Summer in Hvar - the island of Sun and Wine

After a long wait, summer started yesterday. It brought, I guess, untold happiness to the Northern Hemisphere. Irrespective of financial or political trials and tribulations, many nations forget about global warming, increasing crime rate or their inabilities to make the ends meet when the summer starts its magic, warm, salty and almost poetic innuendo…

Hvar, that breathtaking gem nestled along Croatia's coastline, had been my refuge on numerous occasions. Once upon a time, I made the bold decision to allocate the entire month of June to immersing myself in the island's very soul. Embracing a routine that involved luxuriating under the sun, plunging into the crystal-clear waters, savoring their exquisite wines, and observing the tourists in their quests, I found myself forging a profound connection with the island's pulsating heartbeat.

To put things into a proper perspective I can very roughly state that the island Hvar is a stretch of land 50 km long and 10 km wide which is perhaps one hour and half by ferry away from the biggest Dalmatian city of Split. There are three distinct big parts of this island that may deserve your further attention (in addition, of course, to many other attractive micro locations):? The City of Hvar, The Old City (Stari Grad) and Jelsa.

The City of Hvar commands the greatest price tags and is already strongly connected with a handful of global celebrities who firmly put it on a map as one of their charming hangouts and playgrounds. This fact is reflected with the much higher prices and a different vibe of a cool fancy place for mostly well-to-do. The city plays its leading role in a charming way with a few top restaurants, hotels and the amount of history attached to it that is not easy to digest without a serious effort. Just a few kilometres ‘inland’ and one can see a string of charming little villages and relief showing a very rich history of Hvar. Here are just a few examples: Malo Grablje - an uninhabited village just 3km from the City, beautifully protected and hidden from potential pirates or unwanted guests. Hopefully, very soon it may be turned into a lovely ecological village. A short drive off the beaten track is Velo Grablje with a small population, yet a postcard-like charm of a hilltop beauty in the heart of Hvar island.

There are places where lavender was grown, then vines. Figs or olive orchards could be seen almost everywhere. And stones. Seas of stones. Throughout the centuries stones were cleared from the scarce pieces of fertile arable land. They were grouped in a certain wall-like structures and kept aside on the spot primarily due to following reasons: to prevent erosion of the soil, especially on many island’s slopes, as the easily accessible valleys could be found only at an area of the island called Ager. That is a UNESCO-protected great field that Ancient Greeks cultivated and divided in a way that fascinates a modern man, taking into account the means and methodologies they had at their disposal many centuries ago.?

The highest peak of the island is St. Nikola (Nicholas) 622 meters above sea level. I found a little ‘office’ there permanently populated by an observer whose only task is to report fire if it appears anywhere on the island. Every 8 hours a new observer will show up and the circle continues every single day. Temperatures could be very high in the summer and depending on the wind fires could pose a very credible danger to the island, so this matter is taken very seriously by the locals.

From the pinnacle of Hvar’s vantage point, a mesmerising panorama unfolds, revealing the majestic vineyards gracing its southern inclines. Here, in places like Sveta Nedjelja and Ivan Dolac, lies the sacred homeland of Plavac Mali, the undisputed monarch among Dalmatia’s red grape varieties.

The Old City (Stari Grad) is a piece of heaven with a nice marina displaying old stone houses and narrow streets one can only find in the Mediterranean dreams. The Old City used to be the most important strategic spot here, yet it lost that status to the City of Hvar many centuries ago. I felt some resentments still going on, and this is quite natural for a fiery Dalmatian mentality where passion and dedication are often mixed with supreme hospitality and a touch of jealousy and at times remarkable stubbornness. I guess that was a required mix to survive on the scorching sun and next to the rough seas.? One can see the grandiose stone houses, museums, and many small outlets, mushrooming in the summer and offering various things to curious visitors: from great food and wine to artifacts and souvenirs…

And the third part where I spent most of my time this June is a tiny seaside town of Jelsa. It has all the imaginable charm of the Mediterranean, as it once was. First - a harbor that is a few meters away from the main square where the key actions unfold themselves every day. I was usually waking early and from my terrace watching a first ferry for the neighbouring Bra? island leaving the harbor at 6am. The surface of Adriatic seas was an open canvass - I could have noticed all shades of blue and even green. The abundance of Mediterranean vegetation surrounding the sea should be blamed for that. Any family looking for peace and quiet to bring kids in and teach them to swim and fall in love with the sea could comfortably bring their precious offspring here. Scents of pines and a variety of herbs follow you wherever you go. Except for gentle changes of high tide and low tide the surface of the sea is virtually still. Hvar is well-known as a place with the biggest exposure to sunshine in this region. Hence the odds are great that you may have a perfect summer here whenever you show up, from mid-June to mid-September!

And wine! This is another story, but in a nutshell, with some 15 producers, most of which are members of the Hvar Winemakers Association, the options are endless. Red variety called ‘Plavac mali’ (in English ‘Little blue’) rules unchallenged on the southern slopes of the island. You can also find here ‘Darneku?a’ - an indigenous red variety and a string of international varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah - recently introduced to the island. Yet, great white wines could be found from the grapes grown elsewhere. The key white varieties are indigenous Bogdanu?a (in English ‘God-given’), Par?, Mara?tina (Rukatac) and the King of Dalmatia white grapes Po?ip - already giving great results here.

With so many places to eat tasty local food, with great wines available virtually at any corner, wine tourism developing at a fast pace, perfect climate and so many outstanding cultural offerings, Hvar is truly the island of Sun and Wine that eagerly awaits your visit dear wine lover. And not only yours! The welcoming Dalmatian spirit is poised to embrace visitors, ensuring their comfort and happiness. I wholeheartedly recommend this delightful destination to anyone seeking to immerse themselves in the Mediterranean way of life at its finest.

?