State of the Union: Fashion + Footwear 2024

Just over three weeks ago, I found myself in Paris; coincidentally coinciding with the ongoing Men's Fashion Week where leaders of the industry's new collections were unveiled and displayed. Being abroad during a fashion week was a true goal of mine – one I wrote down initially in 2018. This experience motivated me and inspired me to return to many fashion weeks in the future, to work them rather than view them from afar.?

Paris is one of the world's leading fashion capitals regardless of whether it is Fashion Week or not. After visiting, I always take away inspiration from styles observed on the street. However, this visit was different than other times I have explored Paris. The fashion that embodies the culture of the city was even more deeply revealed.?

Collections are unveiled over the week with every label getting the deserved spotlight for their respective seasons. The day following the show, pieces from the new collections can be seen in the storefronts, with brand-new displays and sales associates ready to walk the consumer through the new creative directions and themes of the new season. The turnaround time from runway to retail was a huge surprise for me, but being able to touch the products after seeing them unveiled the day before was a highlight for me. Seeing the craftsmanship and detail in person provides an undefinable appreciation for the art of luxury goods. While most of these products are unattainable for me at the moment, my passion for these products does not waver, only amplified more as I continue to pursue a career exploring the evolving medium of luxury products, specifically footwear. It is with this passion in mind that I embark on the endeavor of writing this article, intending to dissect and share my perspectives on the fall/winter collections of prominent fashion houses while also sharing my trend forecast from research on the ground and on the internet. As a graduate student in Sports Product Management, I bring a unique lens to this analysis, exploring the intricate interplay between athleticism and luxury in contemporary design. While my opinions are subjective, I invite discourse and debate, eager to contribute to the ongoing dialogue surrounding the evolution of fashion and sports. Through this endeavor, I hope to spark conversations that transcend boundaries, uniting enthusiasts and professionals alike in their shared admiration for the artistry of fashion.

I was traveling as part of my education with the University of Oregon. I am a graduate student studying Sports Product Management and in mid-January, we traveled through London and Paris highlighting the intersection of luxury and sport while hearing from industry leaders from some of the world's top sports brands. Some great connections were made and expansive amounts of esoteric knowledge was disclosed.?

Having spent time in New York, San Francisco, London, and Paris in the last three months, I was able to do plenty of ethnographic research on market trends, and what people are wearing, and have formulated my forecast. Some trends are new and may take a while to take effect, while others are growing exponentially and are evident in today's culture.

In the dynamic realm of fashion and lifestyle, a myriad of trends is poised to redefine our collective aesthetic sensibilities and cultural narratives. From the resurgence of classic materials like leather and fur to the bold statement of animal prints, there's a palpable embrace of timeless elegance and untamed individuality. Practicality and style converge seamlessly with the prominence of boots and hiking-inspired attire, reflecting a desire for adventure and resilience in both fashion and life. Meanwhile, the blurring of boundaries between luxury and streetwear is evident as prestigious brands venture into the realm of sneakers, signaling a shift from high-class snobbiness to inclusivity and accessibility.?

Workwear staples like Carhartt are undergoing a process of "luxification," bridging the gap between functionality and fashion while paying homage to heritage and authenticity which can be seen with Marni and Sacai collaborations. Traditional notions of gender are undergoing a transformative shift, as fashion embraces fluidity and diversity, fostering a culture of acceptance and self-expression. Nostalgia intertwines with innovation as archival heritage is revived, offering a timeless connection between past and present. Unconventional textures and sensory experiences continue to add a tactile dimension to design, challenging norms and inviting exploration. In the digital sphere, social platforms are embracing audiovisual experiences, transcending linguistic barriers, and fostering creativity through music and imagery. Central to these trends is a resounding commitment to sustainability and ethical practices, reflecting a growing awareness of environmental and social responsibility. As we navigate all of these currents of change, let us embrace these trends not merely as fleeting fads but as reflections of our collective evolution towards a more conscious and harmonious existence, where style meets substance and innovation meets integrity.

