Summer Solstice: Lessons from my Southern Italian Sojourn

[I wrote this article in July 2024 so please forgive the tense]

I know I’ve said this before, but this week we are changing gears — into neutral that is, because I’m on vacation, in southern Italy, with my family. But, even that couldn’t pry me away from you dear reader. I know, I know; I have a problem. But, I think you’ll enjoy this one. This post, like my posts on the legal tech conferences, is in the style of a travel log, but with a little philosophical reflection and historical references thrown in. And, I think you’ll see the parallels I’m drawing to the greater themes happening in our present day experience.

If this sounds interesting to you, please read on…

Well, summer1 is here and it’s time to step back from the hustle and bustle of AI and the law and get some perspective. Coincidentally, as I write this, I’m sitting at a bed and breakfast in the hills of the Island of Ischia, literally getting some perspective, visually, with a view of the Mediterranean sea, Vesuvius, and removed from the hustle and bustle of Naples, which is where we visited before we got here.

If you’ve never been to Naples, it’s a feat of constrained anarchy. To paint the scene: cars and mopeds flow across its streets like lava, meaning they go anywhere and everywhere they want and sometimes cause damage, street vendors sell everything from fake Dolce&Gabbana bags to commodity souvenirs, hide at the first sign of carabinieri patrolling on motorcycle, only to set their shop back up immediately after they’ve passed, and an anonymous artist lays on the sidewalk, sketches with chalk on a large canvas a portrait, a fine work of art that most passersby casually ignore.

Ischia is only an hour’s ferry ride away from Naples, but is a world apart. The feeling here is like escaping to a tropical island: palm thatched roof, wind flutters through grapevines, church bells chime in harmony on the hour, boats draw lines across the wine-dark sea. It’s literally a breath of fresh air and just in the nick of time. It’s been two weeks my wife, two daughters and I have been hoofing it through the streets with bags in tow and staying at AirBnBs. We needed the respite of this island oasis.

So, it’s fitting that I write this now, with a little breathing room to reflect on the journey so far. There is so much history here, made tangible through places and things we can see, hear and touch. Layers of before: what’s been, who’s lived, each moment with it’s own story and emotion. It causes one to pause and recognize: our human experience is not unique although we may think it is. We use many things to separate ourselves from each other both today and over the ages: language (slang), clothing (fashion), skin (ethnicity), religion (beliefs), and technology (AI). We are but the latest chapter in the human story. All this has happened before and all this will happen again.2

Rome, the Eternal City of Man

Rome’s origin is shrouded in the legend of two brothers, Romulus and Remus, twin sons of a vestal virgin mother and Mars, the god of war. A king, fearing their claim to the throne, ordered the babies killed, but they were secreted away in a basket floated down the Tiber River. Saved by the god of the river, Tiberinus, and with the help of others, including a she-wolf who nursed them, Romulus and Remus were adopted by a shepherd who raised them as his own and unaware of their identity. Then, one day the brothers rose up together to slay the king that would have killed them and founded a new city. But, due to a disagreement about which of its seven hills to build upon, Romulus killed Remus. And, Rome was born on Palatine hill, from strife, deceit, and murder, but also from hope, love and liberation.

“[U]nderneath Rome today is ancient Rome. So close. I am always conscious of that, and it thrills me. Imagine being in a traffic jam at the Coliseum! Rome is the most wonderful movie set in the world… As was the case with many of my film ideas, it was inspired by a dream.” – Federico Fellini

Although often misattributed to Emperor Hadrian, it was first century BC poet Albius Tibullus who first called Rome the eternal city - and it certainly fits the part. Artifacts of an alternate timeline continue to live among us and are still in common use today:

Colosseum

The Colosseum, an iconic symbol of Rome, attracts throngs of visitors daily, all eager to step into the amphitheater where gladiators once battled for glory and their lives. The massive structure, with its distinctive travertine facade and innovative concrete construction, stands as a testament to Roman engineering prowess and the empire's penchant for grandeur.

But the Colosseum's significance goes beyond its architectural magnificence. It embodies the Roman policy of "panem et circenses" (bread and circuses or games), a strategy employed by the emperors to keep the masses content and distracted from the difficulties of their daily existence. By providing free grain and staging spectacular games, the rulers aimed to pacify the populace and maintain social order.

