Stories Behind Brands- HIDESIGN A Journey from Bohemian Beginnings to Global Luxury
Dr Mohan Dewan
Principal @R K Dewan & Co | Patents & Trademarks Attorney || IP Lawyer | Litigator | Adjunct Professor | Alternate Dispute Resolution Expert
Brands are more than just a name or a logo; they embody a story and a legacy that has been built over time. Behind every brand, there is a rich history and a unique set of circumstances that have shaped its identity and contributed to its success. These background stories have become an integral part of the brand, and they serve as an essential tool for building brand loyalty and connecting with customers. There are various brands that you think you know about, but do you really know them? In this series of articles, we will be telling you unknown stories behind the known brands.
HIDESIGN, a name synonymous with handcrafted luxury, has etched its mark in the global fashion landscape. This article delves into the fascinating journey of the brand, from its humble origins in the counterculture movement to its present status as a celebrated luxury label. The story of HIDESIGN is not merely about leather bags; it's a tapestry woven with threads of passion, craftsmanship, social consciousness, and an unwavering commitment to quality.
Dilip Kapur, a scholar with a PhD in International Affairs, laid the foundation stone for HIDESIGN during his time at Princeton University. While pursuing his academic interests, he also gained practical experience working part-time in a leather factory. This exposure ignited his passion for leather craftsmanship.
Upon returning to India, Kapur established a base in Auroville, Puducherry (Pondicherry). Initially, leather bag making was a hobby. A pivotal moment arrived when a friend expressed enthusiasm for his creations, offering to pay INR 300 for a bag. This unexpected appreciation fueled Kapur's entrepreneurial spirit.
With a modest capital of INR 25,000 and the assistance of a single cobbler, HIDESIGN took its first steps. The brand initially gained traction through word-of-mouth, with friends and family playing a crucial role in expanding its reach to Germany, Australia, England, and the United States. A significant breakthrough came with a substantial order from the German organization, Welthungerhilfe, which provided both financial support and market exposure.
From Counterculture to Global Recognition
The early years of HIDESIGN were marked by a rebellious spirit and a steadfast commitment to quality. The brand’s iconic bags, characterized by their clean design, exquisite craftsmanship, and use of vegetable-tanned leather, became synonymous with a lifestyle that embraced adventure and individuality.
A pivotal moment arrived when Dilip Kapur met Yves, the President of Louis Vuitton. This encounter instilled in Kapur the understanding that building a great brand takes time and unwavering dedication. Inspired by Louis Vuitton’s legacy, HIDESIGN embarked on a journey to establish itself as a global luxury brand while staying true to its roots.
Founded with a modest investment of ?25,000, HIDESIGN embarked on its journey with the initial brand name “HIDE DESIGN.” The brand's visual identity evolved when the distinctive shadowing of the word "DE" was refined into the current, unified logo. This subtle change proved to be a masterstroke. The new name, "HIDESIGN," offered a dual interpretation depending on where the emphasis was placed. Pronounced as "hi-design," it extolled the brand's commitment to high-end aesthetics. Conversely, when pronounced "hide-sign," it directly linked the brand to leather, its core material. This clever wordplay underscores the importance of creative and strategic naming for brands and businesses.
Interestingly, HIDESIGN's products first gained traction overseas. A German visitor to Puducherry (Pondicherry) placed a substantial order of 1,400 bags, a challenge given the company's limited resources at the time. Despite the initial hurdles, word of mouth among travelers to Auroville fueled the demand for HIDESIGN's handcrafted leather goods, establishing a global footprint before domestic recognition.
HIDESIGN's unique designs and premium aesthetic initially resonated more with niche retailers than mainstream outlets. However, this trajectory shifted in 1985 when John Lewis, a prominent UK department store, embraced the entire Hidesign range. The brand's expansion accelerated, with a presence in over 700 London stores by 1988, including a foray into leather apparel.
While manufacturing operations commenced in Puducherry in 1990, the Indian market remained untapped. Breakthrough came with the Castello and Crossbody bag designs, followed by the Boxy Bag, which garnered the "Accessory of the Year" award from Accessory Magazine in 1992. This accolade, presented by Princess Diana, significantly boosted HIDESIGN's global profile. Endorsements from influential figures, such as President Nelson Mandela, further cemented the brand's reputation.
Despite early international success, HIDESIGN's focus remained primarily on overseas markets. It wasn't until the early 2000s that the brand began to cultivate a domestic presence. Initially catering to niche clientele, HIDESIGN gradually gained wider acceptance and entered the mainstream retail channels.
A Love Affair with Leather
A key element of HIDESIGN's identity is its commitment to sustainable and ethical practices. Kapur's research led him to discover the exceptional quality of E.I. leather, a traditionally tanned variety produced in South India. However, the decline of this craft due to economic pressures presented a challenge. HIDESIGN addressed this by actively seeking out the remaining artisans and by championing ecological tanning practices, reviving an almost-lost art form. This commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility has solidified the brand's reputation as a leader in ethical fashion. The brand's leather tanning process, involving a 40-day soaking in wattle bark and myrobalan seeds followed by a rub with pungam oil, is a testament to its dedication to preserving traditional craftsmanship.
