Striking a Balance: Ecotourism vs Over-Commercialisation in Cebu, Philippines

Mabuhay, fellow sustainability enthusiasts! Having recently returned from a short adventure holiday, I've been thinking about a hot topic in the world of travel and sustainability: the fine line between ecotourism and over-commercialisation.

Join me in exploring the captivating island of Cebu, Philippines, known for its breathtaking snorkelling with whale sharks, thrilling canyoning in waterfalls, and mesmerising scuba diving. We'll also touch upon the challenges of typhoons and erosion, which threaten the delicate coral reefs and other tourist attractions. Let's dive right in!

Snorkelling with Whale Sharks in Oslob

Upon landing at Mactan-Cebu Airport, we headed straight for Oslob on the Southeast of Cebu, an approximate 4-hour drive to the launch point for the?highly anticipated experience of snorkelling with whale sharks.?

How is it that this place practically guarantees the daily sightings of normally elusive whale sharks, a highly migratory species?

It turns out that the local fishermen feed the whale sharks with krill, originally to lure them away from the fish they were trying to catch. Over time this conditioning led to reliable appearances by juvenile whale sharks and inevitably created Cebu's number one tourist attraction with easily 2,000 visitors on an average day! Whilst it provides a significant source of tourism income, it is also highly controversial as it creates possible injury due to contact and behavioural modification, altering migration patterns and disruption of natural eating habits.

The overcrowding was a shocking sight. When we arrived at 6:30 am to check in, we were greeted by a winding queue of eager tourists waiting for their designated time slots. There were already 20 bankas - those double outrigger canoes - floating in the water, each accommodating approximately 10 tourists. This translated to a staggering presence of around 200 snorkelers at any given moment during their 30-minute sessions, lasting for over 6 hours until mid-day, every day.

Guides in single canoes feed the whale sharks, luring them just metres from the swimmers for that surreal up-close experience.

Whilst it was lovely to check off what could well be a once-in-a-lifetime experience off my bucket list, I had mixed feelings about the whole set-up and left wondering about the long-term implications on the whale sharks. Still, it was amazing to see and swim with these beautiful, gentle giants.

The Sardine Run in Moalboal

The next stop was Moalboal on the Southwestern side of Cebu, famed for its sardine run and turtles.

I read that Typhoon Odette devastated many of the coral reefs in Moalboal in 2021, a double whammy for the local tourism industry already reeling from the impact of the pandemic.

Indeed, the shoreline was pretty dead, but on the upside, the sardine clouds were visible within a mere 50-100m right from the shore, ie no additional boat ride was required. We even saw a turtle in the house reef right off our hotel's front yard.

The accessibility of the attractions meant that people showed up in the hundreds. It was common to bump into other snorkellers underwater and hear the excited chattering of voices above the water.

It is estimated that Cebu's coral reefs have experienced a decline of approximately 70% due to factors like climate change, destructive fishing methods, and water pollution. This emphasises the urgent need for sustainable initiatives and responsible tourism practices to protect and restore these invaluable marine habitats.

It was heartening to learn from local dive masters that the Department of Tourism?actively engages with local government units (LGUs) and dive stakeholders to protect, conserve and rehabilitate marine resources. The Coral Aggregation Program, for example, is one such initiative that brought together more than 150 professional divers who volunteered to be part of the intervention measures to speed up nearby Pescador Island's coral recovery after it was impacted by?Typhoon Odette.

I was also relieved not to hear any explosions from dynamite fishing, which I had previously experienced whilst diving in neighbouring Bohol island in the early 2000s.

Chasing Waterfalls in Alegria

Just two weeks before the holiday after flights had been booked, I received notice that Kawasan Falls, the most popular Cebu canyoneering destination, was being closed temporarily by the provincial government due to safety issues - hazardous debris from the aftermath of Typhoon Odette and abandoned structures including sprouting metal rods were lurking in the lagoons. Alas, such timing! But then again, I was glad the authorities took a clear and uncompromising stance to prioritise safety over tourism revenue.

Fortuitously, my research on alternatives led me to discover numerous other waterfalls and canyons within a two-hour drive from our Moalboal base. How blessed Cebu is with the abundance of such natural attractions. I signed up for five in total - Tumalog Falls, Inambakan Falls, Wonderfalls, Aguinid Falls and Dao Falls, each with a very distinct personality and its own unique charm.

If I had to pick my favourite, it would have to be Wonderfalls in Alegria. Beginning with an off-road three-person motorbike ride uphill to the trailhead, it was three hours of non-stop exhilarating canyoneering down cascades, jumping off 10-25m cliffs, swimming and floating in refreshing celadon jade green waters amidst a pristine, lush tropical jungle.

We were pooled into a group of six, and watched over by two guides, who were effectively our photographers documenting all the scenic spots and jumps. Ironically, there were no safety forms or indemnity waivers to fill out when signing up.

One thing I really appreciated was the absence of trash, which was not the case in my last outdoor escapade in Central Java, Indonesia.

Take only photographs, leave not even footprints.

Parting Thoughts

Ecotourism is clearly a catalyst for poverty alleviation in the rural economy of Cebu. My brief experiences underscored the pressing need for better management and regulations of permit systems and capacity limits, zoning and protected areas, education and awareness programs, and collaboration with stakeholders to strike a balance between allowing people to enjoy these natural wonders while preserving the integrity of the environment.

The activities can be considered eco-tourism if it is done sustainably and with the goal of raising awareness and promoting conservation. However, it can also be over-commercialisation and lead to ecological and economic problems if not managed properly.

Balancing Economic Growth and Conservation:

It's no easy feat for the local authorities to walk the tightrope between fostering tourism as an engine for economic growth and safeguarding the environment. They're faced with the challenge of satisfying the increasing thirst for ecotourism adventures while safeguarding against over-commercialisation that could jeopardise our precious natural resources. Striking that delicate equilibrium, where sustainable tourism practices harmoniously coexist with the livelihoods of local communities, remains a constant juggling act.

It's a challenge we all need to embrace, ensuring that our future generations can continue to revel in the wonders of the world's breathtaking landscapes while preserving its ecological treasures.

Have you been to Cebu? Share your insights and favourite experiences here! Have questions? Ask away.