Tracing the Truth: How to Trust “Organic Cotton” is Really Organic

The label on that cotton t-shirt says it’s organic. It’s organic, right?

But how can we be sure about where the raw materials came from, whether they’re safe and what happened to them along the way?

As consumers increasingly prioritize sustainable practice, safer materials and ethical sourcing in their buying habits, the demand for organic cotton has surged. Textile manufacturers clamber to find suppliers, and farmers around the world transition their fields to qualify for organic status.

But the organic cotton industry faces specific challenges. Transparency, verification and greenwashing concerns continue to trouble the market. With a supply chain that can contain dozens of links, tracing the product becomes paramount.

A Growing Industry

The global organic cotton market is soaring. Organic cotton is incorporated into more products than ever, and business experts project a compound annual growth rate of 40 percent by 2028.

While clothing and textiles made with organic cotton can cost more than those made of conventional cotton, many are willing to pay. Growing awareness of the fashion industries’ negative effects has consumers looking for ways to reduce their environmental and social impact.

Organic cotton farms use less water and reject synthetic pesticides, cultivating only seeds that have not been genetically modified. Workers and ecosystems are less exposed to harmful chemicals, giving conscious consumers multiple reasons to choose organic.

Can the Data Be Trusted?

Though demand continues to mount, certified organic cotton still only accounts for 1.4 percent of all cotton grown globally. This can be attributed to the fact that converting conventional cotton fields to organic requires time and adherence to stringent standards. Additionally, the limited availability of organic seeds and higher labor costs associated with organic farming pose significant barriers to scaling up.

That hasn’t slowed growth: According to the latest data from Textile Exchange, annual output has increased for the last five years -- notably by 37 percent in 2022. Organic cotton is now cultivated in 21 countries, with India supplying the largest amount of raw fibers.

But the definition of “organic” varies between governing bodies. Some certifications depend on audits performed by unaffiliated parties, which can produce inconsistent results. Reporting gaps prevent the verification of the origins of some cotton and confidence is low.

Moreover, investigations have revealed that there is to be more certified organic cotton in the supply chain and consumer market than can possibly have been grown – a discrepancy that suggests what’s on every label may not always be the truth.

Addressing the Traceability Challenge

The most efficient and effective way to handle this primary hurdle of the organic cotton industry is to ensure traceability and transparency throughout the supply chain. Consumers, suppliers and manufacturers must be able to track the journey of their cotton, from farm to factory to finished product.

The OEKO-TEX? ORGANIC COTTON certification aligns with internationally-recognized organic standards and documents each level of the supply chain. A certificate is required at each level, and mass balances and transaction certificates are used back up traceability. Facilities are regularly checked on-site by OEKO-TEX? auditors.

This level of traceability not only prevents fraud and misrepresentation, but also enables businesses to make informed decisions about their sourcing practices and build trust with their customers.

OEKO-TEX? ORGANIC COTTON Certification

By implementing rigorous traceability measures, including audits and document verification, OEKO-TEX? ORGANIC COTTON certification provides assurance at every step of production. Furthermore, it guarantees stringent testing for harmful substances that protect people and the planet.

This independent system of laboratory testing, transaction certificates and on-site audits authenticates tested cotton as truly organic as well as safer for the consumer.

In addition to providing traceability and transparency, OEKO-TEX? ORGANIC COTTON certification goes several steps further to make sure organic cotton is safer and more sustainable:

• To ensure that the origin of certified cotton is organic, OEKO-TEX? tests for pesticides and utilizes a proprietary method that quantifies GMO contents to differentiate between contamination or intentional mixing.
• The full testing program of OEKO-TEX? STANDARD 100 is carried out to protect the ?health of end users from harmful chemicals that may have been added along the supply chain.
• In addition to IFOAM’s organic agriculture standards, the certification covers all components of finished products to meet global regulatory requirements, like EU REACH, US CPSIA and EU POPS.

Because OEKO-TEX? ORGANIC COTTON certification maintains stricter standards than others in the industry, it provides indisputable scientific proof. The result? Suppliers and brands can rely on verified claims, and consumers can trust what they’re buying.

Want trusted, traceable organic cotton? Hohenstein.US/ORGANIC-COTTON

Article prepared by AAFA Traceability & Sustainability Conference Sponsor, Hohenstein Group (May 16, 2024). Learn More at aafaglobal.org/trace24