Furthermore, HIDESIGN's attention to detail extends beyond leather. The brand employs solid brass buckles, expertly crafted by artisans in Indian temple towns. This revival of the brass casting and polishing tradition reflects HIDESIGN's unwavering commitment to perfection. Moreover, HIDESIGN has been instrumental in empowering marginalized communities. By employing skilled artisans and cobblers, the brand has not only created employment opportunities but also has contributed to social upliftment. These combined factors—a commitment to craftsmanship, sustainable practices, and a distinctive design aesthetic—have contributed to HIDESIGN's evolution from a small-scale venture into a globally recognized luxury brand.
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HIDESIGN'S Marketing Strategy: A Blend of Heritage and Modernity
HIDESIGN'S marketing strategy has been a delicate balance of preserving its heritage while adapting to the evolving consumer landscape. The brand's early focus on counterculture markets laid the foundation for its rebellious image. However, as it transitioned into the mainstream, HIDESIGN adopted a more sophisticated approach.
The emphasis on craftsmanship, sustainability, and social responsibility has been at the core of HIDESIGN'S marketing communication. The brand has effectively leveraged storytelling to connect with consumers on an emotional level. Campaigns that highlight the journey of the leather, the skill of the artisans, and the brand's commitment to social causes have resonated with a discerning audience.
In 1999, HIDESIGN made its much-anticipated entry into the Indian market, catering to? ?an affluent clientele seeking luxury without the exorbitant price tags of foreign brands. The brand quickly gained popularity among Indian consumers, many of whom had encountered HIDESIGN during their travels.
Overcoming cultural and ethical challenges associated with leather products in India required clarity and transparency. Kapur emphasized that HIDESIGN sourced leather exclusively from by-products of the meat industry in countries renowned for their livestock farming, such as South Africa, Brazil, Uganda, and New Zealand.
Initially, building a distribution network proved to be challenging. HIDESIGN circumvented this obstacle by establishing its own retail outlets, beginning with Delhi and Bengaluru. While domestic sales initially constituted a small fraction of the business, India rapidly emerged as the brand's primary market, with women forming the majority of its customer base.
To maintain its design edge, HIDESIGN engaged an Italian designer Alberto Ciaschini in 2004. Strategic partnerships with industry giants like Louis Vuitton and the opening of a flagship store in Puducherry solidified HIDESIGN's global presence. Over the years, the brand's product line expanded beyond leather goods to include sunglasses and footwear.
HIDESIGN'S commitment to craftsmanship is evident in its extensive product range, featuring meticulously handcrafted items from travel bags to accessories. The company's emphasis on contemporary, functional designs, coupled with its use of high-quality, vegetable-tanned leather, has been instrumental to its success.
With a robust distribution network encompassing exclusive stores, wholesale outlets, and a thriving online presence, HIDESIGN has achieved substantial growth. Collaborations with Disney and the Future Group have further amplified the brand's appeal, while its dedication to women's empowerment is reflected in its workforce composition and philanthropic initiatives.
HIDESIGN'S journey exemplifies a successful blend of artisanal heritage, contemporary design, and astute business acumen.
Eco-conscious Ethos
Kapur's deep-rooted commitment to environmental stewardship is evident in every facet of HIDESIGN. Recognizing the potential environmental impact of leather tanning, the company has adopted eco-friendly practices. By eschewing harmful chemicals and pigments in favour of traditional vegetable tanning, HIDESIGN minimizes its ecological footprint. Rigorous wastewater treatment and waste management protocols further demonstrate the brand's dedication to sustainability. Beyond its operational practices, HIDESIGN actively contributes to environmental conservation through initiatives such as forest preservation and wildlife protection.
The company's eco-conscious ethos extends to its physical infrastructure. The HIDESIGN factory embodies sustainable architecture, incorporating environmentally friendly materials and design elements. Surrounded by natural water bodies, the facility contributes to groundwater recharge and filtration.
While traditional advertising channels have taken a backseat, HIDESIGN has effectively leveraged digital platforms to connect with its audience. The brand's online presence has been instrumental in fostering engagement and promoting environmental awareness. Initiatives such as the "Art of Reuse" contest have successfully amplified HIDESIGN'S sustainability message. Furthermore, the company's collaboration with the Indian Institute of Science underscores its commitment to innovation and exploring alternative, eco-friendly materials.
HIDESIGN'S journey has been marked by numerous accolades, recognizing both its business acumen and its dedication to sustainability. Awards such as the AAAI Best Ad Campaign, Shoppers Stop's Pinnacle Award, Ritz Audi Icon Award, and Images' Most Admired Fashion Accessories Brand have solidified HIDESIGN's position as a leader in the industry.
HIDESIGN: A Global Luxury Brand
HIDESIGN'S journey from a small Indian brand to a global player exemplifies resilience and adaptability. The brand's expansion into markets like the United Kingdom, the United States, Russia, and Malaysia has been fueled by its unwavering commitment to quality and its ability to resonate with diverse cultures.
The brand's focus on creating products that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing has been a key driver of its success. HIDESIGN'S bags are not just accessories; they are statement pieces that reflect the wearer's individuality and sense of style.
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DESIGN MANAGER at Maral Overseas Ltd.
6 个月Brand is built, only when it becomes popular among consumers. But hidesign has no respect for its customers and the service.
Notary, Government of India
6 个月??