Three technology breakthrough you must know

Introducing three research presented during the 2023 IFSCC. ?1) Formulation technology mixing Vitamin C with other antioxidants to improve instability and discoloration.? 2) ??Development of extracts to suppress skin aging caused by stress. 3) Development of natural deodorant ingredients that are friendly to skin microbiome. ?Jongil Park from INTOBIO Inc., head of research and technology, summarizes the 3 papers.? We thank him for his contribution.

We introduce the first research here today.

1) Skin homeostasis & oxy-aging: A challenge in formulation?- Gina Puig, Natura Bisse Int.

Aging begins with the deterioration of the homeostatic system in the body that maintains the health of the organism. It has been argued that the deterioration of these systems is caused by chronic oxidative stress, causing inflammation and adversely affecting the homeostasis of the organism. In fact, there is a close relationship between oxidative stress and inflammation, which leads to the ‘oxy-inflammaging’ theory that oxidative stress causes inflammation and affects the homeostasis of the organism.

Antioxidants applied to the skin reduce oxidative stress and, as a result, prevent aging by improving immunity and reducing inflammation. Therefore, it is important to contain a high concentration of antioxidant ingredients in products to address oxidative activity occurring in the skin. However, there is a big problem with antioxidants - the stability of the product is easily reduced due to discoloration and decomposition. In order to create a stable formulation while increasing antioxidant power, the researchers used four substances with excellent antioxidant power: ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), turmeric extract (Curcuma longa extract), French coastal pine bark extract (Pinus Pinaster bark extract), and carnosaccharide. A formulation development experiment was conducted to mix carnosine with a high concentration of up to 20%.

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Formulation development and stability testing

Of all the formulations tested, the best results were obtained when using anhydrous and high-concentration antioxidants and additives with a pleasant feeling of use. The ascorbic acid content remained stable in samples aged at 25℃ for 1 year and accelerated aging at 40℃ for 3 months of the study period, reducing ascorbic acid to 12% by chemically dissolving it. It has been shown that stabilization is possible.

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Testing Antioxidation

ABTS assay was performed to evaluate the antioxidant ability of single and four substances of ascorbic acid, turmeric extract, French coastal pine bark extract, and carnosine in three types of combinations according to concentration (Table 2). The test results showed that the antioxidant ability of four substances combined was higher than that of each single substance (Figure 1).

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Table 1

Figure 1

Clinical Trial

A clinical trial was evaluated on 30 female participants with skin lacking elasticity and radiance. Using anhydrous formulation with high antioxidant content, participants applied to their faces twice a day for 28 days.?? The result was 18.9% increase in brightness (Figure 2), ?7.4% and 7.9% increase in skin elasticity and hardness, respectively (Figure 3).

Figure 2

Figure 3

Summarizing these results, a new formulation featuring a high-concentration antioxidant mixture has been developed that reduces skin homeostasis and oxidative stress without the previous problem of instability and discoloration.

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