So, what’s next for Burberry? Charting the path forward for a brand in flux.
Source: Instagram @burberry

So, what’s next for Burberry? Charting the path forward for a brand in flux.

Burberry's recent struggles have been a cautionary tale for brands aiming to ascend the luxury ladder too hastily. While the brand's missteps are often attributed to poor product strategy or a lack of brand identity, a deeper analysis reveals a more nuanced picture.


What Went Wrong?

Burberry’s bid to elevate itself to high-end luxury was overly ambitious. Trying to compete with the likes of Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the brand stretched too far, too fast. Its attempt to raise its prestige clashed with maintaining a strong presence in outlet stores, sending mixed signals to consumers. Burberry’s creative shift toward a more sophisticated look also fell flat with its core audience, who still saw the brand through the lens of its iconic check pattern.

Execution missteps compounded the problem. Burberry raised prices but continued heavy discounting, undermining its efforts to appear exclusive. The push into high-priced leather goods lacked credibility, especially compared to more established luxury brands. Worse, Burberry misread market trends, leaning into avant-garde styles just as consumers were embracing "quiet luxury." Combined with its past struggles—like the overexposure of the check pattern—Burberry’s strategy failed to hit the mark.


What's The Way Forward? It's Back to Basics—But Basics Alone Won’t Cut It

It’s easy to suggest Burberry should just "go back to basics"—stick to what they know, like their iconic outerwear and scarves. And while there’s truth in that, it’s not enough. Burberry needs to reassert its strengths but evolve beyond them. The future calls for a four-pronged strategy:

  • Customer obsession: Redefine the core customer, focusing relentlessly on their needs and aspirations.
  • "Steal Like an artist": Refresh product categories by leveraging successful elements from competitors, expanding offerings to match the desires of today’s luxury consumers.
  • Pricing & positioning: Rethink the pricing strategy to align with the customer’s profile and the brand’s luxury ambitions, offering practical, investment-worthy pieces at price points that don’t alienate core customers.
  • Marketing & messaging: Move beyond nostalgia. Create visuals that showcase how Burberry’s products can fit seamlessly into everyday life, making them more relatable and modern.

We dive into these 4 strategies in more detail, focusing on the women's wear segment.


1. Who is the Burberry Woman?

Burberry’s identity crisis is most evident when trying to answer a simple question: Who is the Burberry woman? When you think of the YSL woman, you envision sleek black tailoring and daring, edgy looks. The Gucci woman? Bold, floral patterns and opulent textures. But with Burberry, the focus tends to shift to a product—the trench coat—rather than a distinct persona or aesthetic. This is where Burberry needs to reset.

It’s time for Burberry to craft a clear brand persona, centered around the modern woman’s lifestyle. Whether it’s Clara, the 24-year-old recent graduate starting her career, or Amanda, the executive mother balancing work and family, Burberry must cater to women who value both functionality and timeless style.

Illustrative brand persona chart. Source: Folasade Owoeye-Ferron

Understanding who the Burberry woman is, and what she wants in today’s fashion landscape, is crucial. Brands like Hermès, Prada, and even emerging players like The Row succeed not just because of their products, but because they know their customers inside and out.

Burberry needs to define its target demographic clearly and create products that seamlessly fit into their lives. The Burberry woman isn’t just looking for a trench coat—she wants a full wardrobe of functional, stylish pieces, from versatile work bags to outerwear in a palette that goes beyond beige. Through thorough research and customer insights, Burberry can pinpoint this target and shape their future collections accordingly.


2. Stealing Like an Artist: Learning from Competitors

In fashion, nothing is truly original. Burberry should embrace the philosophy of "stealing like an artist"—borrowing what works from successful brands. After all, in today’s landscape, everyone pulls inspiration from one another. Just look at Prada’s spin on the Gucci Jackie 1961 or Cartier’s nod to Celine’s take on the Hermès Constance. Burberry can do the same by identifying competitors' strengths and weaving them into its own product lines, creating pieces that resonate with its target customers.

An untapped area of opportunity lies in Burberry’s British equestrian heritage, which could be elevated and expanded, offering a fresh narrative over the overused Nova check. After all, there are only so many ways to wear a check print.


