So, what’s next for Burberry? Charting the path forward for a brand in flux.
Folasade Owoeye - Ferron
Commercial Strategy & Transformation | Consumer Products | Retail | Luxury
Burberry's recent struggles have been a cautionary tale for brands aiming to ascend the luxury ladder too hastily. While the brand's missteps are often attributed to poor product strategy or a lack of brand identity, a deeper analysis reveals a more nuanced picture.
What Went Wrong?
Burberry’s bid to elevate itself to high-end luxury was overly ambitious. Trying to compete with the likes of Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the brand stretched too far, too fast. Its attempt to raise its prestige clashed with maintaining a strong presence in outlet stores, sending mixed signals to consumers. Burberry’s creative shift toward a more sophisticated look also fell flat with its core audience, who still saw the brand through the lens of its iconic check pattern.
Execution missteps compounded the problem. Burberry raised prices but continued heavy discounting, undermining its efforts to appear exclusive. The push into high-priced leather goods lacked credibility, especially compared to more established luxury brands. Worse, Burberry misread market trends, leaning into avant-garde styles just as consumers were embracing "quiet luxury." Combined with its past struggles—like the overexposure of the check pattern—Burberry’s strategy failed to hit the mark.
What's The Way Forward? It's Back to Basics—But Basics Alone Won’t Cut It
It’s easy to suggest Burberry should just "go back to basics"—stick to what they know, like their iconic outerwear and scarves. And while there’s truth in that, it’s not enough. Burberry needs to reassert its strengths but evolve beyond them. The future calls for a four-pronged strategy:
We dive into these 4 strategies in more detail, focusing on the women's wear segment.
1. Who is the Burberry Woman?
Burberry’s identity crisis is most evident when trying to answer a simple question: Who is the Burberry woman? When you think of the YSL woman, you envision sleek black tailoring and daring, edgy looks. The Gucci woman? Bold, floral patterns and opulent textures. But with Burberry, the focus tends to shift to a product—the trench coat—rather than a distinct persona or aesthetic. This is where Burberry needs to reset.
It’s time for Burberry to craft a clear brand persona, centered around the modern woman’s lifestyle. Whether it’s Clara, the 24-year-old recent graduate starting her career, or Amanda, the executive mother balancing work and family, Burberry must cater to women who value both functionality and timeless style.
Understanding who the Burberry woman is, and what she wants in today’s fashion landscape, is crucial. Brands like Hermès, Prada, and even emerging players like The Row succeed not just because of their products, but because they know their customers inside and out.
Burberry needs to define its target demographic clearly and create products that seamlessly fit into their lives. The Burberry woman isn’t just looking for a trench coat—she wants a full wardrobe of functional, stylish pieces, from versatile work bags to outerwear in a palette that goes beyond beige. Through thorough research and customer insights, Burberry can pinpoint this target and shape their future collections accordingly.
2. Stealing Like an Artist: Learning from Competitors
In fashion, nothing is truly original. Burberry should embrace the philosophy of "stealing like an artist"—borrowing what works from successful brands. After all, in today’s landscape, everyone pulls inspiration from one another. Just look at Prada’s spin on the Gucci Jackie 1961 or Cartier’s nod to Celine’s take on the Hermès Constance. Burberry can do the same by identifying competitors' strengths and weaving them into its own product lines, creating pieces that resonate with its target customers.
An untapped area of opportunity lies in Burberry’s British equestrian heritage, which could be elevated and expanded, offering a fresh narrative over the overused Nova check. After all, there are only so many ways to wear a check print.
领英推荐
Burberry’s Product Line: What Works and What Needs to Evolve
3. Marketing for Growth
Burberry’s current marketing strategy leans heavily on its heritage, with a strong focus on the history of the Gabardine trench coat and the iconic Nova Check pattern. While this nostalgia-driven approach effectively celebrates the brand’s history, it limits its broader appeal. Beyond the trench coat, many women struggle to envision how other Burberry pieces fit into their everyday wardrobes.
To move forward, Burberry must strike a balance between honoring its legacy and expanding its offerings to ensure women see the brand as versatile and modern. When Jennifer Lawrence’s Dior photoshoot went viral for its understated elegance, she was dressed in The Row. My first thought? That should have been a Burberry moment.
Brands like Bottega Veneta have mastered this approach, embracing "paparazzi-style" campaigns, where celebrities are captured in relatable, everyday scenarios. These candid-looking moments make high-end fashion feel accessible, yet still exclusive—showing how luxury fits seamlessly into daily life By adopting this strategy, Burberry can evolve beyond its reliance on heritage and craftsmanship. Heritage is valuable, but the key question is: How does it fit into my wardrobe today?
4. Pricing and Positioning
Outlet sales account for 40% of Burberry’s global sales, significantly higher than the luxury market average of 13%. This reliance on discounted sales indicates a need to rethink its pricing strategy. The brand must either scale down prices or reposition to reduce dependence on outlets, as this approach undermines its luxury positioning. Burberry’s pricing should align with its evolving identity, focusing on offering value that reflects innovation and design.
A refined approach would include strategic discounting—limiting promotions to off-seasons or specific product lines—and using outlets to clear inventory, not as a primary revenue source. Ultimately, pricing needs to appeal to both premium customers and those seeking more accessible options, without compromising the brand's luxury ambitions.
Final Thoughts
The shifting luxury market presents a prime opportunity for Burberry to rebalance and redefine itself. The brand has overcome brand identity challenges before—like the "chav" association—and emerged stronger. This time, Burberry doesn’t need to just return to its roots, but reshape them for modern luxury.
Marketing, branding, and a carefully curated, customer-focused product portfolio are key to this evolution. Blending creative vision with commercial growth and profitability is no easy feat, but Burberry is well-positioned to strike this balance and reclaim its place at the forefront of modern luxury.
Oxford MBA | Consulting | SMEs
2 个月This is a brilliantly written piece
Beauty + Luxury @ AlixPartners | Angel Investor @ Golden Seeds
2 个月You are brilliant, Fola!! I absolutely delight in hearing your viewpoints :)
Vice President at AlixPartners
2 个月Great article Fola, thanks for sharing. Agree with all the areas of opportunity you highlighted, especially around connecting with today’s customer. This is a recurring challenge a number of mid market legacy brands seem to be struggling with