Stitching Trust: Transparency Beyond the Checklist Factory Inspections.

In the complex world of fashion, where trends change in the blink of an eye, the plight of isolated garment workers often remains obscured, their voices drowned out by fear. Yet, organisations like us, Justice In Fashion (JIF), understand that supply chain transparency goes beyond routine inspections and reports. It hinges on trust, community connections, and hearing the workers themselves.

Supply chain transparency and accountability audits require building relationships with employers and workers for maximum effectiveness. In communities where garment workers are isolated, and workplace exploitation is prevalent, there is a significant risk for these workers to speak up. They fear scrutiny from their community members, resulting in scepticism towards agencies that want to engage with these communities.

Workers' experiences reporting physical or financial abuse vary. Some are successful, while others are not heard. Often, workers must go to multiple agencies for help. Due to repeated issues of distrust over time caused by not receiving support, these individuals choose not to trust, resulting in a lack of confidence in the agencies that are trying to help them, as outlined in the quotes below:

"I have an outstanding ￡4000 within my previous factory; I have contacted my boss and manager many times, but they don't answer me. We have contacted HMRC and GLAA. Nothing happened. That factory is still operating with a different name. I have contacted HfJ and showed them all the evidence; they are working with GLAA. They told me they would let me know the outcomes. However, nothing has happened yet". [1]

"My Furlough money was outstanding, and I got it after a long time. If there is a system that factories can follow, people don't have to beg them for their wages and outstanding money. They need to be answerable to someone—or one body where we can report. HMRC and GLAA are not good. They never come back to us or anyone else. Many people, including myself, have reported to them. They need to take their job more seriously and give results to the public who rely on them. They say report to us, and then don't do anything". [2]

Our community engagement efforts in Leicester were initiated with a bottom-up approach and a focus on human connection. Justice In Fashion put in repeated efforts to engage with the garment workers' community in Wesley Hall, Leicester, for several months. Gradually, the workers started trusting our engagement activities and opened up about the issues they were facing in the workplace. They were in need of external help to resolve their problems.

We strongly believe that the issues garment workers' of Leicester reached out to JIF for solutions would go unnoticed by authorities during an ordinary spot check or an unannounced supplier visit conducted by any organisation.

Resolving deeply rooted modern slavery issues and unethical workplace practices is an issue that goes beyond factory visits solely achieved by communications with suppliers and factory owner reports. As JIF, we have had many alerts from whistleblower reports over the years, thanks to our trusty communication with Leicester industry garment workers.

There have been whistleblower reports telling undocumented workers not to come to work when there is an "unannounced" factory visit. Other reports included a garment worker hierarchy within the same supplier factory where one racial background was held above the other by means of both pay and physical abuse. [3][4]

Many whistleblower reports we encountered over the years have proven that Leicester needed the involvement of an organisation where suppliers, workers, and other industry bodies could be heard equally. Hence, JIF has been actively involved with the Apparel & Textile Manufacturers Federation since its founding stages, where we can continuously support Leicester's ethical and humane garment supply chain.

As we reflect on the journey of Justice In Fashion and their dedicated engagement with garment workers in Leicester, it becomes evident that change is possible, even in the face of deeply ingrained issues like modern slavery and workplace injustice. By prioritising human connection over bureaucratic procedures and by valuing the insights of whistleblowers, we have not only shed light on hidden problems but have also actively participated in creating a fairer and more ethical industry.

The challenges may be immense, but the resolve to overcome them is even greater.