To modern sensibilities, the brutal gladiatorial contests and animal hunts that took place within the Colosseum's walls may appear barbaric and blood-thirsty. However, these violent spectacles were not merely a reflection of a more callous age; they tapped into timeless human desires for excitement, drama, and escapism. It reminds us that while times may change, the fundamental desires and drives that shape our lives remain remarkably constant.

Pantheon

The Pantheon, an architectural marvel commissioned by Emperor Hadrian in the early 2nd century AD, has stood as a testament to the enduring power of human ingenuity and the eternal search for meaning. Its iconic dome, with its central oculus open to the heavens, has drawn the gaze of visitors skyward for nearly two millennia. Originally built as a temple to honor the pantheon of Roman gods, the building's purpose evolved over time, mirroring the profound shifts in religious and cultural landscapes that have shaped Western civilization.

In the 7th century, the Pantheon was converted into a Catholic church, consecrated as the Church of St. Mary and the Martyrs. This transformation reflects the tides of change that swept through the ancient world as Christianity spread and the Roman Empire declined. The repurposing of this pagan temple into a Christian sanctuary is a powerful symbol of the adaptability and resilience of human faith, as well as the continuity of our desire to create spaces that connect us with the divine.

In the Pantheon, we see reflected back to us the eternal human quest to find meaning, to touch the transcendent, and to leave a lasting mark on the world.

Castel Sant'Angelo

The Castel Sant'Angelo, an imposing cylindrical structure on the banks of the Tiber River, has stood watch over Rome for nearly two millennia. Originally commissioned by Emperor Hadrian in 135 AD as a mausoleum for himself and his family, the building has undergone a remarkable transformation over the centuries.

In the 14th century, the Castel Sant'Angelo took on a new role as a fortified refuge for the Pope in times of danger. The building's strategic location, just outside the walls of Vatican City, made it an ideal sanctuary for the pontiff during periods of political upheaval or military threat. The addition of a covered passageway, known as the Passetto di Borgo, allowed the Pope to flee safely from the Vatican to the castle in moments of crisis, like a fortified panic room. Atop the castle stands a striking bronze statue of the Archangel Michael, his sword drawn, ready to defend the city and the Pope from any threat.

The Castel Sant'Angelo, in its various forms and functions over the centuries, embodies the human capacity for adaptation, the enduring need for refuge and continuity in the face of change, and the complex relationship between faith and politics that has shaped the Eternal City.

Sistine Chapel

The Sistine Chapel3 , a masterpiece of Renaissance art and architecture, stands as a testament to the enduring power of human creativity and the profound role that art plays in exploring life's deepest questions. Commissioned by Pope Sixtus IV in the late 15th century, the chapel's interior is a breathtaking symphony of color, form, and narrative, with every surface adorned with intricate frescoes by some of the greatest artists of the era.

At the heart of the Sistine Chapel's grandeur is its vaulted ceiling, famously painted by Michelangelo Buonarroti over a period of four grueling years. Working alone, high above the chapel floor, Michelangelo toiled day after day, on his back, his body contorted and his eyes strained, to create a monumental work of art that would stand the test of time. The frescoes that adorn the Sistine Chapel's ceiling and walls depict the grand arc of human history, from the creation of Adam to the Last Judgment.

The Sistine Chapel, in all its beauty and complexity, is a testament to the enduring human need to create, to question, and to seek understanding in the face of life's greatest mysteries.

“Rome will exist as long as the Coliseum does; when the Coliseum falls, so will Rome; when Rome falls, so will the world.” -Saint Venerable Bede, English Benedictine monk

Lesson #1: The Human Condition is Universal, But Our Individual Lens is Ever-Changing

Nowhere else have I felt that oceanic feeling, described by Romain Rolland to Freud, a limitless bond and sensation of eternity when I close my eyes, moreso than I feel in Rome. I feel connected to the countless individuals who have stood in those same spaces over the centuries. You can almost hear the whispers of people across generations, voicing the same quotidian concerns, arguments, laughter, children playing — echoes of human lives across generations, each grappling with the same fundamental questions, joys, and sorrows that we face today.

