the end of August. In the meantime, Indian travellers can benefit from an Indian holiday in perhaps less crowded surroundings. HRH Group have committed themselves to very thorough sanitization and Pandemic Protocols programme of which one can read on their website.
Eternal Mewar welcomes you back – go and enjoy!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MZjpRsUrYqZ1C1RHA Udaipur 2019
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a2pWhunAGykBJ6qx9 Shiv Niwas Palace 2020
HRH Group of Hotels
The City Palace
Udaipur 313 001, Rajasthan - India
Telephone: +91 294 252 8016 - 19 Extn: 3333
Fax: +91 294 252 8006
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.hrhhotels.com