Skin SOS: Dry Skin ingredient types and how to use them

With springtime officially beginning and warmer weather hopefully making its way in, it’s time for the final piece of our Skin SOS: Dry Skin series ??

Practically dealing with dry skin is all about understanding what skin needs and learning how to find the right products. I have learnt over time, that this can be a minefield so today is all about the simplification of ingredients for dry skin and how to use them.

All it takes is one search of the internet and you will probably find lots of information about magic creams, potions, lotions and ointments for dry skin.

The thing that I personally think is still missing from most marketing and sales is BASIC EDUCATION. Without knowledge, it’s impossible to make informed decisions. I’m here to inform you, so you can make better decisions.

As you may know from reading other articles in this series, managing dry skin can be complex. It’s even more complex if you present with other active skin conditions and the fear of dealing with chain reactions is definitely unwanted. I will be keeping it very basic with regards to groups of ingredients and how to use them. All of the types of ingredients listed below are generally classified as moisturisers, but they come in different textures and are applied topically to the skin.

Ingredient Type 1: Water

Wait, before you run away there is a really great reason for this step. Remember the bit about the balance of oil and water in one of my previous articles? The only way to ensure that you start to improve that balance is to ensure that you put water into the skin. Here are some additional tips for you when it comes to putting water on to and into your skin:

• Make sure your shower or baths aren’t too hot. Too much heat causes an immune response which causes your body to release histamine which basically causes itchy skin
• Leave your skin damp when you get out of the shower (we’ll discuss more on this further on in this article)

Ingredient Type 2: Humectants

Humectants are water-loving ingredients that draw moisture into the top layer of skin. The other function of humectants are to preserve the loss of water, and retain moisture. Humectants are great for dry skin as they ensure that water is actually drawn into the skin to hydrate and plump it. I would recommend that you apply a humectant to damp skin on exiting the shower or after washing your face. There are several ingredients that are humectants. Here are a few to look out for:

• Glycerin
• Glycol
• Urea
• Honey
• Sodium Lactate
• Panthenol

And possibly the most famous one of all…

• Hyaluronic Acid

Ingredient Type 3: Emollients

Emollients are usually lipid based, fatty acid ingredients that keep your skin soft and smooth. They also soothe the skin.

Although emollients are hugely popular with people with dry skin, I have to caution you all and say they aren’t everything.

I’m sure you’ve worked out by now that I’m a champion of balance for the skin and often there is too much of a reliance on emollients. (Remember the Diprobase discussion in my last article) Emollients are most effective in conjunction with the other ingredients that the skin need which usually includes water and humectants in varying quantities. There are several types of emollients you may have come across including:

• plant oils (ones that are high in oleic, linoleic and gamma-linoleic acid)
• shea butter
• cocoa butter
• lanolin

I’d recommend that you layer an emollient in a texture that works for you after you’ve used a humectant and allowed it to absorb into your skin.

Ingredient Type 4: Occlusives

Occlusives are not for everyone. They prevent water from evaporating from the skin’s surface and create a barrier between your skin and the external environment. Occlusives repel water and for some skin it’s too much. Their suitability largely depends on how dry or dehydrated your skin is. Occlusives are fantastic at giving your skin an opportunity to heal if you are experiencing weeping or cracking of the skin.  Some common occlusive ingredients you might find in products include:

• Mango Butter
• Shea Butter
• Allantoin
• Squalane
• Petrolatum (I still use good old Vaseline)
• Lecithin
• Dimethicone

This is just to name a few. There are several others out there. You may have noticed that Shea Butter has made an appearance twice. There is a reason for this as shea butter has both emollient and occlusive moisturising properties. This is one of the reasons why some people’s skin seems to really love shea butter and other’s entirely hate it. Shea butter is a good example of an ingredient that has multiple functions but as skin has its unique needs not all functions are suitable for every skin type.

The difference between emollients, humectants and occlusives boils down to their benefits and it’s important to keep this in mind when deciding which products to use.

Finally, I think it is really important to round off the series by reminding you of some practical advice on how to layer your moisturisers to help you combat dry skin.:

1. Water – topically get some on in the shower or bath
2. Humectant – Apply a humectant to damp skin and let it absorb. This will draw more moisture to your skin
3. Emollient – Apply an emollient to your skin next to soothe and smooth your skin. This is also the part where your skin should soften too
4. Occlusive – Layer an occlusive over your skin if your skin is very dry or is need of healing.

Layering your moisturisers will enable you to condition your skin over time and alleviate some of the symptoms of dry skin that you may be experiencing. Layering also helps to improve overall skin health and this should be the aim for each and every one of us.

Wishing you all healthy beautiful skin.

Until next time…