In this sense, Rome truly is the Eternal City of Man, a place where the past, present, and future converge, and where we can feel the deep bonds of our shared humanity.

The monuments and artworks of Rome, from the Colosseum to the Sistine Chapel, speak to the enduring aspects of the human condition that transcend time and culture. The gladiatorial games, brutal as they were, tapped into the timeless human fascination with spectacle, drama, and the confrontation with mortality. The Pantheon's conversion from a pagan temple to a Christian church reflects the eternal human search for meaning and connection with the divine. The Castel Sant'Angelo's transformation from a tomb to a papal fortress embodies the enduring human need for security and adaptation in the face of change.

Yet even as these monuments attest to the universality of human experience, they also remind us that our perception and understanding of that experience is shaped by the specific cultural, historical, and personal contexts in which we find ourselves. The frescoes of the Sistine Chapel, for all their timeless beauty and power, are indelibly marked by the artistic, religious, and intellectual currents of the Renaissance. The political and social realities of imperial Rome left their mark on the design and function of the Colosseum and the Castel Sant'Angelo.

In this way, Rome invites us to reflect on the complex interplay between the universal and the particular, the eternal and the temporal, that defines human existence. It reminds us that for all our shared hopes, fears, and aspirations, each of us makes sense of the world through the unique lens of our own time, place, and experience.

Sicily, A Crossroads of Cultures

Sicily, the sun-drenched island has been a crossroads of civilizations for millennia. Settled by the Greeks in the 8th century BC, Sicily became part of what was known as Magna Graecia or Greater Greece. It is the largest island4 in the Mediterranean sea; conquered by people of many ethnicities and religions, including Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Moors, Normans, French, German, Spanish and even the British, and has been called home by many more. The original melting pot, Sicily's unique identity is reflected not only in its dialect, which is peppered with borrowed words, but also in its stunning architecture, which blends Greek temples, Roman amphitheaters, Byzantine mosaics, and Norman castles; and its delicious cuisine, which combines Mediterranean staples with Arab and North African flavors.

“To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.” - Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe

Agrigento

Agrigento was a wealthy ancient city founded around 580 BC by Greek colonists from Gela and then ruled by tyrants. The Greek ruins at Agrigento are found in the so-called Valley of the Temples. I say “so-called,” because the temples are located on hilltops under a punishing summer sun. The Temple of Hera, the Temple of Heracles, and the particularly well-preserved Temple of Concordia, stand as a testament to the enduring influence of Greek thought and architecture. Agrigento was also the birthplace of philosopher - politician Empedocles, who believed that all matter was composed of four essential ingredients, fire, air, water, and earth, and that nothing either comes into being or is destroyed but that things are merely transformed.

Palermo

Palermo was founded as “Sis” (flower) in 734 BC by the Greeks’ principal rival on the island, the Phoenicians, on the western side of Sicily, but has changed hands many times throughout the ages. Sis was taken over by the Carthaginians, then passed into the hands of the Romans, who in turn were supplanted by Arab rule, followed by the Norman conquest, and finally its kingdom incorporated into modern Italy. The Palermo Cathedral, blends these influences with its Norman, Arab, and Byzantine architectural styles, and encapsulates the way different cultures can coexist and even enhance one another. The stunning mosaics, which combine Latin and Arabic inscriptions, are a powerful visual representation of this synthesis.

Syracuse

Syracuse was founded by Greek colonists from Corinth, allied with Sparta, in 734 BC and exerted influence over the entirety of Magna Graecia, of which it was considered the most important city. Cicero described it as "the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all.” Archimedes, the great Greek natural philosopher and mathematician, lived in Syracuse. His famous "Eureka!" moment, realizing the principle of displacement while taking a bath, illustrates the power of sudden insight. But such breakthroughs often come about by immersing oneself in a diverse array of ideas and experiences. Syracuse, like its sister city Palermo, has been a prized possession of a litany of empires and civilizations, from the Greeks and Romans to the Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, and Normans, each leaving their unique mark on the city's character and culture.

