Quiet Luxury, a (final) recognition of the power of craft

If fashion is a perpetual restart, I am very pleased to see that 2023 is (finally) acknowledging the power of craft in all its diverse forms. Last month, I had the chance to launch a new initiative connecting traditional craft masters from Uzbekistan to the Homo Faber Guide, an international network referencing their peers worldwide. The Uzbek Chapter was a tangible celebration of the country’s long tradition of craft supported by the Uzbekistan Art and Culture Development Foundation in Tashkent.?

Craft is at the origin of design (if you allow me this very provocative shortcut). It embraces functionality and aesthetics and it brings the very best of human ingenuity. If properly used, it is a noble source of creativity but needs to be systematically challenged to avoid falling into a boring repetition of self for generations. It carries noble values like discipline, humility and provides a high level of meditation to its practitioners.?

In 2023, the fashion world rediscovered the word ‘class’ and its attribute… suddenly everyone is talking about quiet luxury… I am so pleased with this movement as i was reaching my limit of tolerance with the over opulence, extravagance and conspicuous consumption… Call me old fashioned but I much more enjoy understated elegance and subtle sophistication. I have the same approach to design applying one of the 10 principles of good design by Dieter Rahms: ‘less is more’.

Silent luxury is encapsulating a departure from ostentation and loud displays of wealth. If you live in Dubai as I do, you might be feeling immune to this but my European roots are always reminding me two quotes from fashion icons… ‘Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity’ once said Coco Chanel… echoed in 2009 by her successor Karl Lagerfeld saying that ‘bling is over…’ favoring what he called 'the new modesty.' He also joked saying?‘I'm a working-class person, working with class.’

Bear in mind that it is not because you wear a USD 3,000 cashmere jumper that you will fit to quiet luxury… class is different and should not be linked to the money you spend on clothes but a self interpretation of elevated basics.

So this new trend (featured in popular TV shows like ‘Succession’ or even ‘Beef’ this year and the cinema industry) focuses on craftsmanship, quality, and the inherent value of products and services rather than external symbols of status. This trend fosters a more understated and discreet approach, embracing subtlety and sophistication as key attributes of luxury.

I can see you smirking already… considering that the trend will pass. Yes, it may well do. Regardless, this Autumn 2023, we shall observe some deep changes in our Western-style societies! Beside the usual rich colours which will be reflected in fashion, and according to trend forecasting agencies, our end of year will witness luxurious minimalism and the return of the ‘wearable’ clothes… a paradox!!?

Consumers will look at sustainable practices, timeless elegance and experiential luxury. The latter is when consumers seek immersive and meaningful encounters rather than solely material possessions. From curated travels as we described them few months back to cultural explorations. But class is timeless and will survive any trend. It is beyond fashion and its seasons… like the little black dress…?

Few years ago, trend forecasters were seen as inspirational individuals who could predict the future by observing the society around them. Some were even seen or qualified as gurus… Li Edelkoort, one of them, is announced to return to Dubai during Dubai Design Week 2023. For sure, someone not to miss as she has always been correct in her work and predictions.?

It will also be interesting to have her view on AI as a tool to predict trends and social media. Today, it takes its source from algorithms to analyse more than 100 million images and 400 million stories shared daily on Instagram alone. How a human brain will defy hard facts and statistics to envision the trends two to three years ahead of us… I am excited to know the answer to that. In the meantime, let’s enjoy a quiet if not silent Summer, away from posting and smartphones… Remember that in France we say ‘vivons heureux, vivons cachés’ (to live happy, live hidden).

Pictures courtesy of Netflix.