Toka Ebisu: Western Japan's Festival for Prosperity

Japanese mythology is complicated. Considering how long Japan has been a country, this is perhaps not surprising. Ask a Japanese person if they are familiar with the Seven Lucky Gods, and practically all will acknowledge their familiarity. Many can name the all. Ask them if the Seven Lucky Gods are Buddhist or Shinto, and you will almost certainly hear a lot of breath being sucked through the teeth. This is a Japanese non-verbal indication that you've asked something which cannot be answered, or for which the answer is "no."

The actual answer is complicated. The Seven Lucky Gods seem to be so similar to the Chinese Eight Immortals from Taoism that there must be a connection. However on three of the Seven Lucky Gods come from Taoism (Fukurokuju, Hotei, Jurojin). Three more come from Mahayana Buddhism, (Benzaiten, Bishamonten, Daikokuten). But one is uniquely Japanese - Ebisu (or in the old orthography, Yebisu).

According to some origin stories, Ebisu was the first child of Izanagi and Izanami, who was born without bones and was cast into the sea (a fact attributed to an error by Izanami, and not due to the fact that Izanagi and Izanami were siblings). Because Ebisu was thrown in the ocean, he eventually grew bones and became the god of fishermen. In spite of his horrific origin story, Ebisu is always depicted as laughing, carrying a fishing pole, and with a large red sea bream. Because of the traditional connection between fish and wealth in Japan, Ebisu is a god of wealth and good fortune as well. Ebisu is also an environmentalist, becoming enraged whenever people pollute the ocean.

Across the western part of Japan defined as the Kansai region (generally Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, Nara, plus neighboring prefectures), the festival of Tōka Ebisu is held for roughly a business week from January 8th to January 12th (January 9th to January 11th at some locations). Ebisu shrines in other parts of Japan will also commemorate Tōka Ebisu, but it is generally less prominent than it is in Kansai.

The name of the festival, Tōka Ebisu, means "10th day Ebisu" and the height of the festivities are on January 10th. There are usually performances of kagura (traditional Japanese sacred dances), and Fukumusume (literally good fortune daughters) and local celebrities will hand out good fortune charms made from bamboo. In Kyoto, Geiko and Maiko (geisha and apprentice geisha) can usually be seen at the festival, and may even be handing out lucky bamboo. There are also talismans of good fortune for sale, and the thinking is that the larger the talisman, the greater the fortune. This is the peak time of the year for selling large rakes decorated with images of Ebisu as well as other symbols of good fortune, or even woven baskets. The idea is that the rake is needed to rake in all the money, and the basket is necessary to gather it up. Ebisu is often paired with another of the Seven Lucky Gods, Daikoku, who is also a god of wealth. As a major festival, all the standard festival enjoyments can also be found, like festival foods and games.

I asked a Japanese friend what happens if you buy a good fortune talisman and you wind up not making any money. His immediate gruff response, "Burn It!" Here's hoping that you can make it to your closest Ebisu shrine for Toka Ebisu, and that you won't be filled with pyromaniacal rage at the end of the year!