Stella! I loved the Big Easy

Another Bucket List item checked. And it didn’t disappoint.

I just completed my first hosting tour of New Orleans. Since I didn’t want to go alone, I thought it would be great fun if I went with some likeminded ladies, and I wasn’t disappointed.

I can now admit I was a wee bit apprehensive after putting this soft adventure together. Although everyone I spoke with who had actually visited New Orleans loved the city, television was telling me otherwise. Be on the lookout for shady characters roaming Bourbon Street just waiting to pounce on middle aged women. And don’t forget about all those muggers, beggars and charlatans. Utter nonsense! At no time did I feel unsafe. Quite the contrary – I had an overall feeling of well being. Really!

When creating a tour, the hotel you choose can make or break a vacation. Taking into account the ages of my all-female participants, I wanted to be close to all the amenities so walking would not be exhausting, but not too close to the action to be overwhelming. This being my first time in the Big Easy, I was a little nervous about choosing just the right accommodation. Much to my delight, I believe I chose wisely. Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street couldn’t have been a more perfect location. The streetcars run up and down Canal Street (2 blocks away) and Royal has an excellent choice of shopping for antiques, collectibles, fashion and browsing through art galleries. Lots of free entertainment at Jackson Square and the magnificent St Louis Cathedral were two blocks away, Court of Two Sisters was four, and Bourbon one. And by the way, the blocks in the French Quarter are very short. The waterfront was also just a matter of a few minutes stroll away. Perfection!

Forget about all that pre-trip investigating into where to find the best food, drink and entertainment. Indeed, all that preparation actually can make for poor choices. Everything you need to know can be found by just asking the locals. Several of the bellhops / doorpersons / concierge pointed us in the right direction for the best jazz and delicious restaurants. And while riding alone (yes, alone) on the streetcar to the New Orleans Museum of Art, I saw a variety of restaurants outside the French Quarter (makes a difference in the price). A few days later our little group hopped on the streetcar and hopped off when we saw something we liked. That easy. And when our own directions failed us, everyone was friendly and ready to give us a hand.

I spend an afternoon by myself touring the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA) and the adjacent Sculpture Garden. I wandered for a personal record of five hours (which is why I do these things alone). It was glorious. I saw Renoirs and Picassos and two paintings by one of my favorite artists – Eugene-Louis Boudin. Bucket List item – check!

As a working host, I didn’t partake in all the fun activities with my ladies. I limited my evenings to working on my iPad in my lovely suite. I never did get a seat at Hotel Monteleone’s famous revolving Carousel Bar but sat at a nearby table and enjoyed a glass of wine, a terrific jazz ensemble, and watched the tourists get a little wobbly on the Carousel. I checked out the roof top swimming pool and bar, and was surprised to find a peaceful oasis.

Our first full day included a private City and Estate Tour. The bus held 13 (with just eight of us, we had room to spread out), was new, extremely comfortable and air conditioned – an absolute necessity. We spent four hours being entertained and educated by our tour guide/driver Ellen. Her stories and wit had us engrossed and giggling. Ellen expertly guided us through the city, St Louis cemetery, Lake and Garden Districts. We stopped for coffee and beignets (decadent but a must) at City Park, and continued on to tour the Longue Vue Mansion and Gardens. This was probably the best half day tour I’ve ever experienced.

Two days later we were at it again touring the Oak Alley and Laura Plantations. The only downside I can think of is the long drive to and from the plantations. Jenny, our driver/guide, did her best to keep us entertained with her extensive knowledge but I found myself dozing on the drive back from our busy day. Both plantations were well worth visiting and I was surprised to find that many of my facts concerning plantation life were incorrect. I purchased Laura Locoul Gore’s bookMemories of the Old Plantation Home and am looking forward to reading the “true” stories of southern plantations rather than the Gone with the Wind version. The slave quarters were a sad reminder of man’s inhumanity to man but history is what it is. Best to learn from and not repeat. Of course, one of the surprise highlights of our tour was being accosted by a torrential downpore that had us pinned down in a roofed shelter half way between the main house and the slave quarters. With no letup in sight, we eventually had to make a soggy run for it between thunderclaps. A little unexpected adventure.

The best view of the Oak Alley plantation is the main road looking up towards the house through the multitude of oak trees. Many of these magnificent trees date back to the 1700s,  with their branches, dripping with Spanish moss, spread out and literally touching the ground.

Moving back to the French Quarter, the Court of Two Sisters jazz brunch is not to be missed. This is included in most tours of New Orleans for a reason. You are seated in a lovely courtyard under a canopy of vines and branches, birds flitting about hoping for your crumbs, and a wait staff that anticipates your needs before you do. And the food! Never have I experienced a more sumptuous, expansive buffet in my life! I only wish I’d starved myself for a day or two before going. You could eat forever! And the wonderful jazz trio played at just the right volume to complete the perfect ambience.

MY TIPS:

~Book your airport transfers online or over the phone. They depart every half hour, reasonably priced and the service very efficient.
~Take your allergy medicine with you. I left mine at home with my cat. The oak trees had my eyes itching mercilessly.
~The sidewalks in the French Quarter leave much to be desired. Uneven bricks, cobblestones missing, and gaping holes make it necessary to watch your step and wear comfortable walking shoes.
~Pick up a can of Cafe du Monde chicory coffee to bring home. You can buy this anywhere so you don’t need to stand in line at this popular coffeehouse. Yummy!

Want help planning your trip to the Big Easy? Give me a call and I’d be happy to design your trip of a lifetime.