We were fortunate enough to spend the morning with Gary Aspden and Adidas, the curator of the Spezial line. A legend in his own right, he preached authenticity when it came to creating products that represent a brand. Adidas has seen a tremendous surge in popularity recently due to the care and thought put into every aspect of the brand. In an industry flooded with constant collaborations, Adidas remarkably continues to build tasteful collaborations, continuing ongoing relationships with artists and designers that fit the values of both the brand and its consumers. These collaborations are made to satisfy the consumers who have been loyal to the brand rather than an attempt to bring in new customers. Adidas has leaned into what originally made it great, diving into the archives to reposition its brand. From a performance standpoint, the Adidas brand continues to innovate as displayed by Jerry Lorenzo and the basketball division working in Los Angeles.?

Working simultaneously with Fear of God Athletics and as creative director for Adidas Basketball, Jerry Lorenzo has created a basketball footwear disruption with the release of the James Harden Vol. 8 and the Debut Anthony Edwards signature sneaker. With a futuristic design language and evident theme, the brand marketing has taken off. The success of the designs combined with the charismatic nature of budding star Ant Edwards, the basketball division is stirring up waves within collegiate, high school, and recreational basketball. Signature shoes from any brand have struggled in past years, but the team at Adidas is working on the renaissance of the on-court performance sneaker.?

In a differing strategy, Devin Booker and Nike are launching a signature shoe campaign that is playing on nostalgia and leaning into the history behind Booker’s upbringing, career, and famous silhouettes and colorways he loves. The shoe is also designed to look less like a performance sneaker and instead a lifestyle shoe. The colorways based on historic sneakers or moments pay homage to the rich history of Nike, in the theme of a book, if you will. Both Nike and Adidas acknowledged that performance basketball footwear has taken a step back within fashion circles, but are moving in differing strategies to revamp the off-court appeal. With the imminent release of both shoes and well-executed marketing plans, it will be interesting to watch how the market reacts.

During my time in Paris, I was fortunate enough to be invited to attend ROA hiking’s showroom for their Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. The experience was incredible, truly something I’ll never forget. A brand with such a unique and distinct design language, every bit of the collection layout, and feel of the space was on brand. Incense was burning in the background while records were being mixed as the ambiance. The organic clothing displays were crafted with natural trees as columns and rebar as the hangers. An Italian brand emerging from the valleys between the Alps of Italian South Tyrol, with the purpose of passing between home, workshop, and mountainside, the space embodied the collection and helped the pieces come to life. ROA looks to use experimental crossover techniques to reflect a hybrid attitude toward the outdoors. With a sportswear attitude, they craft outdoor footwear and apparel. The avant-garde materials and innovative construction techniques were evident through growth from season to season and seeing the new collection in hand. The season is beautiful, with the brand building on its classic silhouettes as well as expanding even further. The footwear introduces some amazing materials and textures while the apparel quality and textiles left me wanting everything in the collection. This brand is quickly growing and with the expansion of hiking core, they are positioning themselves to be a dominant player in the sector.

Upon arriving I quickly found the Creative Director, Patrick Stangbye, and began to pick his brain. The most important takeaway was the idea of happy mistakes and how they can benefit the production of new pieces. Getting the first sample back from a factory and seeing it constructed not exactly as you envisioned it can sometimes be a blessing in disguise. The factory may have found a new way to construct and use a material that was not included in the tech pack but in the end, can be beneficial and actually may make more sense for the product. At a small company like ROA, this is critical for multiple reasons. The first is the skill of the factory partners to craft something that possibly would not have been developed. Next, sustainability and lead time can be affected in positive ways. The prototype can become a sample quicker and lead to fewer revisions. From an emissions standpoint, there is less time traveling whether by air or freight, as well as less material used in the production of prototyping and sample runs. Another key learning from my discussion with Stangbye was the idea of inspiration and an archival approach to design. Being truly versed in the history of creation can help the mind spark innovation and ideas. Sourcing and bookmarking images of product will help build a portfolio of success that can be drawn from while creating new product. Taking inspiration from all mediums of creation is essential as well. Innovation is sparked by a need for something new, but inspiration from historical work can be a launching pad for creation.

