Ten years plus a shade of Amethyst for Gianluca Saitto

New decade, new vibe: celebrated by the couturier Gianluca Saitto’s namesake brand under the aegis of change. The Pozzi Chiesa family, which became part of the company’s capital some time ago, decided to breathe new life into the historic headquarters of the proprietor Italmondo, one of the key European transport and logistics players. And it was done in grand style, unifying the range of acquired companies under the umbrella of the Supernova Hub incubator, which now supports twelve start-ups. In 2021, after eleven years spent in the historic centre of Brera in Milan, the premises of Gianluca Saitto have moved to the Viale Certosa area, merging the style office, production, and showroom, and accelerating a concept present in the DNA of the couturier from the very beginning; tailormade for a select clientele, rather than via the traditional route.

If the second step of the brand’s life, from via Ponte Vetero to the adjacent via dell’Orso, was marked by the Alchimia collection, in the footsteps of transmutation, this third chapter is embodied by Ametista, paying homage to the spiritual stone par excellence, which Leonardo Da Vinci believed had the power to dissipate negative thoughts and quicken human intelligence. This collection marks the rediscovery of rock tailoring embellished with couture embroidery that echoes one of the very first collections, 700 Rock, which set an immediate precedent for strong character and devotion to detail.

The fabrics reflect the typical purple shades of amethyst which, mixed with nuances of gold and silver in lurex threads running through the collection’s iconic print, result in intensely-bright chromatisms in concert with the broderies, as well as the prismatic shapes of the mineral that punctuate the three-dimensionality of the clothes. References to art are evident with a 16th century Mannerist painting that enlivens the poster print itself. An ever-present distinctive feature, intricate hand embroideries are applied?according to the garment they adorn: from the most sumptuous for the soirée to incrustations of sparkling stones for the red carpet to small mirrors with a modern appeal.

The main focus is on the form; geometric silhouettes accentuated by transparencies, bold and angular cuts, in particular on the shoulders that are sharp and structured. Patchwork, crocodile effect laminated leather and lasered embroidery complete the shiny rock star allure. An almost pictorial rendering of animals is created on stretch silk or cady, and there is no shortage of embroidered tulle inserts and unusual details such as the golden side zips of the tuxedo.

This season’s innovation can be found in the launch of high-end knitwear made by artisans in Milan and Florence, revolving around two models: peanut stitch with collar and cuffs crocheted in baby alpaca from Val Gardena, available in neutral shades, such as grey, brown and black, which are tinged with more energetic colours in the customisation phase; and oversized mohair and cashmere garments with chunky yarn braids. There is an obvious focus on sustainability, including the reuse of furs, their deconstruction and reconstitution into new shapes.

Published on Claudia Chiari's Blog