Taormina

Taormina, perched on a rocky ridge overlooking the Ionian Sea, has been a sought-after destination since ancient times. Founded by the Greeks in the 4th century BC on Mount Taurus, it became a favored retreat for Roman nobility. The town's ancient Greek theater, still in use today, is a testament to the enduring power of art and human expression. As you gaze out over the sparkling blue waters, it's easy to feel a connection to the countless generations who have been inspired by this same view. Taormina's winding medieval streets, lined with colorful bougainvillea and charming shops and cafes, are a reminder of the town's complex history, shaped by the many cultures that have left their mark over the centuries. From the Arabs and Normans to the Spanish and French, each wave of influence has added to Taormina's unique character, creating a place that is at once timeless and ever-evolving.

“The purity of the sky, the tang of the sea air, the haze which, as it were, dissolved mountains, sky and sea into one element—all these were food for my thoughts.” — Goethe

Lesson #2: Cross-Pollination of Ideas Is Not a Weakness, It Fuels Creativity and Problem-Solving

Sicily is a richer, more beautiful and fertile land because of its cross-pollination. The Sicilian language itself, with its many borrowed words, is a linguistic reflection of the island's diverse history. Words like "zucchero" (sugar) from Arabic (sukar, ???) and "grasta" (flower pot) from Greek. Sicilian cuisine has been enriched by the fusion of Mediterranean, Arab, and Norman influences, creating unique dishes like pasta alla Norma and arancini. The architectural wonders of Sicily, from the Greek temples of Agrigento to the Norman-Arab-Byzantine mosaics of the Cappella Palatina, demonstrate how disparate elements can combine to create the extraordinary.

Similarly, we can enrich our understanding by being open to ideas and insights from diverse sources. Also, the layering of different and sometimes conflicting styles, strategies and perspectives, can improve one’s judgment — when the sum is truly greater than its parts. In our own lives and work, by seeking out and integrating other perspectives, we can build more robust and adaptable frameworks for understanding the world and tackling complex challenges. Just as Sicily has thrived not in spite of, but because of its complex history and cultural melting pot, we too can find strength and resilience in embracing the diversity of human experience and thought.

We see this principle at work in fields as diverse as science, business, and the arts. The most groundbreaking discoveries often emerge at the intersection of different disciplines. The most innovative companies are those that foster a culture of diversity and inclusion, recognizing that a multiplicity of viewpoints can lead to more creative solutions and more robust decision-making. And the most compelling works of art are often those that blend styles, techniques, and traditions in unexpected ways, creating something wholly new and captivating.

In each of these domains, as in the story of Sicily itself, we see the power of cross-pollination and the perils of homogeneity. When we surround ourselves with people who think, look, and experience the world just like us, we limit our own growth and potential. We risk falling into the trap of group think, blind spots, and stagnation.

But when we actively seek out and embrace diversity in all its forms, we open ourselves up to a world of possibilities. For it is in this spirit of openness, curiosity, and collaboration that we can build a world that is not just more prosperous and innovative, but also more just, more compassionate, and more beautiful. A world where, like in Sicily, the unique gifts and perspectives of every individual and culture are celebrated and woven into a shared human tapestry.

Naples, in the Shadow of Vesuvius

Greek settlers founded Naples (or Nea - polis, new city) 600 years before the destruction of Pompeii. Mount Vesuvius is the volcano whose pyroclastic flows destroyed Pompeii, but spared Naples, even though the two are roughly equidistant. (Mount Vesuvius has erupted at least 50 times since then.) Thus, uncertainty, chaos and creative destruction were seeded in the DNA of Naples. And, for millennia, people have made their homes in the shadow of Vesuvius, building and rebuilding in the wake of countless eruptions, natural disasters, wars, and epidemics.

Naples has sustained foreign occupations by the Normans, the Spanish, the French, and the Austrians, among others. Each of these occupations brought new challenges and uncertainties, but also new influences that shaped the city's unique culture.

The Neapolitan Plague of 1656 claimed an estimated 1,250,000 lives. The plague also left its mark on the city's artistic heritage, with ex-voto offerings and memento mori sculptures in Naples' churches serving as reminders of this dark chapter.

