Sun Protection Factor: What's all the fuss about?

In all my days as a #skinvangelist, the conversation about Sun Protection Factor (SPF) has been cyclical, contentious and still MASSIVELY misunderstood. There are all kinds of swirling myths, non-truths, celebrity fails (cue Gwyneth Paltrow!) and useless titbits of misinformation.

I, for one, I’m over it!

SPF is your friend. Remember that.

What is SPF?

 SPF is a topical product that absorbs or reflects the sun’s UV radiation to prevent sunburn which prevents damage to the skin. SPF is known by several different names including, sunscreen, sunblock, sun cream and even good old suntan lotion. For the purpose of this article though, it will be referred to as SPF.

SPF comes in many textures including cream, powder, spray and gel. There are a few things to note about SPF in general that are useful to keep in mind:

• The sun emits UVA and UVB rays (the sun also emits UVC rays, but these are absorbed by the earth's atmosphere) UVA is responsible for ageing, wrinkles and sunspots and UVB is responsible for skin burning and is the cancer causing one. None of these are good.
• SPF either reflects or absorbs UVB rays ONLY unless otherwise stated (more on this shortly). The basic calculation works like this: “If it takes 1 minute for your unprotected skin to start being damaged by UVB rays, using an SPF 30 sunscreen theoretically prevents damage 30 times longer.” Say you purchase an SPF 30 sunscreen. If it typically takes 10 minutes until your skin starts to burn, by using the SPF 30, you’re theoretically protected from the sun for 300 minutes, or 5 hours.

• NOT ALL SPF IS CREATED EQUAL. As stated above most SPF’s protect you from the sun’s shorter wavelength of UVB. Broad Spectrum SPF protects your skin from both UVA and UVB rays as well as additional light/ray sources if stated. This is very important. You must use a broad spectrum SPF to achieve the optimum coverage for your skin.

SPF is a 365 day a year product. There are no off days.

• SPF is rated differently in different areas of the world

With these things in mind and in addition to my clinical experience I felt that it was important to go through some common SPF myths that often float around with regards to wearing and applying SPF. My hope is that by reading this article you will understand why you should be wearing your SPF DAILY, with no arguments and if you don’t wear SPF, you can’t sit with me. I said what I said LOOL!

Myth Number 1 - I have melanin, I don’t need SPF!

Don’t let me hear that from your mouth! (Said like my Nigerian mum!) Let’s get real about the numbers. Melanin has a SPF Protection of approximately 4 in the darkest skin tones. So if you think about it….that’s closer to zero than the numbers 30 or 50, which are numbers that every client of mine becomes familiar with pretty much on entering my clinic. The darker your skin tone the slightly more minute your sun protection. Sun damage is a compound occurrence. It doesn’t go away, skin just gets more damaged. Additionally, UV is a known carcinogen and these are not the kind of games we want to be playing!

Myth Number 2 - It’s cloudy, I don’t see any sun. I don’t need SPF!

Look, if there is daylight, it means there is sun. If there is sun, you need Sun Protection Factor. Simple. Clouds do not offer coverage or protection. I have nothing further to add.

Myth Number 3 - A Lockdown Special: I’m working from home, I don’t need SPF!

UVA rays, still penetrate through glass so unless you work in complete darkness, SPF is still needed. Even if you work in complete darkness, I assume you have to travel to work and so you need SPF.

Myth Number 4 – SPF will prevent my Vitamin D production. I don’t need SPF!

 There isn’t enough scientific evidence to support this. Point blank, period. There is no evidence that SPF blocks vitamin D or that it decreases vitamin D concentration in real life usage on humans. There have been some experimental studies that have used artificially generated ultraviolet radiation with an output unlike that seen in sunlight.

The benefits of the protection of wearing SPF outweigh not wearing it. Please don’t misunderstand me, Vitamin D has a very important function in immunity and is necessary in every immune cell however, Vitamin D can be boosted where needed. There is a need for Vitamin D but there is also a need to protect your skin from the sun.

Myth Number 5 – There’s SPF in my foundation, I don’t need SPF!

 Ok, so whilst I’m not against SPF being in products I kind of am! Let me explain. The amount of SPF that is needed to give sufficient protection from the sun is anywhere between 1/3 of a teaspoon, give or take. Let’s be honest, that’s a lot of foundation and the fact that SPF usually needs to be reapplied means that SPF in foundation is just not practical.

So there you have it. A small rundown of SPF facts and myths.

As mentioned before there are many different SPF formulas so it is important for you to find a formula that fits. The formula that you use will likely change with the seasons and that’s ok. I think it’s important to normalise changing SPF as part of a wider skin regime which likely changes too. As you can probably imagine, I spend a large proportion of my time educating clients about wearing SPF. Asking anyone to do something without explaining why doesn’t usually help with compliance. I also seek to educate for another major reason and this is because wearing SPF is one of the pillars of optimal skin health. It is not just important, it’s a necessity.