Three technology breakthroughs you must know (2) - Development of extracts to suppress skin aging caused by stress

Introducing three research presented during the 2023 IFSCC. ?1) Formulation technology mixing Vitamin C with other antioxidants to improve instability and discoloration.? 2) ??Development of extracts to suppress skin aging caused by stress. 3) Development of natural deodorant ingredients that are friendly to skin microbiome. ?Jongil Park from INTOBIO Inc., head of research and technology, summarizes the 3 papers.? We thank him for his contribution.

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Effect of psychological stress on skin cells and efficacy of Medicago sativa sprout extract to cope with skin signs ?(Alessandra Rosano, Akott Evolution)

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Psychological stress interferes with the normal function of healthy skin, aggravating the skin condition. This causes central and peripheral hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal activating 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (11β-HSD1), an enzyme that converts cortisone into cortisol. This is because the (HPA) system is activated. It is known that emotional stress within skin cells promotes 11β-HSD1 in the keratinocytes of the epidermis and fibroblasts of the dermis, thereby increasing the activation of cortisol. This reduces epidermal growth and differentiation, increases water loss, and breaks down the skin barrier.

Alfalfa (Medicago Sativa L.) is a plant belonging to the legume family and is also called alfalfa. It has long been used as a rejuvenator, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-diabetic, and antibacterial agent. It has also been used to treat diseases related to central nervous system.? However, no studies have yet been conducted on the efficacy of alfalfa in relation to cortisol synthesis or 11β-HSD1. Therefore, the research team conducted the following tests assuming that the saponin and polyphenol series components contained in Medicago Sativa sprout extract (MSIe) would inhibit 11β-HSD1.

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Preparation of alfalfa sprout extract

Alfalfa seeds sprouted through a water-saving process based on a hydroponic cultivation system. It was then prepared by extraction with water using ultrasonic extraction technology, and the average polyphenol content was measured to be 8.6±2 mgGAE/100g.

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Effect of alfalfa on cortisol biosynthesis

To determine whether alfalfa bud extract inhibits the amount of cortisol synthesis and promotes cell growth, we measured (for 72 hours) the amount of cortisol gathered on human keratinocytes, NHEK for one group treated with only cortisone and another treated with cortisone + alfalfa bud extract. Emodin, an 11β-HSD1 inhibitor, was used as a positive control. As a result, the amount of cortisol synthesis in the group treated with only cortisone increased by 99.8%. However, the amount of cortisol synthesis in the group treated with alfalfa bud extract decreased by 44.14% compared to the group treated with only cortisone. In addition, cell growth in the group treated with alfalfa bud extract increased by 15.9% (Figure 4).

Effect of alfalfa on fibroblast stiffness

To evaluate the stiffness of fibroblast cytoplasm, nucleus, and total fibroblasts, the researchers treated a group with only 0.3 μM cortisol and a group mixed with 0.3 μM cortisol + 0.001% or 0.003% alfalfa bud extract for 7 days. It was measured using atomic force microscopy. As a result, in the group treated only with cortisol, stiffness increased in all areas, and when looking at all fibroblasts, stiffness increased by 14.77%. On the other hand, alfalfa bud extract reduced stiffness by 5% and 23% in the cytoplasm, 20.2%, and 31% in the nucleus, respectively, at concentrations of 0.001% and 0.003%, and decreased stiffness by 13.54% and 27.45% in total fibroblasts. (Figure 5). Looking at the stiffness map, stiffness of fibroblasts increased when only cortisol was treated, but the stiffness of fibroblasts decreased in the group treated with alfalfa sprout extract (Figure 6).

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Wrinkle depth reduction effect of alfalfa extract

Based on the stress scale questionnaire, 30 healthy female volunteers between the ages of 30 and 45 who felt stressed or anxious and had wrinkles and loss of elasticity on their faces were given a gel containing 2% alfalfa extract twice a day for a total of 8 weeks. It was applied and tested. When 2% alfalfa extract was applied from the 2nd week, the wrinkle depth began to decrease compared to the control group, and finally, when the 8th week progressed, the overall wrinkle depth was seen to be alleviated compared to the control group (Figure 7).

Skin elasticity improvement effect of alfalfa extract

R2, an indicator that appears when measuring skin elasticity, indicates the degree of elasticity of the skin; the larger the value, the better the elasticity. R9 indicates the fatigue effect, and the smaller the number, the lower the fatigue (meaning that elasticity is less affected).

It was confirmed that when applying 2% alfalfa extract, the R2 value increased and the R9 value decreased compared to the control group at 2, 4, and 8 weeks, increasing skin elasticity.

Researchers have proven that stress-relieving material based on alfalfa bud extract reduces the stiffness of fibroblasts by suppressing cortisol release, and has the effect of reducing skin wrinkles and increasing elasticity through clinical trials. Stress relieving materials based on alfalfa bud extract can be used as excellent well-aging ingredient for cosmetics formulation.

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