Naples suffered through 200 air raids by the Allies from 1940 to 1944 during World War II. Yet, in the aftermath, the resilient Neapolitans rebuilt their city and their lives amidst the rubble. This period also saw the rise of Neorealism in Italian cinema, with films like Vittorio De Sica's "The Gold of Naples" (1954), starring Sophia Loren, capturing the grit and humanity of the city's post-war struggle.

Earthquakes have regularly reshaped the city's architecture over the centuries. In May 2024, a series of 160 earthquakes in the region prompted evacuations and school closures. Naples' location and geology make it prone to these natural disasters, with over 93% of its municipalities at risk of landslides, floods and/or coastal erosion.5

Despite the chaos and uncertainty, Naples has endured and even thrived. The city's rich artistic and musical traditions, from the haunting melodies of Neapolitan song to the intricate Nativity scenes crafted by artisans in the Via San Gregorio Armeno, testify to the indomitable creativity of its people.

It's a powerful reminder that, even in the face of the most daunting challenges, the human spirit finds a way to endure and, against all odds, to create beauty.

“Vedi Napoli e poi muori!” “See Naples and die!” - Local Origin Unknown

Lesson #3: Chaos Breeds Uncertainty, But Fosters Resilience and Reveals Hidden Beauty

The beauty of Naples is inextricably linked to its chaos, resilience, and complexity. The crumbling facades of ancient palazzi stand alongside vibrant street art, while the narrow, winding streets open up to sweeping vistas of the Bay of Naples. It's a reminder that beauty often emerges from the most unlikely places, and that resilience is itself a form of beauty.

As you savor a slice of authentic Neapolitan pizza, consider the centuries of culinary tradition and innovation that have gone into perfecting this seemingly simple dish. Like the city itself, Neapolitan cuisine is a product of adversity and adaptation, shaped by poverty and foreign influences (like the tomato that didn’t arrive in Italy from the New World until the 16th century) into something uniquely delicious.

The life and work of the philosopher Giambattista Vico, born in Naples in 1668, offer another compelling parallel. Vico's concept of the "corso e ricorso" (course and recourse) of history suggests that civilizations pass through cycles of growth, maturity, and decline, only to begin anew. This idea resonates powerfully with Naples' own history of repeated destruction and rebirth.

As you walk the streets of Naples, these layers of history are palpable. In the faces of the people, in the stones of the buildings, in the very air you breathe, you can feel the accumulated weight of centuries of struggle, resilience, and enduring beauty. It's a powerful reminder of the human capacity to overcome even the greatest challenges, and to find hope and meaning in the most uncertain of times.

Closing Thoughts

I am struck by the profound lessons this ancient land has to teach us about the human experience.

In Rome, the Eternal City, we see the universality of the human condition laid bare. The monuments and artworks that have endured for millennia speak to the timeless hopes, fears, and aspirations that unite us across the ages. Yet they also remind us that our perception of that shared experience is always filtered through the lens of our own time, place, and personal context. It is this interplay between the universal and the particular that gives richness and texture to our lives.

Sicily, the crossroads of civilizations, teaches us the power of diversity and cross-pollination. Just as the island has been enriched by the many cultures that have left their mark, so too can we find strength and creativity in embracing a multiplicity of perspectives. When we open ourselves up to new ideas and experiences, when we seek out the unfamiliar and the challenging, we expand our own potential and build a more vibrant, adaptable world.

Finally, in Naples, a city that has endured centuries of chaos and adversity, we see the indomitable resilience of the human spirit. Even in the shadow of Vesuvius, Neapolitans have found a way not just to survive, but to create beauty in the most unlikely places. Their story reminds us that it is often through struggle and uncertainty that we discover our deepest strengths and forge our most enduring legacies.

As I prepare to leave this magical place and return to the hustle and bustle of my daily life, I carry these lessons with me.

They are a reminder to seek out connection and common ground, to embrace diversity and change, and to find beauty and meaning even in the face of chaos. For it is in doing so that we tap into the timeless, transcendent aspects of what it means to be human. And it is in this spirit that we can build a new world that, like the enduring monuments of Rome, the vibrant mosaics of Sicily, and the resilient heart of Naples, will stand the test of time.