Shipwrecks and a Submersible in the Solomon Islands

Since returning from the magical Solomon Islands in February, the question I’ve been asked most is “where are they?”

Although it did feel like a whole world away, this stunning group of over 900 islands is found in the South Pacific Ocean, just east of Papua New Guinea. For those that know Cookson Adventures, it would be no surprise that we were naturally drawn to the region. It’s ‘off-the-grid’ status and reputation among dive experts was all that we needed to hear.

On top of that, it’s steeped in WWII history, which you’ll only need one look at its shipwreck-scattered waters to understand. The Battle of Guadalcanal in 1942, code-named Operation Watchtower, was a six-month naval battle between Japanese and American forces that nearly claimed the life of a young John F. Kennedy. And although he survived, many others didn’t.

We quickly recognized that it would be an incredible spot for our client to dive his 7-person personal submersible. The sunken ships and aircraft were a sight to behold above the ocean’s surface during the Battle of Guadalcanal, so we were determined to know what they looked like from below, adding to our clients understanding of this historic battle within these islands.

Prior to our clients’ arrival, we conducted reconnaissance of the area by making use of an underwater mapping sonar. The benefit of this was two-fold: it helped us to locate safe and rewarding dive sites for a submersible, while also contributing to an important 3D map of the seabed. We covered areas such Iron Bottom Sound, home to the 106-metre-long destroyer named USS Aaron Ward, USS Kanawha in Tulagi Island, and HMNZS Moa, a Bird class minesweeper of the Royal New Zealand Navy.

The incredible Russell Islands also presented an extraordinary opportunity for sonar mapping of this pristine island group allowing us to safely navigate the submersible to its maximum depth of 300 metres, taking in rarely seen and isolated reef formations and majestic manta rays on our journey.

Yet an adventure to the Solomon’s would not have been complete without meeting its people, who are rarely visited by travelers.

We delicately arranged what is referred to in the local dialect of Pijin as a “story”— a conversation or negotiation with the local chiefs. At a credit to their kindness, they extended an invitation for us to explore their islands and to learn about their fascinating way of life. This included watching the villagers perform Kastom welcome dances and being shown their techniques for weaving, fire lighting, and playing instruments alongside their pan-pipe band.

The archipelago has many opportunities for avid explorers, historians, scientists and (of course) the diving community. Historically however, logging companies have taken advantage of its idyllic dense tropical rainforests. This ongoing battle with the industry has made Solomon Islanders rightfully wary of visitors and their trust must be earned. Where primary rainforests once stood, invasive coconut plantations now cover most of the archipelago’s 900 islands and atolls. Together with Papua New Guinea, they supply more than half of China’s tropical logs. One island though remains a symbol to what once was: Tetepare. 

This extraordinary island is the largest uninhabited island in the Pacific and is nearly entirely made up of primary rainforest. Its shorelines are home to saltwater crocodiles, dugongs, sea turtles, juvenile grey tip shark nurseries, monitor lizards and numerous endemic bird species - to name a few. The Tetepare Descendants Association have managed to protect the island for years against logging, retaining its status as one of the most ecological diverse places in the South Pacific region. To support TDA’s efforts, our adventure contributed funds to sustainably build a suitable location for helicopter air drops or emergency evacuation for the islands’ rangers.

By the end of it, we had delivered not only a one-of-a-kind submersible adventure for our client but together had also managed to contribute valuably to science and the local communities within the Solomon Islands. I thank those that I met out there for providing one of the most memorable experiences of my life.