The True Cost Of Free Returns

Festive season has just ended but the wedding season is just around the corner, and you've ordered three dresses online, each in two different sizes, hoping to find the perfect fit. For those that don't make the cut, you plan to initiate a return to the shopping app, free of cost. At the end of the day, that is what we love about these fashion websites, right? Their return policy...

Free returns sound amazing, right? I mean, how are you to know if a particular brand's size 14 or 16 will fit you or what that material feels like, let alone how it looks on you in real life? The easiest solution is to order something online, and if it doesn't fit you or is not what you want, just send it back. It's free, after all!

The app will send a delivery agent to pick up the product hassle-free. On reaching the warehouse, some people will ensure each item is repackaged and put back up for sale on the app, where they’ll sooner or later be bought by another eager shopper.?

Pretty simple, right? Wrong!

What happens to the clothes you send back?

Buying and returning clothes online is such a routine part of modern life that we don't think much about it most of the time. In fact, many of us only shop online, even if we go and browse offline at store outlets, because we have the security of knowing we could return unwanted purchases at no extra cost and super conveniently, right from our doorstep.

However, beneath the surface of this often-overlooked convenience lies a complex world of hidden costs and unintended consequences. Each returned package leaves behind a trail of emissions from the various trains, planes, and giant trucks that carry it back to the seller.

Once the package reaches the seller's doorstep, it's thoroughly examined. If it's damaged, missing its price tag, or seems to have been used, it's deemed no longer fit for resale and will most likely end up either in a landfill or sent for incineration.

If the situation isn't too bad, these items can be discounted and resold through outlets or second-hand thrift stores. Some companies try to reuse parts of them, but most fabrics used by fast fashion labels are too difficult or resource-heavy to recycle.

If the item appears to be in perfect condition, its journey is far from over. After careful inspection by human hands, it undergoes a process of steaming or dry cleaning, gets a fresh makeover in new packaging, and is then restocked, ready to find its way to a new home.

But not many sellers and platforms perform these practices, because it is time and labour intensive. Companies to show they are profitable, must allocate these limited resources in more gainful ways, so it is more convenient to forgo the process and add "returns" to "wastage".

Who pays for the free returns?

Free returns might seem like a fantastic deal for people like you and me, but in reality, it's the planet that often bears the brunt of the hidden costs.

The environmental toll of free returns is significant. Each return generates emissions from transportation as packages traverse cities and continents to reach their origin. These emissions contribute to climate change and air pollution. Moreover, the process of inspecting, refurbishing, and repackaging returned items consumes even more energy and resources. But I'll be honest, most brands don't disclose their return product policy, i.e. how they deal with the products received through return? Believe me I have tried to find this out, but I don't know if my favourite online retail stores even attempt to salvage them and allocate the return received products appropriately according to use, utility, lifespan, material etc or simply cast off as "wastage" and sold to minimise company loss without much thought and end-of-lifecycle assessment for what happens to these garments.

Ultimately, reality is less rosy and the true cost of free returns extends beyond our convenience. It affects ecosystems, depletes resources, and exacerbates the fashion industry's already substantial environmental footprint.

What can we do?

As conscious consumers, we must recognize that our choices have consequences, and it's crucial to strike a balance between convenience and sustainability.?

• By reducing unnecessary returns, choosing quality over quantity, and supporting brands with sustainable and transparent practices, we can collectively foster a more responsible and eco-friendly approach to consumption.
• Asking brands for more transparency about their processes, policies and use, re-use. To some extent the proposed #EPR (extended producers responsibility does require brands to disclose certain things), but we are yet to see actionable changes from the new norms as adoption is still fairly low and brands are considering the parameters of compliances required.
• Another way forward is embracing the world of second-hand shopping. Declutter with brands you know will work to elongate the lifespan of the garments that you will not be using. Thrift stores and online vintage marketplaces offer a treasure trove of unique, pre-loved fashion pieces waiting to be rediscovered. By opting for second-hand clothing, we not only extend the lifespan of garments but also divert them from landfills. Moreover, it's an opportunity to break free from the relentless cycle of fast fashion trends and disposable clothing.

At EcoDhaga, we aim to elongate the lifespan of wearables in India by thrifting, upcycling, donating and recycling. If you share our passion for sustainability and want to make a difference, you can join in, too!

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