Step Back in Time to TALAKADU: A Town with Fascinating History

Talakadu is a historically important place because it used to be the capital of the Western Gangas for a long time. It is located on the banks of Cauvery River in the Mysore district of Karnataka. It has been on my mind to visit Talakadu, one of the richest places in history, replete with legends and archeology.

A brand new cozy car was hired, and we set off bright and early on weekday morning to drive to Talakadu. A meticulous plan gives me a better understanding of a journey, so we stopped for breakfast around 8.30 AM at MTR moments restaurant at the beginning of Kanakapura Road. It was very good food and a beautiful moment and the weather was just right. After crossing Kanakpura locality, the landscape turned into an ode to the countryside. Amidst beautiful lotus ponds, temple tanks, quaint village huts, and scattered hamlets, we traveled through green countryside. A 140 km drive from Bengaluru through Malavalli en route to Talakadu takes us to this sleepy and historical town.

On the banks of the Cauvery,Talakadu is a haven for tourists, including spiritualists, archaeologists, and history lovers, as its history spans from the Western Ganga rule of the 4th to the 10th centuries CE to the modern Wadiyar era. Talakadu was the capital of Gangas for a long time (for around 500 years). Cholas ruled here later, followed by Hoysalas, Vijayanagara Kings, and Wadiyars of Mysore. This place has a lot of interesting legends associated with it. A once flourishing and vibrant city, Talakadu has been buried by sand dunes and has become a forgotten ruin.

Our first stop was Cauvery River beach since we had been told Talakadu's riverside was a must-see. We walked along the sands between the eucalyptus groves to the water and rented a coracle (a large floating basket) for a trip in the Cauvery. On the banks of the river, there were mounds of sand that looked like beaches. In my eagerness to see the ancient temples, I left to be at the sites of nearby ancient temples excavated from sand dunes - attracting many historians, archaeologists, as well as tourists.

We visited the Vaidynatheshwara temple first, built in granite stone during Chola king's reign in 14th century. Among the five Shiva temples excavated, this is the largest and has escaped the avalanche of sand dunes and is still intact. It was built in the Dravidian style and features exquisite carvings and intricate workmanship. Several structures were constructed later under Vijaynagara kings, and some features were added by the Hoysalas.

Talakadu's roots are in the story of twin hunters Tala and Kadu. According to legend, the brothers cut down a tree after seeing wild elephants worship it and discovered it contained an image of Lord Shiva. Seeing the tree bleeding, they applied the leaves to heal the wound. After this incident, Shiva became known as Vaidyanatha and the temple became known as Vaidyanatheshwara. There are two stone idols of these two brothers in front of this temple. There are five Shiva temples here: Vaidyanathaswara, Maruleshwara, Arkeshwara, Pataleshwara, and Mallikarjuna, which have been excavated and open to visitor through walking on sand, while there are believed to be 30 temples under the sand.

About half a kilometer away from Vaidyanatheshwara temple complex, we visited Kreetinarayana temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, built by the Hoysolas in 1116 CE to celebrate Talakadu's victory. Stone inscriptions, pillars, and scattered stones can be found all over the place, and according to the local guide, a major renovation was done in the year 2000. This is only one Hoysala temple in Talakadu, constructed in soapstone, with an 8-foot tall idol of Vishnu. A steep sand dune can be seen from the platform of Keerthinaryan temple, while archeologists are still working on many areas.

There is a tale that has fascinated the locals and everyone in the region, which is known as The Curse of Talakadu. There are many temples buried under sand in the town even today, a mini-desert, and this is believed to be a curse of the Queen (of Vijayanagara king) Alamelamma in early 17th century. This is why it's quite strange to find sand dunes on the riverbanks of a place like this. It's also a captivating sight to see, and the dunes here shift with the wind.

The origin of Talakad's desert remains a mystery to this day. A lot of people still believe that it was caused by the curse of Queen Alamelamma. However, there are scientific reports suggest a geological process. A group of archeologists believes volcanic activity in the region played a role, while another school of thought attributes it to the changing course of the Cauveri River over time. In its somewhat varied versions, the scale of destruction of some of the affected temples can only be explained by the incidence of high magnitude earthquakes.

A game of hide and seek continues between science and myth/ legend. In the end, only the tale of the curse seemed to have endured.

With every trip you take, you gain new information that not only enhances your knowledge but also provides an advantage over things in life. A trip to Talakadu is not just a pleasure for its breathtaking landscape, but it is also a humbling experience for those who are curious about its ancient temples nearby. Talakadu is an amalgam of medieval folklore and ancient mythological legends with rich history and cataclysmic geographical turmoil.