Three years on: Was black inclusivity in Luxury Fashion just a post 2020 show?
It’s the same b.s swinging in and out of a revolving door. A week after returning home to warmth, comfort, security & love, I find myself collating my thoughts and reflecting on my fashion week experience this season. As I look back on how much I felt stifled compared to last season, bearing in mind, I went to Paris and New York?in September 2022 with less than 20,000 followers on Instagram and had to my standard a very successful fashion week(s). The interesting part however is last year my content was nowhere near as curated as you see today. Today my fashion voice is projected far more across all my social platforms, my visuals are clean, my style refined so in no way should this have reflected my very unfortunate negative experience this season.
One would argue that such a pivot deserves a seat at many tables (in this case shows/presentations). My mind almost cannot comprehend that pre 2020 is rearing its enormous ugly head again. 3 years later, just a mere THREE years and we are re-visiting the same tired conversations regarding black creators in the fashion industry.?
At first I blamed myself, I scrutinised my content and my work, I had endless conversations with my manager, my husband and asked if I was doing something wrong. Eventually the penny dropped when my peers in the industry shared some concerns and worries about their treatment this season, particularly their lack of invitations, inclusivity and recognition, despite building sold relationships with fashion houses and pr's in previous seasons. It didn’t take long to realise this very same issue I was facing was across the board. I began my research, stories of black creators and professionals being offered imaginary seats that do not exist, embarrassed at the door with their names “not on the list”,?the “sorry we can accommodate you this year” from brands with previously built relationships became a familiar sound ringing in our heads. Not to mention the countless episodes of stark racism some of us experiences the entire time.
I speak on behalf of amazing talented black creators and professionals being bypassed, overlooked and shunned all in the name of the colour of their/our skin. I wonder how in 2023 this is still acceptable? I pose a question to the ones who were “listening & learning” and promised “we will do better”, how much did you benefit from your performance? We have all shown up only to be told "the shows over now, draw the curtains, please leave and move along.?Nothing more to see here."
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I wonder how we are supposed to even advocate for ourselves in a field that only makes room for two of us at a time? And the unfortunate part is the two that have been let in won’t even speak up and use their voices due to the fear of being replaced. How do “meet” the industries "requirements" when the goal post is constantly being moved regarding us? and as for our white counterparts who never care enough to advocate for us unless we are a global trending topic at the expense of black lives being snatched off the street. So what exactly are we left with??
I left this industry over a decade ago due to these very same struggles and I return to be met with the same reception. It seems that those who head this industry are very much in a hurry to return back to the “less” complicated days. Black fashion creators/professionals?are living out the painful reality of white supremacy in the world's most powerful hubs for fashion. Luxury and contemporary houses who claim to pride themselves on celebrating diversity and inclusivity, have failed to turn their words into action when it comes to creating spaces that reflect equitable representation for us.?
This season in-particular, it was almost impossible to ignore the lack of representation in the upper echelons of our industry. This isn't because of a genuine lack of talent, instead, it is deeply embedded systems of racism that continue to keep talented black people like myself and others from rising up in the fashion world despite having an abundance of potential, skill, talent and expertise. If you are a black creative in the industry please use your voice and speak up! It is time for the oppression we face on a daily basis to end so that our amazing gifts can be appreciated, respected and valued.