TRAVELOGUE LADAKH- BLAZE THE ROUGH-PART II

(Contd. from Part I) I had read that Manali-Leh Highway is one of the surreal and breathtakingly beautiful highways of Incredible India. We clocked 480 kms from Jispa to Leh amidst this celebrated highway and felt the raw power of Indian Himalayas. The Highway zips through Kullu Valley, Lahaul Valley, Sarchu and Morey Plains. The incredible 21 Hairpin Bends called GATA LOOPS; 5 High Altitude Himalayan Passes, cold deserts of Leh Ladakh and mesmerizing lakes are spread along this highway.?

We were crossing the Lachung La Pass which is the 4th High Altitude Pass when we felt the impact of low oxygen. We had missed the breakfast and now were about to miss our lunch too! The reason was simple- the two vehicles wanted to cross this zone faster as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) had entered one car and was knocking on my windows too. Lachung La Pass stands at 16616 feet, and I stepped out to salute the Shaurya Chakra RCC. The oxygen was low, and I could feel the strain as my lungs wanted to expand more. Stepping inside the comfort of Grey Fox (@Mahindra_Thar) comfortable cabin, I pressed the gas to clear 21.6 kms of descent with off-roading on muddy roads to hit the next high jump, a place called Pang.?

The swigs of water continued to help generate oxygen, but the demand of internal chemistry was more. I had to keep the other car in my sight across bends, curves, and heights. At one point, we stopped to hand over water to the other car as by now the driver and his daughter were experiencing headaches. At these heights, the body tries to equalize temperature by ejecting out fluids. It is an experience and not a pleasant one at that.

The climb to Pang was smooth but the stay at Pang is tricky. This place has some rare oxygen conditions and since I had reached early, I decided to empty my 10 Litre Petrol Jerry Can to remove the fumes filling the cabin. A helpful lady from the local Ladakhi Dhaba, helped me to fill the fuel but I had consumed 20 odd minutes at Pang. This can be a mistake!!! The other car drove in, and the Driver was now in a bad state. He could not concentrate and had terrible headache on both temples. This is a terrible situation as the two-sided headache can lead to brain damages. We were now in a fix, had one higher pass to clear and yet were 180 odd kms away from Leh. Aparna was holding well but we both had neither eaten nor could bring ourselves around to eat anything. Water remained our only savior as our body searched for its fuel to run the senses. The stomachs were now a soft target for Mr Murphy, and we had to do something different. The bane of these highways is non-availability of good, hygienic washroom facilities for women travelers and merits remedial action.

I was now in a dilemma as to what should be the game from here onwards till Leh. 180 kms, 2 sick folks including the driver and us both who could also collapse due to AMS! I guided the other family to sit inside the Ladakhi Dhaba and to eat well whatever they could. I requested the Dhaba owner (a kind lady) to look after them and help find a local driver who could move the vehicle to Leh. With a prayer for us all, I spun the Grey Fox and zipped towards the last pass before Leh called Tangla La. As Pang disappeared behind my rear view, Aparna and I were worried for the family left behind and the 180 kms looming ahead of us.

?The drive from Pang to Tangla La is a joy and a terrain which seems like another planet. 14.2 kms of uphill climb and one hits this pass. Incredible beauty unfolds (albeit Oxygen remains absent) and the road is exotic. It was at this pass that I felt a little weak in my head, but I pushed myself hard. Crossing the majestic pass, we began a 31.9 kms of downhill journey to Rumtse. The downhill drive is rough, but the Mahindra Thar (Grey Fox) ruled each tarmac offered to it. Truly a majestic vehicle and its automatic transmission is a beauty.

The last 100 kms was a challenge as our tiredness due to less food and oxygen built up. However, this tested our body's pain taking capabilities and God was kind as we entered our hotel after a 12 hour of gruel on the most beautiful Highways of India. The hotel staff was waiting with a cozy room and we just lied down to catch our breath.

?Note- This road from Manali to Leh is an extreme challenge and should be attempted with all due care and respect for your own health.....More ahead in the next blog.

?Foot Notes

Me and my good lady travelled through Ladakh and touched base with the War Memorials spread enroute. It is a nostalgic feeling to see this rough territory, feel the heat of its physical endurance, meeting with young Soldiers, Officers and to assimilate their experiences. Hats off to all who have served here. We were at Turtuk and the Army team took us to Zero RD. The view from binoculars was scintillating as we could see movement in PoK’s Gilgit Baltistan. The Grey Fox (Mahindra Thar) clocked its 3000th Km here and we felt honored. Met our very own Coursemate at the Hall of Fame at Leh and saluted his supreme sacrifice. The 2nd half of this circuit took us across to Pangong Tso and ahead. A regular microblog was updated through Twitter @ironcoffiner. Hail Indian Army and IAF for doing a wonderful job. The tea at the Rangla Punjab Dhaba opposite Thoise Airfield was most amazing. The Artillery Regiment team made the stop pleasant. Bravo bravo bravo.

The tourists just zip by this stone. No one stops. As I stopped, a biker couple also made a halt and we conversed. They were fascinated to imagine how this would have unfolded in 1948 and then in 1971 as Major (Later Colonel) Chewan Rinchen, Bar to Mahavir Chakra, Sena Medal would have led counter attacks. Sadly, the rapid tourist will end up spoiling Ladakh soon. Incidentally, there have been deaths this year as many tourists have romped over Ladakh and many did not fathom the nature's challenges here. Here are my salient observations: -?

?1. Tourists have lost lives as many of them do not merge well with the nature here.?

?2. Bad drivers- both taxi and bikers who do not show any respect for the beauty of the drive.

?3. Plastic flying out of taxis and Ladakh ecology mixing with it.?

4. Graffiti by bikers and tourists.?

?The list is endless. No one stops as they all are in a hurry to zip from one point to another little realizing that the actual Ladakh is enroute the points!?

They do not meet the fallen soldiers whose memorials and stories are etched on stones.?

Ladakh is not a typical tourist destination and battered tourists vomiting or passed out in speeding Taxis is not a fun.?

As for Manali to Leh- Kindly do not be a Gama as this 580 kms drive can be the toughest of life. We woke up drivers slumbered behind wheels, dozing off with Acute Mountain Sickness, accident blocking roads and overstay on high passes like Pang where a short stay in rare atmosphere can fix one for life!!?

Be safe folks and respect Ladakh for what it is. Do not romp on its beauty and do not spoil it. Sad to see bikers not respecting basic driving rules and what is the fun then if it is same as city driving!! Is a dirty dress, sun burnt body, no shave et al an idea of biking, then maybe a relook is needed?

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