Let's step into high-luxury fashion and attempt to dissect some of the creative directors and their visions in the new collections.?

Kicking off fashion week in an elegant fashion, Louis Vuitton unveiled a cowboy-inspired heritage collection imbued with refined signature branding. From the turquoise buttons, and made-in-USA cowboy boots to the magenta speedy bag, the first show of the week set the bar extremely high and was a defining moment for Pharrell as a Creative Director. Playing into the ever-rising trend of workwear and reinvigorating a Western core, the collection followed a clear theme, and the craftsmanship is clearly articulated in the details. Accessories are a highlight as well, with many new colors introduced onto old and new silhouettes. As the Louis Vuitton factory in Texas begins to establish itself, the nods to American style and craftsmanship are evident in the design language.?

The LV collaboration with Timberland is further confirmation of the reinvigoration into relevancy for the long-standing official boot of New York City. Elevating classic models while simultaneously integrating new models, the LV footwear team in collaboration with Timberland did a fantastic job bridging the gap between blue-collar boots and fine luxurious details. Veneda Carter also recently did a Timberland collaboration adding a glossy finish to the timeless wheat and black colorways. Timberlands never fade away in the realm of trends, but are certainly seeing a surge in popularity thanks to both their inline products and special collaborations.

A brand directly from Paris, Kenzo was a standout both in the city and in the news because of Nigo’s direction this season. The brand was everywhere, from locals’ and tourists’ clothing to department stores, and billboards throughout the city. Nigo’s influence is evident throughout the collection, as they celebrate the year of the dragon, luxurious workwear, classic graphics, and unique pieces. Colors and materials stand out in the collection, and the Bape influence can be seen throughout. History seems to keep repeating itself as we see Pharrell and Nigo once again influencing and leading the fashion sphere. To see them grow from streetwear to luxury is inspiring and an attribution to their genius. Going from Bape and Billionaire Boys Club to the Creative Directors of high fashion brands, none of this would be possible without the intersection of luxury and streetwear that has occurred since the 2000s. Entertainment and athletics have fostered a relationship with luxury which has allowed for cross-pollination for celebrity figures to truly influence fashion.?

Fashion genius remains which can be shown through the work of Kim Jones and Dior. With a giant Lazy Susan acting as the runway, Jones and the team at Dior displayed a collection highlighted with vibrant collections while continuing to lead the way in luxury footwear. Much of the apparel in the collection has a theme of convergence of rebellious tradition. Diving into the archives of past leaders of the brand, the silhouettes are reinterpreted and modernized with displays of color harnessed through the oblique construction and craft of the esteemed brand. Dior continues to innovate through 3D printing and other manufacturing techniques, constantly remaining evolutionary while reminiscing on the looks that built the ethos of the house. The footwear team at Dior continues to mesh luxury with technicality seamlessly. The collection features skate shoes, hiking boots, loafers, and ballet flats showing a range of innovation with fine craftsmanship. Footwear designer Thibo Denis continues to push the luxury boundaries when it comes to textiles and a range of footwear. The ballet flats highlight the femininity of the brand while the hiking boots are outdoor-ready, ready to be tested in the elements. Meshing performance with luxury will continue to take off and Dior is on the very front lines. As luxury takes a small step back on its formality, the more casual collections bring in a new consumer who may have always had a fascination for luxury goods but did not necessarily fit into the stuffy formal connotation that luxury has had.