Illustrative moodboard highlighting top-performing categories from competitors


Burberry’s Product Line: What Works and What Needs to Evolve

  • What works: Burberry’s outerwear, scarves, and accessories are still beloved by customers. The iconic trench coat remains a hero product, but even this can be refreshed with new interpretations, like cropped trenches or trench dresses.
  • What needs to change: The brand’s venture into high-priced handbags and leather goods has struggled to compete with luxury giants like Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Burberry should shift its focus to practical, timeless pieces—think work totes, minimalist crossbody bags, and versatile occasion-wear accessories—that are positioned as stylish, functional investment pieces, rather than expensive statement items.
  • The Nova Check makeover: While the iconic check pattern can still be a part of Burberry’s identity, it should take on a subtler, more refined role. The Equestrian Knight, on the other hand, offers greater design flexibility and could become a more prominent feature. This shift would allow Burberry to break free from the limitations of the check, with the Knight emblem being used across various items (think of it on cotton Oxford shirts, similar to Ralph Lauren's polo player).



The check pattern remains a prominent feature of the brand's collection

3. Marketing for Growth

Burberry’s current marketing strategy leans heavily on its heritage, with a strong focus on the history of the Gabardine trench coat and the iconic Nova Check pattern. While this nostalgia-driven approach effectively celebrates the brand’s history, it limits its broader appeal. Beyond the trench coat, many women struggle to envision how other Burberry pieces fit into their everyday wardrobes.

To move forward, Burberry must strike a balance between honoring its legacy and expanding its offerings to ensure women see the brand as versatile and modern. When Jennifer Lawrence’s Dior photoshoot went viral for its understated elegance, she was dressed in The Row. My first thought? That should have been a Burberry moment.


Just a casual dog walk or an actual photoshoot?

Brands like Bottega Veneta have mastered this approach, embracing "paparazzi-style" campaigns, where celebrities are captured in relatable, everyday scenarios. These candid-looking moments make high-end fashion feel accessible, yet still exclusive—showing how luxury fits seamlessly into daily life By adopting this strategy, Burberry can evolve beyond its reliance on heritage and craftsmanship. Heritage is valuable, but the key question is: How does it fit into my wardrobe today?


4. Pricing and Positioning

Outlet sales account for 40% of Burberry’s global sales, significantly higher than the luxury market average of 13%. This reliance on discounted sales indicates a need to rethink its pricing strategy. The brand must either scale down prices or reposition to reduce dependence on outlets, as this approach undermines its luxury positioning. Burberry’s pricing should align with its evolving identity, focusing on offering value that reflects innovation and design.

A refined approach would include strategic discounting—limiting promotions to off-seasons or specific product lines—and using outlets to clear inventory, not as a primary revenue source. Ultimately, pricing needs to appeal to both premium customers and those seeking more accessible options, without compromising the brand's luxury ambitions.


Final Thoughts

The shifting luxury market presents a prime opportunity for Burberry to rebalance and redefine itself. The brand has overcome brand identity challenges before—like the "chav" association—and emerged stronger. This time, Burberry doesn’t need to just return to its roots, but reshape them for modern luxury.

Marketing, branding, and a carefully curated, customer-focused product portfolio are key to this evolution. Blending creative vision with commercial growth and profitability is no easy feat, but Burberry is well-positioned to strike this balance and reclaim its place at the forefront of modern luxury.

Modupe Olaniyan

Oxford MBA | Consulting | SMEs

2 个月

This is a brilliantly written piece

Lindy Firstenberg

Beauty + Luxury @ AlixPartners | Angel Investor @ Golden Seeds

2 个月

You are brilliant, Fola!! I absolutely delight in hearing your viewpoints :)

回复
Arpit (Ari) Bansal

Vice President at AlixPartners

2 个月

Great article Fola, thanks for sharing. Agree with all the areas of opportunity you highlighted, especially around connecting with today’s customer. This is a recurring challenge a number of mid market legacy brands seem to be struggling with

回复

要查看或添加评论,请登录

Folasade Owoeye - Ferron的更多文章

社区洞察

其他会员也浏览了