Rick Owens opted to host his latest collection in his own home. Named after his hometown, Porterville, California, the collection was characterized by Owens as a reflection of "a judgmental community," with memories of "intolerance." The showcase featured striking inflatable boots by Straytukay and ensembles of exaggerated proportions, which Owens described as "grotesque and inhuman," serving as a visceral reaction to societal shortcomings. Despite this, within his Parisian sanctuary, the collection brought the usual discourse and allure that most Rick Owens collections create. The brand continues to build a position that is mysterious and captivating. The intimidation of the techno music blaring in the stores, and the proportions that come with many designs help the label build animosity all while growing a cult following.?

Bottega Veneta continues to enhance its ascension into stardom through superb design, and rebellious marketing campaigns. Continuing with themed collections, the resort collection that debuted in September 2023 continues to push leather in ways that have never before been manufactured. There are also references to cowboy core, another example of the ascension of the trend for both Bottega and Louis Vuitton. The marketing campaigns highlighted by A$AP Rocky and Kendall Jenner allowed paparazzi to do the photo shoots for the brand, while dressed from head to toe in Bottega.?

Vivid colors and textiles continue to theme Creative Director Matthieu Blazy’s work as well as archival pieces from the brand’s history and chapters of Blazy’s career. The inspiration for the collection stemmed from a nostalgic journey home, where Blazy found himself rummaging through his childhood wardrobe. Delightful recollections surfaced, such as the crab print dress his sister once donned, which now serves as the muse for a sophisticated sweater and coordinating skirt. Other fond memories found their place in the collection, manifested through oversized labels adorning impeccably tailored vests. The essence of whimsy pervades this collection, evident in the exaggerated lapels and reimagined renditions of Bottega Veneta’s renowned design language, boldly presented in contrasting hues. Blazy's Pre-Spring 2024 line exudes an infectious sense of playfulness throughout, marking it as yet another standout season in his repertoire. The brand continues to push functional footwear silhouettes out, blending luxury with performance with the release of hiking boots. Outlandish designs remain as the checkered leather patterns remain the central focus of the brand. Since Blazy took over as Creative Director, the brand continues to reach revamped relevancy and transcend new heights by pushing twists on classics and expanding offerings.

Finally taking a look at JW Anderson and his creations at Loewe, as they continue to stir conversation and take home awards. Jonathan Anderson's Fall Men's Loewe show epitomized his mastery in navigating the dynamic contradictions of modern consciousness, resulting in an immensely enjoyable experience. Playful yet intricate, straightforward yet deeply philosophical, the show pulsated with an array of outstanding garments intertwined with artistic substance. The catwalk space was adorned with digital stained-glass windows, showcasing video artworks featuring Loewe ambassadors like Jamie Dornan and Josh O'Connor. Pieces from artist Richard Hawkins adorned coats, trousers, and bags throughout the collection. Jonathan Anderson described the collection as an "algorithm of masculinity" in his show notes. The ensembles exuded a sense of urgency, with coats seemingly pulled on hastily, some even featuring T-shirts dangling from within as if grabbed from a bedroom floor. Certain looks were seamlessly stitched together into singular pieces, with socks attached to shoes and pants for added unconventional flair. Every collection from Loewe seems to build off the last while holding onto unconventional ideas from Anderson.

My recent immersion in Paris Men's Fashion Week and visits to other cities have provided me with a transformative glimpse into the evolving landscape of men's fashion. From the heritage-infused collections of Bottega Venetta to the avant-garde expressions of Rick Owens, each showcase epitomized a distinct narrative, reflecting the dynamic interplay between tradition and experimentation, luxury and streetwear. Collaborations like Louis Vuitton and Timberland exemplify a fusion of authenticity with luxurious detailing, while designers such as Jonathan Anderson challenge conventions with thought-provoking collections. Interactions with industry luminaries highlighted the importance of embracing "happy mistakes" and drawing inspiration from diverse sources for innovation and sustainability. I aim to contribute to the dialogue on fashion and design, celebrating its transformative power to inspire self-expression and unite us in our quest for authenticity.